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View Full Version : Paint Protection Film (PPF) Detailing ???`s



chef
02-17-2005, 10:39 AM
I have seen quite a bit on PPF (also known as a clear bra) lately. I was considering it for one or more of our cars but I was curious if anyone had any experience detailing a car with this applied?



Main questions are obvious:



1. What issues are there when detailing around the edges of the film?

2. Are you limited as to what you can do to the rest of the car because you can only get so much shine etc. from the areas covered with film?

3. Is there anyway to increase the gloss of the film if you go for a deep wet look on the car? Particularly on a dark car.



Thanks

togwt
02-17-2005, 10:59 AM
Q1. What issues are there when detailing around the edges of the film?

A1: Take similar precautions as to vinyl graphics or pinstripe, donâ€â„¢t go too close to the edge with polish/machine



Q2. Are you limited as to what you can do to the rest of the car because you can only get so much shine etc. from the areas covered with film?

A2: Like a clear coat finish, it will only be as good as the finish underneath, cover a well prepped paint surface with a clear paint protector and what youâ€â„¢ll see as â€Ëœshineâ€â„¢ etc is exactly whatâ€â„¢s underneath



Q3. Is there anyway to increase the gloss of the film if you go for a deep wet look on the car? Particularly on a dark car.

A3: I canâ€â„¢t think of a way for a thin 12Mil plastic to have a â€Ëœdeep wet lookâ€â„¢ other than whatâ€â„¢s been said in #2 above. I usually use a plastic cleaner to ensure that it remains â€Ëœclearâ€â„¢. Brands like ArmorGlove and 3mâ€â„¢s have inbuilt UVR protection so yellowing is not a problem





Paint protection film (Clear bra): is a pressed, polished thermoplastic vinyl (X-Pel, Amour Glove, 3M) made from an optically clear 12-Mil clear film that has been treated not to â€Ëœyellowâ€â„¢, its virtually indestructible in normal use that adhererâ€â„¢s to the cars paint surface. Available in custom, laser cut templates that are available for virtually all car models, and many parts of the car.

JonM

the other pc
02-17-2005, 01:18 PM
Originally posted by TOGWT

Q2. Are you limited as to what you can do to the rest of the car because you can only get so much shine etc. from the areas covered with film?

A2: Like a clear coat finish, it will only be as good as the finish underneath, cover a well prepped paint surface with a clear paint protector and what youâ€â„¢ll see as â€Ëœshineâ€â„¢ etc is exactly whatâ€â„¢s underneath I`m going to disagree with this one. Most gloss comes from the very top of the outermost surface. Many two-stage systems have matt or satin base coats and their gloss comes exclusively from the topcoat.





I have the film on a light green car. It`s not noticeable at a distance, looks decent but only OK up close. I`m sure it would be more noticeable on a dark car. Only had it on a few months but so far it`s been easy to maintain.



It`s a soft plastic, closer to Saran Wrap than paint. Perhaps products made specifically for soft plastics like convertible windows would be able to restore gloss. I`m betting that once it`s scuffed up it not going to buff shiny ever again.





PC.

imported_topnotch
02-17-2005, 01:29 PM
the film is a great thing, when I detail I tape all the edges with very thin painters/masking tape. This will avoid me having to remove any buildup of wax/polish on the edge of the bra. The other day it actually saved my bumper when a hup cap jumped off of a car and hit right over the front license plate, this saved me from having to repaint the front bumper, all I did was remove that piece and install another sheet on the top half of the bumper. Well worth it in other words

togwt
02-17-2005, 01:56 PM
Originally posted by the other pc

I`m going to disagree with this one. Most gloss comes from the very top of the outermost surface. Many two-stage systems have matt or satin base coats and their gloss comes exclusively from the topcoat.





I have the film on a light green car. It`s not noticeable at a distance, looks decent but only OK up close. I`m sure it would be more noticeable on a dark car. Only had it on a few months but so far it`s been easy to maintain.



It`s a soft plastic, closer to Saran Wrap than paint. Perhaps products made specifically for soft plastics like convertible windows would be able to restore gloss. I`m betting that once it`s scuffed up it not going to buff shiny ever again.





PC.



the other pc-and their gloss comes exclusively from the topcoat.



TOGWT- and what youâ€â„¢ll see as â€Ëœshineâ€â„¢ etc is exactly whatâ€â„¢s

underneath





OK we`ll agree to differ then

chef
02-17-2005, 10:29 PM
OK, it seems that in general you guys like the stuff and the ideas about how to deal with it are great, never would have thought about the tape.



However, what I am still trying to ascertain is how the area that is covered will look against a really well detailed area.



I do understand that you want to prep the area as best as possible; I`m thinking clay and then polish the areas to be covered (along with the rest of the car obviously) to make sure the finnish is as flawless as possible before you apply it. The of course you need to make sure there nothing on the application area when you apply the film. So how does this are then compare to the rest of the car which then gets glazed and waxed or sealed? Especially on the hood where the film only covers the front of the panel.



I guess I am just worried that you spend the money for the film and then you think the area looks like s**t compared to the rest of the car. Any ideas or experiences? Good and bad of course.



Thanks

Eliot Ness
02-17-2005, 11:01 PM
Here is a thread with pictures where Anthony Orosco installs an Xpel (clear bra) on a 2005 Silver Porsche GT3. Many of your questions may be answered here:



http://autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=50038