Can i apply Klasse Twins on fresh new paint? Suggestions?

[xenangel]

I recently wrecked my car and getting it repaired. The whole car got painted, and noticed that after the car was painted, it was polished. I have no idea what the guy used, but it made new swirl marks and and that hologram effect. Apprently after polishing they used a wax by Amway, the Silicone glaze.



I`ve been searching and can`t seem to find any articles on detailing fresh new paint. I`m planning to used the Klasse twins, but i remember someone mentioning that you can`t apply polymer sealants on new paint. So what should i do? I want to strip the glaze, but should i? and if i do, what protection should i apply on the paint?



Can i use AIO to strip the wax? Or just use dishwashing liquid? Any suggestions?



Thanks!!!!

[Jngrbrdman]

You need to ask your paint shop about that. Usually you aren`t supposed to do anything to your paint for 30 to 90 days. After however long they suggest you go without doing anything to the paint then it is fine to use AIO or whatever you want. You really need to find out what they suggest because if you use something and the paint starts peeling off because they did a crappy job, then they could just blame it on you not waiting like they said and refuse to fix it. Its worth it to wait and then use it. AIO will take care of removing whatever is on the surface after they tell you its ok to use it.

[togwt]

Quote: Can i apply Klasse Twins on fresh new paint? Suggestions?



~One mans opinion / observation~



Polish or waxing new vehicle paint:

How long do you have to wait before you can polish or wax a new paint film surface? A glaze contains a protective polymer that is paint able. It is completely safe for fresh paint, as it allows the solvents to evaporate. I do not know of a single paint manufacture that recommends applying wax, or any type of paint protectant until a minimum of 30 days has passed and sometimes longer. Dupont standard is to wait 90 days if the vehicle is out in the elements and to wait 120 days if it is kept in a garage most of the time.



It can be argued that catalysed paints are cured chemically and there is no need to wait for 30 days, the manufacture knows their products best, seek their advice and heed it.



I would also avoid using a household detergent (Dawn) on fresh paint, as it will strip the oils, Klaase AIO is a solvent based cleaner and will do the same thing.



~ Hope this helps ~



Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/



justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*

[Accumulator]

xenangel-Leave the K twins for later. If you want to get rid of the marring and give the (*uncured*) paint a little protection, *I* would use Meg`s #80 Speed Glaze. It`s my current fave for such applications and is safe to use on fresh paint. It has a bit of "cut" to it, and may well be all you need for the marring. It has some sorta short-lived protection that doesn`t interfere with the curing process.



Just be patient and resist the urge to use long lasting, "real" last step products. No point in messing up the paintjob. As Jngrbrdman said, if anything goes wrong, you don`t want them to be able to blame you for it.

[Mike_Phillips]

Hi xenangel,



Aftermarket / refinish paint jobs continue to cure for two to three months after being sprayed onto your car`s body panels. During this curing time, paint manufactures recommend NOT to apply a “wax� or “protectant� to the finish. This is because solvents and other volatile paint components are still evaporating out of the paint.



However, you can safely use many of Meguiar’s car washes and polishes during this curing period on fresh paint without fear of causing any damage. There are other products from manufactures like 3M you can use also, but typically, most Consumer manufactures of car care product contain silicones, waxes and polymers that are not considered Body Shop Safe, or in other words, they are not safe for fresh paint, or for use in a body shop environment because they will contaminate the shop.



The below Meguiar’s polishes are wax and silicone free, and will not seal the surface of your fresh paint. This means the paint can continue to properly cure throughout the recommended curing period.



M-03 Machine Glaze

M-05 New Car Glaze

M-07 Show Car Glaze

M-09 Swirl Remover

M-80 Speed Glaze

M-82 Swirl Free Polish

M-81 Hand Polish

A-21 Deep Crystal Polish



I have noticed over the last few years, that some people are suggesting that it is okay to safely apply a wax, or paint protectant to fresh paint before the manufactures recommended curing time has past.



The logic behind this advise usually stems around the paint type. If your paint is a catalyzed paint, (that is, it is a chemically cured type of paint instead of a solvent-evaporation type of paint), that it is safe to apply a product that seals the paint. By seals, I mean a product that forms a protective, (yet sacrificial), barrier-film over the surface. Typically, this includes some type of organic, or synthetic wax, some type of silicone or polymer, and/or some type of acrylic.



While modern paints, both at the OEM level, and paints used in the refinishing industry are cured chemically, many still use some type of solvent as a carrying-agent, and these solvents still need to evaporate out of, and off of the finish.



Unsure if this is true? Next time your or a friend has their car painted, try this test.



