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trueblueblood
02-26-2004, 04:45 PM
With any rubbing compound or abrasive polish how much pressure should you apply initially I know this is a tough question to explain, but try your best. Like start with pressure like feathering it over the surface and start with light rubbing. Do you really have to rub hard to break through the clearcoat with something like 3M fine cut rubbing compound? If you ever broke through the clearcoat what can you do to repair it minus painting? that might sound stupid but I heard you can get clearcoat touchup I thought! Thanks for any help:D

Jcrawford
02-26-2004, 04:49 PM
If you ever broke through the clearcoat what can you do to repair it minus painting?



Pull out your magic wand...




With any rubbing compound or abrasive polish how much pressure should you apply initially I know this is a tough question to explain, but try your best.



my understanding is that you let the weight of the pc ad the polish do the work for you. maybe a little added pressure on tough stuff.

trueblueblood
02-26-2004, 04:54 PM
When you say pc is that a buffing machine, cuz I plan on doing this by hand? Thanks



As for the magic wand can I get that at wal mart:o ;)

Jcrawford
02-26-2004, 04:57 PM
PC is a Porter Cable 7336 (best investment ever made). by hand i can`t help bc i`ve never seriously tried it by hand. guess i don`t have the fortitude/ talents to achieve the finish i like.

tom p.
02-26-2004, 05:01 PM
...rubs me the wrong way. A rubbing compound will typically be very aggressive and may end up going thru the clearcoat in no time at all, as you note.



Do you really intend to work with this specific product? Does the paint condition warrant it? In an ideal world, you start off nice `n` easy and get more aggressive IF needed. Don`t start off with an abrasive product when not required....you just create a lot of extra work to correct the damage you just did. :mad:

trueblueblood
02-26-2004, 05:01 PM
I always thought rubbing compunds were best applied by hand? That a machine goes too fast and cut too quick! :nixweiss

trueblueblood
02-26-2004, 05:05 PM
I don`t plan on the compound being the only product I use I`m gonna start with something finer and go from there I just don`t want to start something and realize I need something else. And I just plan on using it as a spot treatment. Thanks for the help so far! :xyxthumbs

Jcrawford
02-26-2004, 05:09 PM
here`s a good start in the detailing world... works very well by hand...



Klasse (http://www.properautocare.com/klasconkit.html)

imported_jaobrien6
02-26-2004, 05:37 PM
Yes, AIO works well by hand, but if he actually does have scratches that need something aggressive like a rubbing compound, AIO`s not going to do anything for him. It won`t remove or fill those scratches.



John

Accumulator
02-27-2004, 06:56 PM
true blue blood- There are plenty of "Rubbing Compounds" that are quite mild and work fine by hand. 3M`s PI-II Fine Cut (pn 39002) and PI-III RC (pn 05933) are good examples and are handy to have around for those occasional scratches. They`ll often leave a ready-to-wax finish; they break down pretty easily to a fine polish.



As to how hard to press, well the harder you press the more it`ll cut. Don`t press harder than you need to, but just barely touching the surface won`t let [the product] do its thing either. You`ll learn by doing and those two products (I especially like the 05933) are safe/mild enough to learn with.

imported_mirrorfinishman
02-27-2004, 07:22 PM
true blue blood,



A word about compounds. Most of today`s paint cleaners and polishes are safe for clear coat finishes and because of that I usually do not refer to them as compounds. I just refer to them as polishes.



Let`s start with the basic process.



APPLICATOR CLOTH

You could use a small light weight cotton terry towel as your polish applicator.



APPLICATION OF POLISH

Dampen your applicator cloth and put a small amount of your polishing product directly on the cloth. Do not put polish directly on the surface of the vehicle.

Starting at the passenger side of the hood, apply the cloth to the surface and begin to use a gentle circular polishing motion. Apply an even pressure. Work around the car in a counter-clockwise direction. Do not apply too much pressure. You should begin to see a change in surface texture as a result of polishing. This change in surface texture is an indication that road film and surface contamination are being removed and that the surface is in fact becoming clean.



The cloth should have just enough dampness to allow the cloth to glide smoothly. You will need to add polish to the cloth, as necessary, to insure even coverage.



Always do only one section at a time until you see how easily the polish comes off. Then proceed accordingly.



REMOVAL OF POLISH

You could use two 16" X 16" cotton terry towels to remove the polish.



Place one towel in the palm of each hand. Proceed to apply the towels to the dried polish. Begin removing the polish with a gentle circular motion.

Do not apply too much pressure in any one area. You’ll need to change towel surfaces by flipping from one side to the other. If the polish comes off relatively easy then you can do a larger section. However, if the polish is hard to remove then you will want to stay with doing small sections.



The most important thing to remember when polishing and waxing a car is “all cloths must be clean and remain clean at all times.â€