I hate you all!!! Kidding need some help

[Wildland]

First off I wanna say that I hate you all, I thought I was the most anal person when it comes to detailing , and now I realize I was doing alot of this incorrectly! So after lurking for a few weeks and reading everything I could I went ona mission tester day and picked up the following:



PC 7336

vecro backing plate

3 8006 megs pads

2 9006 megs pads

clay bar

nxt car wash

3m perfect it fine cut

3m perfect it SMR

megs #9

Megs # 7

NXT tech wax

Megs Quick detailer

and microfiber towels



ok that being said after 2 days of test on the wifes honda (black purplish mica)



I found these steps to work , what do you guys think



1 wash

2 clay

3 wash

4 pc with 3m fine cut @ spped 5 with 8006 pad slow arm movements and some pressure

5 pc with 3m SMR @speed 4-5 with 8006 pad , slow arm movements and light presure till material dissappeared

6 pc with megs #7 with speed 3-4 with 9006 faste arm motions

7 pc with tech wax x2 withh speed at 3-4 w/9006 pad and faster motions covering serface 2xs

8 check car for wax smudges and buffed with megs Quick Detailer





ok so now for the questions!!!!HELP PLEASE



Do I need other products?Are mine compareable to say :



3m Fine cut= Megs #80

3m SMR= Megs# 83

are these products compareable or way different?



I am like everyone else wanna get rid of swirls light scrathes and have deep paint!



I can get ALL the 3m and Megs products locally which I prefer!



The reason I am asking is these megs products seem to be widley used here on Autopia, and you guys are the Pro`s



I have to say i wasnt to pleased with the PC at first beacause I was so paraniod about burning throught the paint that i wasnt getting the swirls out I was getting frustrated, but then I read some more here and applied some pressure and raised the speed and didnt move so fast and VIOLA the swirls started to come out with the fine cut.



Theis all started because my new F-250 came off the lot with etched water spots and swirls and I want to get them out without screwing up my 50k truck, And I dont want some deteail kid armed with a rotary killing my paint. so here I am!!!



SO about the hating thing, I was only kidding I want to say THANK YOU ALL!!!!



I FOUND MY PEOPLE!!!!!



I hate when people dont take car of there cars, it frigg`n kills me!

[Wildland]

Anyone?



Hope I did`nt offend with the title....I thought it would catch the eye versus "Newbie with questions post"...

[dcswd]

welcome!



I dont think you offended anyone with the title for your post :D A lot of members on this board are on the east coast... so they are all sleeping as we are up reading lol.





Im not too familiar with the 3m line :( But you are fine with sticking with 3m and Megs.



Here is a listing that might help you out a little bit. http://autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=36208&highlight=abrasive+scale

Remember that this isnt a perfect list, and that it is highly dependent on how you are using the product and what the weather might be like around you but it should help a bit.





Hope this helps

[imported_liam]

yep welcome!! this site is an eye opener the first time you come on hey!

[Wildland]

That helps a great deal! Thank You... Good I dont have to get another product, it looks about the same.....

[Don]

Originally posted by dcswd

welcome!



I dont think you offended anyone with the title for your post :D A lot of members on this board are on the east coast... so they are all sleeping as we are up reading lol.











He`s right, I`m just now up getting ready for work

[jimmybuffit]

Yep, I`m leaving for work quite soon.



3M SMR has fillers, which hide the micromaring that it doesn`t remove. I would think the



M-07 Show Car Glaze (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_detail.cfm?sku=M-07)



http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/images/product_m07.gif



would do the same job, without fillers, so you may be duplicating your work. Additionally, I`d use the PC at speed 5 for all the steps.



Good Luck!



Jim

[imported_BretFraz]

3M SMR and Meguiar`s #9 are interchangable so I`d suggest using one or the other, whichever one you like. No point in using both.



3M Fine Cut is like Meg`s #2 Fine Cut. Both are best suited for rotary polisher use. Instead use Meg`s #83 DACP or Einszett Paint Polish as your medium-strength polish. Both start off like a fine cut but buffer down quickly to a milder polish while the Fine Cut`s maintain their aggressiveness. Use the yellow Meguiar`s pad and crank the speed to 6.



