What Polish To Use on Light, White Scratches and Swirls?

[2000TL]

I was reading a lot of great things about the PC Orbital buffer and was wondering, along with a good (foam?) cutting pad, what type of polish should I use to take out minor scratches, modeate swirls and cobwebbing, and other surface defects, or at the very least, minimize them?? I read that Menzerna doesn`t work well with PC buffer (doesn`t generate enough heat) and I want something that is safe and won`t cause more micromarring, but also is effective and can take out the marring already there.



Won`t I need a step system, like a polish and then something to reduce the haze (like a glaze?). What does everyone here recommend?



And BTW: Has anyone heard of these product- http://detailingdynamics.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=DDOS&Category_Code=DC



I was talking to the owner of the company and her claims that it can work wonders, but I hadn`t heard anything about the product line, Just looking at all my options.

[Eliot Ness]

There are several combos that should work well for you, I`ll just list three to start you thinking.



1. 3M`s PI III RC (rubbing compound) followed by 3M`s PI III MG (machine glaze)



2. 1ZPP followed by 1ZMP (these are made by Einszett)



3. Meg`s DACP (#83) followed by Meg`s #80

[Rob Tomlin]

You might also look at Poorboys products, such as SSR 2.5, 2, and 1.



I`ve had great results using these products.

[Accumulator]

Yep, any of the previous four suggestions should work just fine. FWIW, I think I`d go with the 1Z stuff as it`s the most user-friendly.



1Z PP with cutting pad, then 1Z PP again with a polishing pad, then 1Z MP with another polishing pad.



I`d use the 3M stuff the same way (BTW, the pns for the 3M are 05933=RC, 05937=MG).

[2000TL]

I just had one concern: I had used 3M Rubbing Compound before and it didn`t seem to take out my swirls, but I was using by hand. Will the buffer really make the difference between being effective and not at all effective?





And after using 3M`s PI III MG after the compound, will I be ready to apply a final sealant like NXT??

[Eliot Ness]

Yes, the PC will make a LOT of difference than by hand. Between the PC and your cutting pads you`ll be pleased. Just make sure you work the RC in long enough with the PC; fairly fast on PC speed, slow with your arm speed.



And the MG will leave your paint ready for NXT or the wax/sealer of your choice.

[2000TL]

One more question: I have seen a lot of tutorials or step processes on how to use a PC (what direction to move it, how quickly, what speed, etc.) but some of them seem to differ in their methods.



What`s a link to a page, or maybe just straight from your own knowledge, that explains decisively and effectively how to properly use the PC, especially for my intended purposes of removing scratches and cobwebbing??



Oh, and 1 more ;) Can I use the buffer and polish products on the plastic like below the trunk, bumpers, and next to the wheel wells?

[Eliot Ness]

Originally posted by 2000TL

........What`s a link to a page, or maybe just straight from your own knowledge, that explains decisively and effectively how to properly use the PC, especially for my intended purposes of removing scratches and cobwebbing??



Oh, and 1 more ;) Can I use the buffer and polish products on the plastic like below the trunk, bumpers, and next to the wheel wells?

Here are two links that may help you:



http://www.properautocare.com/remswiruspor.html



http://store.yahoo.com/autopia/inf-pc7424.html



It`s late, and I may leave something out but here are some tips that work for me:

1. Work a small area at a time

2. Mist a new or clean/dry pad lightly with distilled water before polishing

3. Start at a slower PC speed (about 3) then crank it up (5 or 6) to work in the polish and break down the abrasives, but move your PC (arm speed slowly) and overlap 50%

4. Most of us learn this the hard way; have the PC pad on the car when you turn it on and before you turn it off. If you lift it with product on the pad it will sling it all over the place.



As to your last question, no, you shouldn’t polish plastic trim. Most polishes (and even wax) will stain plastic/rubber trim. Use 3M brand blue painters tape to mask those areas off or you’ll spend additional time later trying to clean off wax/polish that will stain it. Two exceptions that I can think of off-hand are VM (Vanilla Moose) and Klasse AIO; both of which can be used on trim.

[a.k.a. Patrick]

Light swirls and scratches, #80, or even Stuf Polish.

[2000TL]

I think I am going to go with the 3M system, followed up with a good sealant (any suggestions- going for durability and depth look), but before I commit, has anyone heard anything about the new "Advanced Swirl Remover" from Pinnacle? I usually associate Pinnacle with high quality products, just wondering if anyone knew anything about this?

[scottabir]

*I* heard it was an ok product (pinnacle) but nothing special...that was only a few peoples opinion though.

As far as a good sealant there are sooo many to choose from. I think for winter I usually go the Klasse route. Summer time I am really warming up to wolfgang + TS as my LSP(s). EX-P is also a good.

[Eliot Ness]

Originally posted by 2000TL

........has anyone heard anything about the new "Advanced Swirl Remover" from Pinnacle? I usually associate Pinnacle with high quality products, just wondering if anyone knew anything about this?

Here is a thread that will answer some questions for you on the Pinnacle product:



http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=44204&highlight=Advanced+Swirl+Remover



As to a good sealer for the winter, I would also suggest Klasse SG as did scottabir. I also like EX and EX-P, but I think Klasse (2+ coats) may provide better longevity in the winter. If you decide on Klasse here is one known method of application/removal:



http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30989&highlight=official+wipe+on+off

[2000TL]

So, wash, clay, 3M`s PI III RC (won`t leave further micromarring, right?), followed by 3M`s PI III MG (which should restore shine?), and then Klasse SG, and I should be set up pretty good?



Also, will I need to wash again after the claying process?

[Eliot Ness]

3M`s PI III RC isn`t as abrasive as it sounds, so following that with MG will leave you a very nice finish.



If you clay using a fresh solution of car wash soap as your lubricant you will save a little time, then just rinse/dry and start with the 3M products. The RC will remove any residue that may be left on the finish.



The only thing I would add is perhaps some Klasse AIO before the SG. That will remove any residue from the compounds and give you a really nice and clean prepped surface for SG. AIO is trim friendly so you don`t need to mask it off. It can also be applied by hand or with a PC.



Edit: Here is link to a thread on AIO you may find useful:



http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=44843&highlight=aio

[2000TL]

I was reading over at ProperAutoCar.com that the Klasse products can highlight swirls and maybe aren`t best for dark colored cars. Any truth to this and if so, is there a product that without these qualities?