SG Removal Question

[CTDiesel]

I applied SG in an even thin coat then intended to allow the SG to cure overnight. Well, several things came up and I wasn`t able to get back to it until more than 24 hours later. At this point it was dusty enough that I didn`t trust QD to remove the dust safely so I washed it with two ounces of GC soap in two gallons of water. When I finshed, all evidence of residue was gone with the exception on one small area where the SG was applied a little too heavy.



My question is; did I remove the SG completely? I always measure the exact amount of soap, and I`m absolutely positive on the amount of GC and water used. Is GC incompatiable with SG?

[jimmybuffit]

Whoa there, big guy! The amount of shampoo/water is is ALMOST irrelevant to sealant applivcation..



What you did is probably fine. Qd the entire car.



Jim

[CTDiesel]

I only mentioned the shampoo/water because it was used on the surface that still contained the residue of SG that had not yet been removed from the day before. Yet after the wash, the SG residue was gone as cleanly as if I had used a MF towel to remove the dry residue as is normally the case.

[imported_Burlyq]

Tools to have handy to remove SG (residue): blow torch, arc welder, sand blaster, or Dampen Applicator with SG. One of these will work.

[beastie]

I have left a layer of SG on my car before it got caught in the rain. The rain did take off most of the residue and all I had to do was QD. I actually think that washing is a good way of doing 2 things at once: removing SG residue and getting the car clean.



I`ve had my car in the garage for the last week and a half. I did the full treatment on it. I`ve been applying several layers of SG on it and I`ve been treating the whole process as a learning experience. I`m trying different applicators, removal methods, QD sprays, microfiber towels and various lenghts of time that I let SG cure (from WOWO to the classic 24 hr wait). Unfortunately, it has been an unscientific process where temperature and humidity are not controlled factors even though it was inside a garage. The only really sure outcome has been thinner is better. That said, even relatively harder to remove thicker application areas were buffed off without much stress by using any combination of a longer cure time, waffle weave towels or QD sprays. Towels that work good at buffing the paint didn`t seem to fare as well as WW towels in taking of the residue although using a QD helped them. I tried Meg`s Quik Detailer, Eagle One Wet Wipe N` Shine and Clay Magic Lube as QDs. I was surprised at how well the Clay Magic Lube worked but I think the Meg`s QD gave me the best finish.



As an aside, I have a 16oz bottle of SG. I have applied about 15-20 coats of it on several cars and I must at least have 13 oz left.

[Bill D]

Originally posted by Burlyq

Tools to have handy to remove SG: blow torch, arc welder, sand blaster, or Dampen Applicator with SG. One of these will work.



He he, if you really do need to remove it apply a water:isopropyl alcohol mix or probably even better, as I do, a solvent like Prep All

[Corey Bit Spank]

Originally posted by Burlyq

Tools to have handy to remove SG (residue): blow torch, arc welder, sand blaster, or Dampen Applicator with SG. One of these will work.



I have never had a problem with SG and hazing.:nixweiss

[Accumulator]

Originally posted by ram

I washed it with two ounces of GC soap in two gallons of water....My question is; did I remove the SG completely?



Yeah, you`ll be fine; you probably did *not* remove any of the SG except the excess that you would`ve buffed off. The tiny bit of SG that actually bonds to the paint will still have done that and one wash with GC won`t be enough to strip it.

[imported_Burlyq]

Originally posted by Corey Bit Spank

I have never had a problem with SG and hazing.:nixweiss

I was just funnin. Everytime recently I`ve used klasse it is worth the effort!