Why Isn"t This Working!

[Buick_guy]

Ok, I just bought a 32 oz bottle of Meguiars Body Shop Professional Swirl Free Polish. http://10.pichold.com/picture_33.jpg



I tried hand appling it with a foam and a terry applicatior, since it didn`t seem to be doing anything, even on the slightest swirls. Then I went to my random orbital buffer thing, just to try and make it work alittle better, still didn`t, even with a really aggresive bad. All it did was add a seeming *very* slight haze.



Is there anything more aggresive I could use, that is made by meguiars or 3M, that would give me a little more cutting power

? Thanks in advance.

[Bill D]

Maybe DACP? :nixweiss You could try it with a yellow Lake Country pad or even the maroon Megs pad. I`m getting more and more dissatisifed with the results a PC yields myself and I have loads of polishes of different strengths. I`m going to just have to get a hold of some scrap panels and a rotary and start learning it.

[imported_COBRyan]

Yes, a rotary is the way to go with Meguiars professional line. Practicing on old panels is a great way to learn. The rotary is actually very easy to use after a few weeks. You just have to let it know who`s boss :)



You have to stay concentrated at all times and keep a firm grip of it. If you wonder your mind or get clumsy with it, it will swirl the paint more or possibly burn the paint and moldings. But once you master it, you will wonder why you ever bothered with a PC. Your details will go quicker, and your results will be better. With a wide variety of polishes and pads on hand, you will be able to tackle any job that comes your way.



As far as the original post, I have tried SFP by hand and it is no comparison to what a rotary can do with it. Not saying go buy a rotary, but unless you are Scottwax, dont blame the product because it didnt work by hand.

[JoshABI]

Yeah, the SFP is a light polish that may not be strong enough to take care of what you`re working on, especially by hand. Even with the PC, it may be a good idea to step up to DACP.



The PC paired with the appropriate product can still do wonders.

http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=37362

[LouisanaJeeper]

I tried the swirl free today for the first time w/ a PC and white pad. It did not seem to do what I wanted it to do (as a final polish after using DACP w/a yellow pad). How am I supposed to use this w/ a PC? Am I supposed to work it in until it turns to dust, or am I supposed to leave it a little wet? heavy pressure, light pressure? fast passes or slow?

[Buick_guy]

So how about DACP by hand, then the swirl free polish to finish it off? It should get rid of some swirls right? Is DACP good for light scratches too?



Also what kind of applicator should I use? Foam, terry cloth, wool? Thanks, I need it for tomorrow, so I need a answer soon.

[Accumulator]

Buick_Guy- I`m sorta nervous about your plan to forge ahead with the DACP/FP combo, given your less-than-swell experiences with the FP. If you have a paint/body supply place near you, try to get some 3M PI-III MG (pn 05937). It should do OK after the DACP. If they have some PI-III RC (pn 05933), that would work *instead* of the DACP and it works OK by hand. Pretty mild though, and getting rid of swirls by hand (or with your orbital) is hard work. Don`t expect perfection, especially your first time.



Maybe try the orbital since it worked better with the SFP than hand application did. Terry for the aggressive work, then foam.



LouisanaJeeper- Opinions on the SFP seem to vary. Mike Phillips and the Meguiar`s video both say to *NOT* work it until dry, but rather to keep a "wet edge" on the pad and to remove while it`s still a little wet. Generally, with a PC you want to move the machine slowly, with firm, then lighter, pressure. For the final passes, you hardly put any pressure on it at all; let it glide across the surface.

[Corey Bit Spank]

Grapefruit soda? Nummies. :)



Anyway. Are you applying it in straight or circular motions? How long are you working it for? Scottwax would be the person to ask, he seems to have good results with hand application, but I don`t know when he`s coming back from CA.

[Buick_guy]

I tried both ways, and it seemed to be better when I went back and forth. It seemed when I worked it for a really long time, it never really dried up, and it just seemed to leave a haze I couldn`t buff off. I had to wash it. Any more help would be appreciated.

[Corey Bit Spank]

Originally posted by Buick_guy

I tried both ways, and it seemed to be better when I went back and forth. It seemed when I worked it for a really long time, it never really dried up, and it just seemed to leave a haze I couldn`t buff off. I had to wash it. Any more help would be appreciated.



Make a mixture of 50/50 rubbing alcohol and water and try that to remove the hazing.



Back and forth is the proper way to work by hand. :) I have never used SFP so I really can`t help you with that.

[Jesstzn]

I used SFP on a red Jetta for the first time a couple weeks back .. I used it in the cool morning sun ( 50 F) and at 5 on the PC .. worked it lightly to a haze and it rubbed off very easy ..



Couple days later I tried it on a Malibu but it was hotter out and was a b*tch to take off. When II moved to the shade it was easy to take off.



I found it only good on *very* fine spiderwebs that you could see in the sun. But it worked great on those.

[Scottwax]

I think you will need to move up to DACP but without seeing the problem in person, I can`t say for sure if you will need an even more aggressive solution.



BTW, and Mike Phillips will verify this, you can work DACP by hand and get excellent results. When we were working the hood of a black Lexus SC430 (single stage black), we DACPed one side with the PC and I did the other side by hand using a folded terry cloth towel and worked DACP until it was nearly clear. Mike could not tell a difference and Brian (sqkycln) guessed wrong when asked which side was by hand and which was by PC.

[Buick_guy]

Cool stuff, I think I"m going to pick up some DACP.

[Matt M, PA]

I bought DACP for a car I was working on, due to the comments here. I worked it with my PC, and worked it, and worked it, and...well, you get the idea. Did nothing for me.



Another person who`s opinion I regard highly, suggested 3M Foam Pad Glaze for Dark cars....that`s the hot set-up. There were some minor parking lot scuffs and light haze that came out. I used a yellow Meg`s 6.5" polishing pad. No silicones or waxes in that either that could affect your final step`s adhesion.



If you want, I can look at the bottle tonight and get the #.

[imported_Aurora40]

Originally posted by Scottwax

I think you will need to move up to DACP but without seeing the problem in person, I can`t say for sure if you will need an even more aggressive solution.



BTW, and Mike Phillips will verify this, you can work DACP by hand and get excellent results. When we were working the hood of a black Lexus SC430 (single stage black), we DACPed one side with the PC and I did the other side by hand using a folded terry cloth towel and worked DACP until it was nearly clear. Mike could not tell a difference and Brian (sqkycln) guessed wrong when asked which side was by hand and which was by PC.



Damn... How did I miss that?? :(



Buick_guy, were you able to remove the haze you were seeing? If not, perhaps you are introducing some marring with your method of application? SFP is very mild, it`s hard to imagine it leaving a haze behind... :nixweiss