Best Before & After`s-Thanks!!

[Luv-N-It]

Ok. Here`s the gig. It`s 1992 Mercury Sable my wife and I just bought from her grandfather. Her grandmother passed away last year right before Christmas-my wife was very close to her-it was her grandmother`s car. We have been wanting to buy the car and her grandfather finally offered it to us. Therefore, this was a personal thing too. It is a nice car w/every option that could come from the factory on it.

With that said, the car had never been waxed or "detailed" because they kept inside their garage, unless the local drive thru wash stations with the brush systems. Overall paint condition was fair, just heavy oxidation, swirls, and some scratches too.

Here was the process: ALL POORBOY PRODUCTS & PC 7336!!!
Wash-clay-wash
SSR2.5 w/Edge 2000 Green pad
EX w/Edge 2000 Blue pad
Four Star Premium Wheel Cleaner
Tire Shine
18 hours later another coat EX w/Edge 2000 White pad

Check out the pics.

[Luv-N-It]

hood

[Luv-N-It]

roof

[Luv-N-It]

driver Side

[Luv-N-It]

passenger Side

[Luv-N-It]

...

[Luv-N-It]

....

[Luv-N-It]

scratch & bad oxidation

[mgm2003]

Nice reflecting pool!

Just kidding, that looks really good! Probably the cleanest 92` around town.

I`ve never gone from SSR2.5 straight to a sealer (but i`ve been tempted!).
I use a mild polish like PwC & blue edge polish pad between SSR2.5 & the sealer, which improves the depth & clarity of the finish. Did you notice any marring, haze, etc.. in spots?

I`m not knocking on your work, so I hope it doesn`t read that way. I`m just wondering if there was a reason for not using a mild polish after using an abrasive one.

[Luv-N-It]

I`m not knocking on your work, so I hope it doesn`t read that way. I`m just wondering if there was a reason for not using a mild polish after using an abrasive one.

None taken and any advice you can give towards the future, please do so, especially from a fellow Ohioan...I thought about going to SSR1, and I had some to use, but the car finish cleaned up so much I thought it was ready for the EX. I "probably" should have used SSR1 where the pics show very heavy oxidation & the deep scratch, but I was so pleased with the results that I just went to the EX.

I plan on doing Natty`s this weekend if I have time. But the reflecting pool beckons me to get in the woods. :)

[mgm2003]

Understand your thought process, and may have to test this out on a panel during my next detail. I`m all for anything that saves time and doesn`t hinder quality.

Over the weekend I detailed a full size dodge quad cab that sits outdoors all year. It was black and the paint was swirled, marred, and really milky looking on the tops. It was in dire need of some care.

I started out with SSR2.5/green light cut pad, and quickly moved up to the yellow heavy cut pad. I have to admit that I had a pretty decent finish after SSR2.5, but that bad boy really took shape after an application of PwC (x 1 on the sides, x 2 on the flats). Then I sealed her up with EX-P. The owner made a comment that she had to run for her sunglasses when I approached her house to return the truck.

[Luv-N-It]

Maybe Steve/PoorBoy or others who have had alot of experience with PoorBoys can comment :beat

[Luv-N-It]

The owner made a comment that she had to run for her sunglasses when I approached her house to return the truck.
:) :) :) I`m still learning the process, especially trying to make buck over the weekend doing this stuff.

[Poorboy]

the more polishing steps you add to any detail, should give some more "POP", especially when you are working from an aggressive polish to a finishing polish:)

[Luv-N-It]

Is that to say that I would have got more "POP" going from SSR2.5, to PP or PwC, then to EX? If so, then I "think" the label directions on SSR2.5 suggests using a polish, however, states you can go straight to EX?