Swirls still clear visible even after compounding

[riu247]

Hello,



I`ve been detailing for about a year now and this is my first post here so I was hoping you seasoned veterans could help me out.



I just detailed my father`s 6 year old metallic blue Honda Odyssey, and I`m not happy with the results.



The van had clearly visible swirl marks, light oxidation, and scratches. Overall the paint was in fair condition. Primary problem was the swirl marks.



Here`s exactly what I did :



-Wash with Meg`s Gold Class Wash

-Clay

-3MPIIRC (3M Perfect-It Rubbing Compound) using PC on `4`

-Tried buffing compound haze with 50/50 water/alcohol solution

-AIO using PC on `3`

-P21S wax



I did the above procedure exactly as shown but the swirl marks, and oxidation are still clearly visible (almost no visible change in the visiblity of the swirl marks ). I used a generous amount of 3MPIIRC with the PC on `4`. Any suggestions?



Another thing I wanted to ask about was is that the compounding haze was extremely hard to get rid of. I used the 50/50 water/alcohol solution but it did little to remove the haze. I left most of the compounding haze on the vehicle, and went straight to AIO to clean it up for me. Is this okay?



Look forward to any helpful responses.

[tguil]

Sounds like a big job. I suggest that you get some DACP. I find that I have better control with it than with the 3M stuff. Apply the DACP with a Meguiar`s burgandy pad or another good quality cutting pad. Set the pc at 4 to start and immediately set it to 5+. Work the DACP until it is almost dry. Wipe of the remaining residue with a microfiber polishing cloth. Do one section as a time. Repeat several times if necessary.On a job like this it is a waste of time starting off in the least aggressive manner possible. Don`t be afraid to lean into the pc



If this works, I`ll get back to you about what I`d do next.



Tom

[imported_WCD]

From the description of the paint I`d have to say that the paint is less than fair. Using only a PC is going to be difficult in leveling the paint. The ridges from the swirls and scratches are causing those eye hating refractions of light. The level them, as stated before, a rotary may be the only way to go in terms of working the paint. If you don`t have access to one, or the experience, you will have to do your best as described above.



Good advice from above: Do a section and check the results before continuing. Once you know what will work, you are off and buffing.



Either way, Goodluck!!!



Rob Regan

[riu247]

Hey guys,



Thanks so much for the help. I`ll try the DACP method and see what I come up with.



It was really frustrating to put in all that work and obtain such minimal results. I had such a hard time getting the compounding haze off for some reason, that it was difficult to check my progress as I was working.



Thanks again fellas, I`ll post back next week with my results.



-Patrick

[SpoiledMan]

I`ll give you another tip. The light oxidation on that Odyssey is more than likely the beginning of clear coat failure.

[sw20_og]

I find that 3MFCRC to be more aggresive than DACP. You might as well stick with it. I would start it at a 4.5 and crank it up to a 5-6 with a cutting pad with slow passes. Alcohol mix will not remove compounding haze. You can take out the haze with using 3M Machine glaze, #82 or #9 on a polishing pad. Should work.

[l33]

what did you use to buff out the products?