Show car glaze

[Dave Pickett]

I have had really good results using speed glaze with the porter cable 7424, and I now want to try the show car glaze.



My method of working is to spread the glaze over the panel at lowish speed, 2 -3 then buff out with the PC on 5 and a half. I assume this will be the same with show car glaze?



The real question is, what can I top scg off with, I have in my cupboard:



poorboys ex (I like this)

NXT

Gold Class

DC3

#20 polymer sealant



Or is scg meant to be left bare? My cars mainly have to live out, so I would like some protection

[White95Max]

Meg`s #7 Show Car Glaze is a great product for a very wet looking finish. It is a PITA to remove though. You definitely need several MFs if you don`t have them already.



You would have to top it with something without cleaning properties, which would remove the #7.

So rule out NXT and Gold Class. I`m not sure about the DC3.



EX and #20 would be OK to top it off with.



#7 is only left bare on show cars where the owner is not concerned with protection, but only the wet-looking finish. It does not provide any protection for the car, so you must top it with a wax or sealant.

[Dave Pickett]

I have heard that taking the scg off in stages helps, ie wipe the worst of it off then leave it and let it go off again, then wipe again.



waiting for some decent weather now, when i tried it first i gave uo coz it is a pita to remove as you say. thought applying with the pc may help?

[jfelbab]

Originally posted by White95Max

Meg`s #7 Show Car Glaze is a great product for a very wet looking finish. It is a PITA to remove though. You definitely need several MFs if you don`t have them already.



You would have to top it with something without cleaning properties, which would remove the #7.

So rule out NXT and Gold Class. I`m not sure about the DC3.



EX and #20 would be OK to top it off with.



#7 is only left bare on show cars where the owner is not concerned with protection, but only the wet-looking finish. It does not provide any protection for the car, so you must top it with a wax or sealant.



Removing #7 doesn`t need to be a PITA. I apply to a couple panels then wipe off the excess with a 100% cotton towel. A final buff with a quality MF and it`s done.



Actually, NXT tops #7 just fine. NXT does not remove all the TS oils and the oils don`t interfere with the NXT crosslinking. I`ve used this combo on my MR2 since NXT became available and the look is drop dead wet. The minor cleaning action in NXT doesn`t remove the TS oils, at least not all of them and the appearance is definitely wetter looking than NXT alone.



Here is a shot of the hood with this combo.



http://homepage.mac.com/jfelbab/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/2004-10-23%2010.39.29%20-0700/Image-CC526F3A251911D9.jpg



And this is what the whole car looks like.



http://homepage.mac.com/jfelbab/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/2004-10-23%2010.39.29%20-0700/Image-CC51C434251911D9.jpg

[Dave Pickett]

Just one word



WOW!!!!



Thanks for the response....makes my efforts look very humble



do you use a machine for the scg and nxt?

[White95Max]

I also used #7 and NXT on my car last winter. It did look to me like it was wetter than the NXT alone, but I figured it was all in my head.





The MR2 looks beautiful! :xyxthumbs

[imported_wblynch]

On my Rio Red `97 Mustang, the #7 made the color look deeper and stronger under the NXT.



That particular car has single stage paint so there may be a difference with a BC/CC car.

[jfelbab]

Thanks for the compliments guys. I apply and remove #7 and NXT by hand.



I use the PC for applying #83, #82 or #80 but for #81 or #7, I always hand apply and remove. It`s like therapy.



As mentioned by a prior poster, #7 or #81 needs to be sealed in using a pure wax or a sealant.



Other pure wax product that work well over #7 or #81 would be #3 Carnauba in the Megs consumer line and numbers 16 and 26 in the Professional line.

[petraidm]

I would use EX if you have a dark car.



I always apply my Liquid products with the PC. It may be a waste of material (i.e. so much wasted in the pad) but I can control the "thickness and eveness" of the the product much better with the PC.

[Accumulator]

If you want to do a little searching, Mike Phillips has posted a pretty-definitive writeup on using Meg`s #7.

[Alfisti]

Don`t say I never do anything for you. :D



Click here (http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23740) for #7 tutorial by Mike Phillips.