Typically, the day after the car is painted you can pick it up from the painter and take it home. Anyone with a garage will probably park their car in the garage to further help protect their new paint job. After a few hours have gone by, walk out into the garage and take a big whiff of air.



What do you smell?



I think you’ll find the air in the garage will have a noticeable solvent smell, you can call it a fresh paint odor, but realistically, what do think is really floating in the air that gives off the scent you smell, your cars paint, or the solvent evaporating off the paint and into the air?



Will applying a wax-type product to fresh paint harm the paint? I don’t know. I can’t say �I� have ever seen a paint job that has failed because someone applied a wax-type product too soon. But I don’t follow cars with fresh paint around and have had wax applied before the manufactures recommendation and study them as a case history. It could be the paint will still last a long time and buff and shine as expected. Here’s what I do know however, a manufacture typically knows their product better than Joe Consumer and their recommendations should carry more weight, especially considering the time, money and yes hassle of having a new paint sprayed onto your car.



This guy, iceberg (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=151) just had his Corvette painted,



http://www.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2iceburghsCorvette1.jpg



by the same guy who painted the new Meguiar’s Special Events Trucks,



http://www.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2MeguiarsBigRigwithFlames.jpg



I’ll guarantee you he will listen to his painters recommendations as far as,



How soon do I need to wait before I apply a wax to my new paint job.





As far as your swirls and holograms go, that doesn’t surprise me. Painters are great at painting, but many of them not only don’t like the wet-sanding, cutting and buffing process, but they don’t even do it. Someone else, lower down the seniority list, is usually responsible for the dirty, hard portion of the job. Ironic thing is, it’s this guy, (the guy who does the wet-sanding, cutting and buffing), that makes or breaks a great paint job. The painter gets all the glory, the low level technician performs the craft of massaging the paint to perfection. Except, a lot of times they don’t massage the paint to perfection, they instill it with swirls. Some times it’s their fault, but often times they have no control over the sanding papers, buffing pads, compounds and polishes supplied for them to use. Once you lose control over your sanding papers sanding marks, it’s usually down hill from there. (My opinion).



If your paint is filled with swirls, the best time to remove them would be right now where if you’re lucky, the paint is still somewhat soft, at least not case-hardened.



If it were me, the first thing I would do would be to take the rotary buffer to it using a W-8000, or W-8006 foam polishing pad and some #83 DACP at about 1800 rpm and remove whatever damage has already been done. After that, I would take the PC to it with the same pad and product. After that I would apply #80 Speed Glaze, (Because it contains a special Paintable Polymer, for a little added protection during the curing process), and then baby that paint job as much as possible until the painter says it’s okay to apply a protective wax type product. Then use the product of your choice to add a protective, sacrificial barrier-film.



Hope this helps…



Mike





p.s.



(word count = 993, not too bad for my first post of they day)

[imported_hayless]

Mike,



Thanks for the reply.





Does anyone know if the waiting period would also apply to new cars? I am sure they have been assembled and painted for months; however, I don`t want to possibly ruin my new car`s paint by being too enthusiastic (wait, is there such a thing when discussing car cleanliness? ;))

[Mike_Phillips]

The paint on new cars is baked-on at the factory using high heat drying ovens. Once the car leaves the assembly line, the paint is fully cured.



The exception to this would be if a new car suffers any kind of damage in transit from the factory, to the dealership and is repaired. Then the repaired area would be considered fresh, un-baked paint and should be treated accordingly.



Now, will a car sales person tell you if the new car you have purchased, or are considering purchasing, has been damaged and repainted?



I don`t know.



Mike

[Scottwax]

When I got my car back from the paint shop a few years ago (front end was repainted), it had some light swirls in it, so I removed them with Meguiar`s DACP and SFP (see Mike`s product list) and then used HP and Final Inspection every week to provide some protection for 3 months until I could wax.

[xenangel]

Thanks alot with the information fellow autopians!!! Its a blessing to have a place where we can all come together and share.



Well, its Dupont paint and its Pearl white color. Funny thing is the painter`s boss said that its already dry(that`s what he said) but i`m skeptical about it. But the car was oven baked after it was painted. And the job paint job was so-so, few spots of too much paint and some imperfections.



I complained and they offered me another paint job, i just had to add a few hundred. But knowing the job they did, i will still end up the same thing. So i decided to just rectify it myself once i got my car back. The annoying thing is my engine bay has a few spots of paint sprayed over.



Thats my dilemma at the moment, but with access to autopia`s knowledge and advice, i know i can make it perfect.

[shaf]

Hmm, this ALSO doesn`t belong in the Pro forum...




"Professional Detailers" is not a place to ask the "pros" in hopes of getting a better answer. It`s for discussing issues related to detailing as a business.



Moved to AU. :up