Is 1Z considered a "medium" cut cleaner?

[charlesml3]

The hood and trunk lid of my car have lots of tiny pits that look like acid rain. I can get them out by wet sanding with 2000 grit but that seems pretty risky and possibly overkill.



Perhaps 1Z and a yellow pad?



TIA...



-Charles

[sQuashed]

Thats a tough question without pic`s Charles.. Ive only used 1Z MP and I LOVE it but it wasnt for "pits" in the Paint. Ive been very interested in the Poorboys` SSR2.5, maybe you should give that a try with a PC?

[imported_jaobrien6]

Short Answer: Probably not.



Long Answer: First of all, there are three different 1Z polishes, so it partially depends on which polish you`re referring to. They are, in order of decreasing aggresiveness: Ultra Polish, Paint Polish, Metallic Polish. Second of all, it completely depends on how deep the pits are. Most pits that I`ve seen etched into paint are deep enough that even an aggressive polishing session with UP or DACP and a yellow cutting paint don`t come close to removing them. If you`re going to try, I`d go at it with the UP or a similar polish. I wouldn`t wetsand, but that`s my personal preference. It has always seemed like an overly aggressive approach for a factory paint job on a daily driver, especially on a car you plan to keep for a while.



Hope this helps,

John

[nycs4]

There`s actually 4 1Z polishes. The 4th being the Express Polish which is the least abrasive of all the rest.

[imported_jaobrien6]

Good point, and there`s actually the waxpolish soft, too, which is also very mild.



I haven`t actually used either the waxpolish soft or the express polish, but from what I`ve read here, neither one will be any help with visible pitting.

[Accumulator]

And to complicate things even more... there`s also the Pro version of MP :D



Acid rain pitting isn`t something that *I* would try to correct with a PC; I`d use a rotary. I agree about *not* wetsanding to remove this sort of thing, you`ll thin the clear to where you can`t polish it much more (ever). Generall, IMO acid rain etching is something you should just live with on a driver.



If the Ultra/Extra won`t do it with a cutting pad, then it probably can`t be done by PC.

[Nicky Pass]

On the Metallic Polish bottle it says its safe for paint work....making me think its not abrasive at all!

[Accumulator]

Originally posted by Nicky Pass

On the Metallic Polish bottle it says its safe for paint work....making me think its not abrasive at all!



Well, "safe" is a relative term. The MP definitely *IS* abrasive, but mildly so (the "pro" version is a little more abrasive). I`ve discussed the nature of the MP abrasives with Mike from 1Z.



It`s "safe" because the abrasives are so fine. You`re not gonna remove too much paint no matter how often you use it.

[Bill D]

Accumulator,



Do you think it would be worthwhile to add the Pro MP to the 1z triplet arsenal? Where would it fit in? An attempt first before going with PP?

[Accumulator]

Originally posted by Bill D

Accumulator,



Do you think it would be worthwhile to add the Pro MP to the 1z triplet arsenal? Where would it fit in? An attempt first before going with PP?



I think so, at least in your/our case (what with our hard paint). It`s more aggressive than the "regular" MP so it`s more likely to actually *do* something ;) I`m always amazed that you get out micromarring with the MP though, so :nixweiss



But note that the Pro MP doesn`t have as much wax in it, so you really oughta (IMO) top it right away whereas you can leave the Regular go until the next wash.



The Pro stuff isn`t as cool looking (no pink tint) and it smells more industrial (I kinda like the weird smell of the regular). Not the sort of stuff that`s supposed to matter to us "serious detailers" :rolleyes: but hey....

[Bill D]

Thanks,



*Some* of the lightest micromarring visible under the 1000watt halogens comes out using MP followed by an alcohol wipe down but more times than not, it need PP then MP and/or FP. I suppose every instance of micromarring could require a different "recipe"