Make sure I`m not screwing this up

[iuksob03]

I just joined, but have been doing a lot of reading in the past few months. I bought a 2005 Obsidian Black Subaru Legacy Gt Ltd back in october and after a recent wash, noticed a little bit of swirling on the hood. I just want to make sure I have the process down to get this taken care of. I plan on using a pc 7424 in the process.

I`ve also found two decent size paint chips on the door, but am unable to deterimine whether they are deep enough to just throw touch up paint on or whether I`ll have to go through the whole wet-sanding process. Any input would be appreciated.



Here`s what I`ve got so far:



1. Wash (Eagle One Wet Car Wash)



2. Clay Magic Claybar



3. Wash and dry.



4. Meguiar`s No. 82 (Do I need something stronger?)



5. Klasse AIO



6. 4* UPP



7. P21S



Anything I`m missing?

[JasonD]

That looks good to me. #82 is a good starting point, all depending on how severe the swirls are. If #82 doesn`t cut it, try #80. What pads are you going to use?

[iuksob03]

I was looking at going with the Sonus SFX pads. Is there a better set to start with? I haven`t used the pc yet, but from what I can tell, it`s almost foolproof.

[Accumulator]

iuksob03- Welcome to Autopia!



I`d use something a little stronger than the #82, Subie clear isn`t *that* hard, but it`s hard enough that I`d start with #80 if you`re using Meguiar`s stuff. FWIW, I worked mine with 3m PI-III stuff- their RC (05933) for major stuff and their MG (05937) for lighter correction. The PI-III MG is as mild as I ever used on a Subaru and it`s quite a bit stronger than the #82.



The PC is foolproof in that you aren`t likely to do damage, but it`s not foolproof in that it`ll always solve your problems quickly and easily ;) Plan on taking a full day and have something stronger than the #82 on hand.



FWIW#2, I don`t top my UPP; I like how it looks on its own and I like to be able to add more later.



IMO most chip repairs will require some kind of wetsanding (or some other method, such as Langka- ?sp?) to really blend in. FWIW#3 I usually just let the chips go on most of my vehicles and as long as I keep things well sealed I don`t have any trouble. I`d concentrate on getting the car generally detailed for now and just keep an eye on the chips. If they`re to the metal and start to rust, a drop of rust converter will stop that and provide a primer base for touch up paint.

[cejacobs]

Thanks for the reply. I`ll have to pick up some #80 before I get started. I`ll try just the UPP for now and if it looks like it needs something else, I`ll top it. This is my first new car, so I just want to do everything right to protect the finish.



Any advice regarding the pads? I was doing a little more searching last night and saw the excel pads. Is there really too much of a difference one way or another?

[Accumulator]

Originally posted by cejacobs

Any advice regarding the pads? I was doing a little more searching last night and saw the excel pads. Is there really too much of a difference one way or another?



I haven`t used the Excel pads, but I`m confident that you won`t have any problems from them. Just use the right (polishing/finishing) one for the job.