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Ryan
07-01-2004, 08:12 PM
This week I had some time and found a fender at the local VW Body Shop. It is a good panel to learn how to maneuver around the corners. My reason for doing this was not how to better handle the buffer but, how to sand/detail the orange peeal out of the finish. The panel was in decent conditions and had a few major "wounds".

The easy part was sanding and took about 20 minutes. It looked like this:

http://mysite.verizon.net/ryanboyce/4Fender2.jpg



The purpose of this excercise was to understand what it takes to level the paint to an orange peel free finish. Man, was I ever in for a surprise in what it actually takes to attain a perfect, glass-like finish.

To just begin to bring the shine back I started with a synthetic wool bonnet and some Hi-Temp 1000 leveler. I felt comfortable after about 2 applications. I was wrong about that. As a matter of fact, it took another 3 applications with the wool bonnet and leveler plus, another application of another synthetic compound and a foam cutting pad to remove the wool cutting pads extreme marring. Once the compounding was complete I moved on to IP polish and green pads, followed by a thick coat of glaze and Collinite wax.



http://mysite.verizon.net/ryanboyce/4Fender1.jpg



http://mysite.verizon.net/ryanboyce/4Fender3.jpg



The results are obvious. My problem is that the amount of polishing it took to muscle the swirls out of the finish is excessive. I started out with almost 7 mm of film build and ended up with between 4-5 mm. I burned right through 2-3 mm of clear coat! :scared



I mean, is it possible to remove orange peel with a machine rather than sanding? I have the idea that it may ultimately be safer and possibly more efficient if the process is done entirely with a foam cutting pad and a good compound. This way deep tracers (sanding marks) are not unecessarily introduced into the finish that need to be muscled out.



Please share any tricks. I`d like to use them for a dark green Passat hood waiting at VW.

Corey Bit Spank
07-01-2004, 08:30 PM
I see a stratus in the picture. :)

TraderB
07-01-2004, 08:49 PM
I have very little knowlege of this subject but have recently been doing some wetsanding on an `87 truck. No clearcoat. I worked with 2000 grit sandpaper only. I suspect it is better to spend more time sanding with a finer grit rather than get more aggressive. After sanding to a uniform dullness, I buffed with a 100% wool 3M compounding pad at 1400 rpm with Meguiar`s Compound power Cleaner. It cleared it up immediately to a nice gloss. I followed with DACP on the PC set at 5 with a yellow Lake Country cutting pad. Improved the gloss to a point it was hard to believe it could get any better. followed with a white Lake Country polishing pad set at 5 using 3M Perfect It III Machine Glaze. It got better! Absolutely no sanding marks or swirls.

JasonD
07-01-2004, 10:26 PM
Ryan, what grit paper did you use? Also, this might be a dumb question but how do you know how thick your clearcoat is and how much was removed?? Just curious. Thanks.

Ryan
07-02-2004, 06:40 AM
I used 2000 grit Nikken and a MarHyde paint thickness gauge. Anything that was removed was definitely clear.