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View Full Version : First try with PC and DACP



Goleafsgo
01-08-2005, 06:37 AM
I just tried out DACP with my new PC for the first time last night. I`ve only worked on one half of the hood so far.. it already looks way better than what I could do with #7 and NXT by hand. I made about 4 passes with DACP so far and some spots had all of the swirls removed while they are still there for some other spots.



It takes awhile though to remove the majority of the swirls. I don`t think I`m using the right pad though, I have the Propel blue pad which is described as a light polishing pad I think. Would there be a big difference if I had a Meguiars polishing pad instead? Or does DACP usually take awhile to remove swirls even with a polishing pad?



I`m also trying to decide what to use last. I wanted to use #80 after getting done with DACP, but my order hasn`t came in yet. So I`ll just be using Vanilla Moose after. Then I have NXT, S100 or #16.. I don`t know what I`ll use yet.

Setec Astronomy
01-08-2005, 08:46 AM
As has been mentioned in the past here, serious defects may be beyond the capability of the PC, being either too deep to remove altogether, or requiring a rotary buffer.



Even if you have defects that are removable by PC, they may take some time. A more aggressive Propel pad may help, such as the green, orange (new this morning), or yellow. But if you look at some other DACP posts, you need to work in small sections, and dwell long enough on these sections.



To paraphrase Mike Phillips from Meguiar`s, when he gives hands-on training with the PC, he says new users always do the following: "They run the polisher at too slow of a speed, They don`t apply enough pressure to the pad, They move the polisher over the surface too quickly"



So, the short answer is, yes, it takes some time, even with DACP.

REX-RACER
01-08-2005, 09:22 AM
Originally posted by Setec Astronomy



To paraphrase Mike Phillips from Meguiar`s, when he gives hands-on training with the PC, he says new users always do the following: "They run the polisher at too slow of a speed, They don`t apply enough pressure to the pad, They move the polisher over the surface too quickly"



So, the short answer is, yes, it takes some time, even with DACP.



That`s interesting.



I`m sure it`s something that people get frightened into because they don`t want to screw anything up.



I`ve heard all sorts of horror stories about people who "burned" their paint or clearcoat by using too much pressure, going too long in one spot or running the buffer at too high a speed. As a noob I know this something I`d be deathly afraid of . . .

Setec Astronomy
01-08-2005, 09:45 AM
Originally posted by REX-RACER

I`ve heard all sorts of horror stories about people who "burned" their paint or clearcoat by using too much pressure, going too long in one spot or running the buffer at too high a speed. As a noob I know this something I`d be deathly afraid of . . .



Those sound like rotary buffer stories...pretty hard to do any real damage with a PC.

Eliot Ness
01-08-2005, 09:48 AM
^^^^^ What Setec said^^^^^ his advice is right on :xyxthumbs



The blue pad is a fairly mild pad, the green is closer to what I think the Meg`s polishing pad would be, the orange is a good light cutting/polish pad, and the yellow is a medium cut pad.



I wouldn`t bother working DACP with anything less than the green pad, and for problem areas I`d go to the orange. If you`re new to this I`d make more passes with the green or orange before trying the yellow until you`re more familar with how the process works.



You may have to follow DACP with something milder like #80 on a green or blue pad if there is any hazing. Sometimes you do, sometimes you don`t. All depends on the paint, color, and how aggressive a pad you use.



Patrick has carried the blue and grey pad for quite some time, but the other colors are fairly new, so this is how I`d rate them for product use:



- Yellow: medium cut pad for stubborn defects you can`t remove with the orange pad after several passes.

- Orange: a good light cutting/polish pad that has more bite than the green, but less apt to leave hazing.

- Green: your general purpose "go-to" polish pad

- Blue: a light polish pad good for pre-wax cleaners or fine polish like AIO, etc.

- Grey: a finish pad to apply waxes/sealants

REX-RACER
01-08-2005, 09:48 AM
Originally posted by Setec Astronomy

Those sound like rotary buffer stories...pretty hard to do any real damage with a PC.



Hmm . . . thanx Setec. That takes some of the pressure off. :up



Good break down of the pads E.N. I really needed to know that as I`ve been a bit confused by the different color. :confused:



:xyxthumbs :bow

Goleafsgo
01-08-2005, 03:22 PM
Thanks for the suggestions. Now that I think about it, I probably did move the PC a bit fast over some of the sections. The swirls on my car aren`t too bad, I`d say they`re moderate. I think I`ll go get one of the Meguiars polishing pads to try out today though, I`m sure that will help

jvcn
01-08-2005, 03:41 PM
Gotta say that those were the mistakes I was making. I was shown by Brad the mod in person that the only thing to do with some swirls is to go so slowly with the PC and DACP that you think you`re purposely "burning" the paint. But you`re not, and that`s what it takes to get some swirls out. Although you might then need to followup with an SMR to get rid of the marring.

imported_UnsanePyro
01-08-2005, 09:14 PM
I`m picking upa PC soon, and wondering about this. I understand you may need to spend more time on some spots then others, but, you want to be in constant motion, right? Never stop in one spot, even if it is just a small amount back and forth, correct?

Goleafsgo
01-09-2005, 05:25 AM
I went out and bought a Meguiars polishing pad this afternoon. It made a big difference in helping to remove swirls quicker. I ended up removing the majority of the swirls but not all, I took about 2 hours to go around the whole car. I would say its at the point where I should be able to go back in a few months with #80 and be able to have a swirl free finish. I didn`t want to remove them all now anyway.. there is likely still a lot of snow and junk that`ll end up putting some more swirls into the paint over the next few months.



The PC was really easy to use too, I`d say there is nothing to worry about after using it with DACP.. from what I`ve read before I expected it to cut through the swirls like they were nothing. It didn`t really seem to be an aggressive combo to me after trying it out yesterday