If you need help with PC techniques, read this: http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/detailing/forum.php?postid=1430487&page=1



And :welcome to Autopia

[togwt]

~One manâ€â„¢s opinion / observations~



Machine Polish / Foam Pad Combinations:

Always start with the least abrasive combination, if that combination of foam pad and polish doesnâ€â„¢t remove the surface imperfections, proceed using the same grade of polish but change to a more aggressive foam pad. Once you are satisfied that the surface imperfections have been removed, proceed by using the least abrasive polish / foam pad combination to remove the â€Ëœcompounding hazeâ€â„¢.

a. Use Iz Einzett Paint Polish and a polishing foam (LC White) VC foam

b. Utilizing the same polish, change to a cutting/polishing foam (LC Orange) VC pad

c. With the same polish, change to cutting foam (LC Yellow) VC pad

d. Remove the â€Ëœcompounding hazeâ€â„¢ using Iz Einzett Metallic Polish and a polishing foam (LC White) F pad.



If none of these combinations remove the surface imperfections, and only if necessary â€Ëœstep-upâ€â„¢ to a more abrasive polish Iz Einzett Ultra Polish using the same foam pads as in (1) above

It is preferable to polish 2-3 times to restore the paint film surface than to use an unnecessarily abrasive machine polish / foam pad combination.



The work is approximately distributed, 60% product, 30% foam composition and 10% pressure applied and/or speed of rotation or oscillation (wetting the foam will increase it abrasiveness as it alters the foams composition).



The use of abrasive type polish / cleaners should always be restricted to specific problems. Most original paint finishes are tougher on the outer surface than the layers underneath. The outer layers should be preserved as far as possible. Always use the least aggressive product first, evaluate the surface, then only if necessary `step-up` to a more abrasive product.



~Hope this helps~



Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one]

justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM

[Wildland]

The reason I bought the fine cut was according to another site(before i found this one) That the 3m fine cut was safe with the PC.



So I guess I will take back the #9, buy some #80, Whats a good glaze? Do I even need to glaze after the swirl remover polish? Should I just NXT after the polish.



like this:

1 #80

2 3m SMR

3 NXTx2



or

1 #80

2 3m SMR

3 Glaze(dont know which I have #7)

4 NXTx2



Im getting there be patient..



Again i would prefer to get my supplies local, but will mail oreder if need be. I want to start local so i can experiment and ALL of your opinions matter to me so Thank you all again!

[Accumulator]

Wildland- Welcome to Autopia. I don`t know if you really need a glaze. With the polishing you probably have things pretty good without one.



If you do want one, Meg`s has a few that are similar but with subtle differences- #5/#3/#81/#7 (in order of *my* preference on b/c paint).



IMO the #80/SMR/NXT combo should work fine. Don`t even know if you`d really need the SMR. I go straight from #80 to my Last Step Product ("LSP") in most cases.



If the 3M RC you`re using is PI-III RC (05933) it`s fine to use by PC/hand. I`ve used it on all kinds of paint will great results. IF it`s the PI-II FCRC (39002) you might consider switching to the PI-III stuff. Slightly more aggressive than DACP/1Z PP. More user-friendly than the DACP (just IMO) but slightly less so than the 1Z PP. A nice thing about PP is that it`ll often/usually leave a ready-to-wax finish with no need for a follow-up with a milder product.



Oh, and I`ve used the PI-III FCRC by PC- it works OK, but does leave plenty of micromarring (especially on b/c paint) and it dusts a lot (and that dust is carcinogenic). As Bretfraz said, it`s more of a rotary product. I`ll also second his opinion that Meg`s #9 /3M SMR is a toss-up, pretty much a matter of personal preference. Next time you`re buying products, you might look into 3M PI-III MG 905937/39012 depending on size) for a pretty mild polish. It`s a good follow-up for the 3M RC.