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Jaymzx
03-26-2005, 12:41 AM
I`m plotting my attack on the cobwebbing and other micromarring I picked up over the winter. I`m trying to stay within the means of my budget and use what I already have.



Ideally, I`d like to pick up some #80 to use after the #83, and then go to AIO, then SG x 3, then a carnuba.



Can I use #83 with a cutting pad on my PC, then go to #9 with a polishing pad? Will the #9 be aggressive enough to remove the hazing that the DACP will no doubt create?



I also have some 3M SMR. What are the thoughts of using the SMR instead of the #9? Will the AIO remove the fillers from the SMR? I`m not big on fillers, as I`d rather remove the swirls than cover them up.



TIA

steck
03-26-2005, 01:09 AM
here we go with 3m SMR...



i actually like this stuff and use it often in my arsenal...usually after 3m PI FCRC and it does a great job after compounding so i`d imagine it would do great after the 83.



some people have had success with #83 straight to AIO. As you may know, 83 will break down to a finer polish when `worked` long enough. perhaps you could get away with a polishing pad with 83 instead of a cutting pad,,, may leave a better finish, and take away a step.

Jaymzx
03-26-2005, 01:20 AM
Good point. As the saying goes, start with the least aggressive combo and go from there. I guess more than anything I want to add some depth to the paint in addition to removing the marring.

bigpoppa
03-26-2005, 01:53 AM
I`ve never used #9, but following #83 with 3M SMR will lead to great results on a black car. :xyxthumbs

Jaymzx
03-26-2005, 03:52 AM
Looks like this should be an OK combo.



..from the `Hall of Fame` thread at http://autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14213






After u have used the dual action cleaner polish with a wool pad, I would follow up with meguiars #9 2.0 swirl remover to remove any swirls left behind or hazing created by incompletely buffing out the product. This haze is especially noticeable on a black car. Work this swirl remover in the same way as the DACP but use the white pad that comes in the kit, not the wool or yellow pad. This should leave u with a near perfect finish, dont expect all the swirls gone but a good amount of them will dissapear and the others will be diminshed.



Thats the plan, sans the wool pad :)

balty6969
03-30-2005, 10:04 PM
I bought a bottle of #9, and plan on using a polishing pad to get some minor spiderwebbing out. But I am alittle confused.. right from #9, I was going to use AIO 2x, then SG 3x, then S100. Is there a step i`m missing in between the #9 and AIO?.. I can go right to AIO from #9, correct?.



My plan of attack was this..



1. wash

2. clay

3. #9 (however many passes until webbing is gone)

3. AIO 2x

4. SG 3x

5. S100 1x



that will work, correct?.

wannafbody
03-31-2005, 12:16 AM
#9 is pretty mild and may/ may not remove everthing-if it doesn`t step up to Mothers PowerPolish for the deeper stuff

balty6969
03-31-2005, 12:54 AM
regardles of what I use though.. can I go right to AIO after it?

Alfisti
03-31-2005, 06:17 AM
jaymzx, balty6969, in my experience #9 will do very little with a PC apart from adding fillers. I find it next to useless. It seems to work better with a rotary.



I`d give #9 a big miss. SMR is better as is #80. With any of these three you can follow with AIO. The AIO *will* remove any fillers in #9 and SMR. Following #9, it`ll look like you never used it.



jaymzx, some cutting pads are very aggressive to use with #83, requiring a follow up with a polishing pad/#83, then a polishing pad/#80 (or similar) on darker colours. What sort of cutting pad are you using? What colour is your paint?

Jaymzx
03-31-2005, 12:38 PM
I`m using pads from CMA. I have their yellow cutting pads and white polishing pads. Thinking back as to what I was thinking and what I actually typed, I actually plan to use DACP with a polishing pad first, and then moving to a cutting pad if it doesn`t seem to do the trick.

I know some folks say they go #83 and straight to an LSP but I`m thinking further massage with a finer product would increase the depth on my black car. As it stands, when the sun hits it at a 90 degree angle, the paint almost looks gray in spots as opposed to true black.

balty6969
03-31-2005, 02:01 PM
I was told to start #83 with a polishing pad, then go to #80 with a polishing pad as well.. then start with whatever your going use, in my case, AIO. I`m not sure if that`s correct though.



I hope someone can chime in and say if i`m correct or not.

Alfisti
04-01-2005, 12:56 AM
balty, you have the right idea..and yes you can go to AIO straight after that.



jay, sounds like your paint needs some work to get it a deep wet black again.



Try using the yellow pad then the white with #83. Being black I`d finish off with a milder polish like IP, #80, or the new Mothers PowerPolish.



wannafbody`s advice is very good. Finish off with the new Mothers PowerPolish and it`ll burnish it up very glossy. It`ll leave a better finish than #80 (if my recent trial was reliable).



If you do use MPP you can even replace the #83/white pad with MPP/white pad and save a step, as it has some very good cutting power but breaks down very quickly to a burnishing polish and can be worked longer than any polish I know.

Alfisti
04-01-2005, 01:10 AM
balty, you have the right idea..and yes you can go to AIO straight after that.



jay, sounds like your paint needs some work to get it a deep wet black again.



Try using the yellow pad then the white with #83. Being black I`d finish off with a milder polish like IP, #80, or the new Mothers PowerPolish.



wannafbody`s advice is very good. Finish off with the new Mothers PowerPolish and it`ll burnish it up very glossy. It`ll leave a better finish than #80 (if my recent trial was reliable).



If you do use MPP you can even replace the #83/white pad with MPP/white pad and save a step, as it has some very good cutting power but breaks down very quickly to a burnishing polish and can be worked longer than any polish I know.