questions on 69 + 73 Jags

[White95Max]

My neighbor`s boss was interested in having me detail his `69 Jag and `73 Jag. I didn`t say whether I would or not since I don`t know if they have a clearcoat or not, and I have never worked on a non-clearcoated vehicle before.

Do these two cars have a clearcoated finish?

What do you do different with a non-clearcoated finish?

What are some good products for non-clearcoated finishes?

Can I use any of these products for the Jags?:

NXT?

#7?

EX-P?

Paste Glaz?



I just detail cars for friends and relatives, so I`m not all that experienced and a don`t have a big selection of products. If the Jags don`t have a clearcoat, I don`t know that I would want to detail them...I don`t think my first non-clearcoat experience should be on a collectable Jaguar.

[MongooseGA]

dont quote me, but i think working with a CC is the same as working w/o one. the only thing you need to watch out for is how often you polish, because there`s no protective layer there.



i think this is the case. i may be wrong though.

[Accumulator]

White95Max- Cool project, I like working on old Jags.



If the Jags have original paint, it`s *not* clearcoated, it`s old-school lacquer. But find out, as many older Jags have been repainted with basecoat/clear or with different, non-oe single stage. You can test with a mildly abrasive polish- paint-color transfer onto your pad indicates single stage. But some non-original ss won`t give you immediate color transfer unless it`s oxidized a little. A repaint with b/c won`t give you *any* color transfer.



Assuming it`s original single stage and in generally good condition:



You generally polish/abrade ss paint the same as b/c, but the stuff Jag used is fairly soft, so don`t get too aggressive. Use *very* mild polishes and *don`t* try to get every little imperfection out. Go *very* easy on areas where the paint might be thin (edges, etc.). Remember that it`s only original once and it`s probably been polished quite a bit in all those years. Don`t freak when a lot of paint transfers to your pads, that`s normal with ss and won`t hurt anything. Biggest thing is to stop polishing too soon rather than too late. This is no time to be shooting for a perfect finish.



With this kind of paint, the old "feed the paint" stuff is *not* BS. The #7 is *GREAT* for this. Following Mike Phillips` advice, I`ve even "pre-treated" old ss with #7, putting it on pretty thick and letting it sit overnight.



I`d probably use the #7 then top it with the NXT rather than the EX-P or the Pinnacle. Those might accentuate the marring (the stuff that you`d better not try to get out) while the NXT will hide it a little.



I`d also PM Mike if he doesn`t see this thread, he`s a goldmine of info on this topic.

[White95Max]

If I would do the 2 Jags, I was originally planning to use the #7 and NXT. Since the #7 is a very weak polish, but still gives the paint a great look, I would use that. Then I wouldn`t have much paint coming off onto my supplies. BTW, I don`t have a PC...I do everything by hand.



So doing the Jag with #7 and NXT would be fine, and the process would be identical to a clearcoated vehicle?



What about claying? Can you clay a non-clearcoat finish?



The washing procedure is the same right?

[Mike_Phillips]

Hi White95Max,



First, find out if the paint on these two Jags is single stage or clear coated. You can do this by rubbing any kind of paint cleaner over an inconspicuous area on a white cloth, like a t-shirt. If you pull any color, then perhaps check a couple of other areas but chances are you are working on single stage paints.



Here`s the skinny on working on older paint,



You don`t know who has gone before you and what they have used



This applies to both SS and BC/CC finishes. So if you decide to undertake the job of detailing these finishes, then you want to keep that in mind and focus on the task at hand and remember this philosophy,



Always use the least aggressive product to get the job done"



With that said, wash these cars as normal, use a non-detergent car wash I would recommend something that a chemist has formulated just for washing cars.



Is it possible to clean the cars with a mist & wipe enough so that you don`t have to wash the cars? If these cars have been sitting for a long time in dry storage, washing will introduce water to all of the cracks and crevices and old British cars are prone to rusting. I know a lot of people with collectible cars don`t ever wash them unless the have to, because they don`t want to introduce water into place of the car that they cannot get to, in order to dry them... i.e. prevent rust.



Just a thought... I mean if you`re going to polish them with a paint cleaner, any damage you do with a mist & wipe product and a 100% cotton terry cloth towel or a microfiber is going to polish out and you will have never got the car wet.



Again, just a thought... I don`t know the owner and his connection with these cars but I have met people that won`t get their classics wet.



Either way, you can and should probably clay the finish using a consumer grade clay. It would be interesting to see what the clay looks like after you clay, say the hood. I often times take pictures of clay, before and after for the detailing classes I teach on Saturdays just to show people what kind of gunk clay will remove that often times your eyes cannot see and your hands cannot feel.



After the car is clean, if your visual inspection reveals the paint to be older, possibly original, and even lightly oxidized, before your begin to work the finish, as an optional step, you can rub the finish down with some #7 Show Car Glaze, this will act to condition the paint making it more workable, and in some cases with older, antique paints, a tad bit safer to work on.



Of course you mileage may vary and naysayers can do to their older paints as they will, but based upon my own experience saving lots of original and older paints, this is an option I opt for.



After you have cleaned, and conditioned with the #7 and then removed the #7, now it`s time to clean the paint. The definition of the work clean as it is used here is in the meaning of the way Meguiar`s uses it and that is to remove below surface defects.



For this, I would like to know if your going to do the cleaning step by hand, or machine?



Mike