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View Full Version : 1zpaint or metallic polish?



oaevo8u
09-23-2004, 07:37 PM
First off I just wanted to say thank you for every one that has replied to my posts your input has been helpfull in my goal to buy the right products(JDookie) Heres another question I have I was told to use 1z paint polish followed by 1z metallic polish and then 1z glanz wax, is there really any need to do both polishes or can just one be used thanks.

jeff5614
09-23-2004, 08:20 PM
I asked the same question not too long ago and most of the replies were that is depended on how satisfied I was after the pp. Some said yes and some said no.



I used pp today on my 97 integra with a pc on a green sonus pad. After finishing with the pp I thought everything was cool until I pulled out into the sun for a look and although the swirls and waterspots I was trying to remove looked much better there was some marring from the pp. So back into the garage for the mp which I used on a blue pad.



Back into the sun and all the marring from the pp was gone. So I would say use both, but that`s just my experience with them and I`m new to both and new to the pc. I`m sure others will have different opinions. But it was all fun.



I hope this helps some.

JasonD
09-23-2004, 08:30 PM
Yes, I`d follow PP with MP if you really want it to look its best. PP alone is going to look excellent, and for non-autopians you would normally be done, but if you want better than the best, go the extra step, you`ll appreciate it when its done..............hey, that kind of rhymed! :D

oaevo8u
09-23-2004, 08:39 PM
:D thanks, everybody`s oppinions are app.:bow another question is it neccesary to polish and wax after i clay and also how often can I clay. Oh and one other thing what would be the best quick detailer in between waxes and and after washing to remove waterspots and keep that just waxed look considering im using 1z glanz wax.

JasonD
09-23-2004, 10:05 PM
The key here is maintenance. If you keep the paint protected with wax/sealer it will prevent future paint defect from forming.



That being said, as long as you don`t have any visible paint defects to remove and it`s nice, shiny, and glossy there`s no need to repolish. I would say once a year on a perfectly maintainted car, even though most of us do it once every six months just to use our new products! :D



Clay is always used before polishing, and will remove contaminents, oils, and *waxes* so don`t clay unless you plan on reapplying your protectants but you can do this as often as you feel necessary. The old test is to get a thin sandwich ziploc baggie and put your hand in it and rub the surface of the paint (freshly washed of course) and if you feel grit, it`s time to clay.



Going back to the importance of maintenance, if your car is well protected you shouldn`t have to worry about water spots because the water will just roll right off, and if you do get them just wash and qd with something like Sonus Carnauba Spritz since you are using GW which contains carnauba.

Accumulator
09-24-2004, 12:20 PM
MP (after PP) is needed on some paints and not on others. The better you break down the PP the less chance you`ll need the MP but you can`t generalize.



I`m the "Autopina Heretic" once again when it comes to claying and LSPs. IMO (based on many years of spot-claying with every wash) it`s often possible to clay without removing an appreciable amount of LSP. Heh heh, seriously, I`d notice if I were wearing away the LSP on the areas that get clayed all the time (I use clay on bugs and tar). Whenever I`ve *tried* to "cut through" or "wear/clean away" my LSP with clay I had to be exceptionally aggressive about it, to the point that I felt I was claying incorrectly. It did eventually take me down to paint, but it was a weird experience...I just *never* clay that aggressively. I use the clay to pick contaminants out of my LSP and that doesn`t take much.



Search on this one and you`ll find all of our previous :argue on the topic.