New Paint - what do you think of these comments??

[superstring]

Hi Folks



I`ve been perusing and enjoying this BBS for a few weeks now, but this is my first post.



A couple of weeks ago, I had a "small" accident with my black Subaru which required some bodywork and new paint (on about 2/3`s of the car). :(



I went to a bodyshop in town which has a really good reputation for top quality work.



I got the car back on the weekend and it looks pretty good, although I`ll have to wait until I give it it`s first wash before I know for sure.



Anyway, I asked the shop owner how long to wait before polishing/waxing and he said about a month, BUT:



1. "Modern paints don`t require any additional protection", meaning wax etc.



2. "Black cars are so susceptible to scratching" that he doesn`t recommend using anything (cotton towel, shamois, MF) to even dry the paint after a wash! I said "what about water spots" and he said "that`s life". He said dragging anything over the paint (to dry it, polish it, buff it), no matter how careful you are, is only going to scratch it and do more harm than good! :nixweiss



3. "People like you (perfectionists) shouldn`t own black cars"

:eek:



I left just shaking my head! What do you guys think? All opinions welcome.



Cheers!

[Gonzo]

Too much in-breeding!

[togwt]

:welcome to Autopia,



As you will see it’s a ‘very user friendly’ place, the people on this forum are very knowledgeable, and are more than willing to share their knowledge. The one thing that seems to stand out here compared to other special interest forums is a spirit of "open mindedness�, it’s not marque or brand specific and no opinion expressed is ‘wrong’ just different(although I think that this painters advice might well be)



I’ve put this together to help you ‘find your way around’, it’s a lot of reading but worthwhile.



After reading the House Rules (upper left of the home page) that will tell you a bit about our operating procedures (and then Acronyms) Suggest you start at David’s guide (Learn icon – Car Care Topics) and/or (Forum – University) you could also research FAQ (go to Interact-Features-FAQ) or Interact (Search) and then ask your questions on (Forums - University) there are also tips on products under Shop (How-To) plus be sure to check on the discounts available to forum members. And there’s the (Reviews) section that includes the Hall of Fame, where contributing members have posted their evaluation of products.



The Autopia “Guide to detailing eBook� (eBook Subscription) covers most facets of vehicle detailing, it only costs $9.95, and that money helps to support this forum. If Autopia solves just one of your detailing problems it’s worth the price of admission



"Learn the prep b4 using good products, it will save you $$$ in the long run." hondaguy2582



~Hope this helps~





Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/



justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*

[superstring]

Thanks for the replies!



Uh, Gonzo, not too sure what you mean :confused:




Too much in-breeding!

[imported_Intermezzo]

TOGWT, very nice post but I really gotta ask, "what on earth does that have to do with the original question?"



I think BlackRegal nailed it!



Also, you`ll have to wait before applying a carnauba wax or sealant which contain a lot of silicones in them, but you do NOT have to wait if you want to add a small amount of protection via body-shop safe products like Meguiar`s speed glaze, IHG, #7, etc.

[shaf]

:welcome to Autopia superstring. I think you`re only the second person I`ve seen that`s from Victoria. :)



Blackregal has it. :up To add to what was said...



YES cars need to be waxed! ;) I would still wait the month he suggests though, "Just in case." That way at least he can`t blame any problem that might come up on you waxing the car.



I`m sure by now you will have heard of the new miracle material: microfiber. That seems to be the detailing material of the future, although true 100% cotton towels have proven to be safe also. There are lots and lots of ways us Autopians (and other up-to-date detailers) can wash, dry, and buff our cars with little to no damage. Sure, in reality scratches and swirls are inevitable, but you can do everything you can to prevent them, and eliminate your detailing media as the culprits. :xyxthumbs



Let me take a stab at this one...
Originally posted by Gonzo

Too much in-breeding! I think what Gonzo is referring to is the stereotype of some bodyshop paint men as in-bred redneck hicks.... this doesn`t make as much sense in our part of the world, I know. :D Body men are probably some of the worse choices to ask about waxing and proper paint care. It`s not unusual to find their opinions either outdated or plain wrong.

[shaf]

Originally posted by Intermezzo

TOGWT, very nice post but I really gotta ask, "what on earth does that have to do with the original question?" I think that`s the "magic of cut and paste" right there.... not that there`s anything wrong with that other than having all the warmth of a form letter. :D

[Scottwax]

I`m too stunned by his ignorance to even respond.

[superstring]

Thanks again, guys.



I just remembered one more thing the bodyshop owner said: No matter what else you do, never use a machine (even a PC) on black paint, unless "you have a lot of experience".



I own a PC and, prior to the accident, I used it with Griot`s machine polishes and Best of Show wax with what I thought were good results. However there were always very fine "spider webbing"/"holographic swirls" (not sure the correct term) left on the paint, visible in bright sun. I`m really not sure if these were a result of using the PC. When I get around to polishing/waxing the new paint, I intend to use the Klasse twins topped with Souveran.



Any thoughts about whether to apply the Klasse twins by hand or by PC? I want to get everything "right" this time!

[2wheelsx2]

:welcome to another Canuck.



In regards to PC or not on Klasse, I think it`s personal preference. I always do it by hand, but because I never use AIO as a real cleaner. If the paint requires polishing, I pretty much use a dedicated polish. However, having said that, many use the PC with AIO for added "bite". Search for "power of AIO" for Jngrbrdman`s thread on what it can do to oxidation.



I suspect you don`t need that for your paint, which is in good shape. But you can always try it and see how you like it.

[togwt]

~One man’s opinion / observations ~

‘Intermezzo’ – “TOGWT, very nice post but I really gotta ask, "what on earth does that have to do with the original question?"…..it’s not marque or brand specific and no opinion expressed is ‘wrong’ just different (although I think that this painters advice might well be) and yes it’s a c/p welcome letter(as this was only his 4th post)







Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/

justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*

[Accumulator]

superstring- Welcome to Autopia. As others have said, disregard the nonsense the painter told you and hope that he knows more about SPRAYING paint than he does about taking care of it.



You *CAN* use a PC on black paint. Period. Your marring does NOT sound like something PC-inflicted, especially if you were using Griot`s polishes with Griot`s pads. That combo (even the MP#1) is just SOOO mild that you won`t be able to remove much with it, let alone cause damage. Use something stronger (search a bit, Neoprufrok recently had a thread going about a similar problem).



DON`T wax for a month or so, at least. Let the paint cure. Get something like Meg`s #80 for the time being. It has mild abrasives and might help with your marring. Wait to apply the Klasse until the paint is cured and you`ve removed the marring. BTW, *I* always do my Klasse twins by PC, it`s just a personal preference thing.