Looking for Definitive Answer about #82/#9

[Accumulator]

There seem to be two schools of thought regarding these Meguiar`s products :confused: One says to keep the edge of the pad wet, and to NOT work it until dry, but rather remove it while it`s still a little wet, lest you induce micromarring. The other school says to work it until it IS dry, and almost gone. I`m NOT trying to start some :argue here, I just want to hear from people with more experience with these products than I have. If rotary/hand/PC use makes a difference, I`d like to hear about THAT, too.

[Jngrbrdman]

The thing you have to remember is that you are asking for a definitive answer regarding technique. There is no definitive answer for that. Different strokes for different folks. I`d tell you that nobody can really effectively use a swirl remover by hand, but I`ve seen Scottwax`s work. I think the definitive answer is on the product label. The rest of it is just personal technique. All you are going to get here are a dozen opinions of what works best for them. If everybody agrees on the same method then that would just about be a first for Autopia. :lol Its usually 6s when it comes to agreeing on a process around here. Too much needs to be factored in and I really don`t think there is a concrete correct method to many of the products we use. Lots of ways to skin a cat on Autopia.

[ntoddalbert]

I can only say I did both DACP and #9 on two cars last month, worked both till dry and almost no residue. I had no micromarring whatsoever. I have had trouble wiping off wet products in the past , this time the hardest part was the dust on the adjacent panel. I will continue to work till dry.



Keep in mind my cars are white........ Used a PC on speed 6 with a yellow Megs pad for dacp, went to a tan pad for #9

[Accumulator]

Jngrbrdman- LOL, yeah, I sorta stuck my foot in it there..OK, I know what you mean...guess I shoulda known better than to say "definitive" :o But I still want to hear as many opinions (heh heh, make that "*PERSONAL OPINIONS*") as I can from experienced users of these products.



I didn`t see it as a matter of technique in the sense of personal preference...but rather (erroneously?) as a more cut-and-dried either/or. Like asking if you oughta double-clutch or not with a non-synchro transmission ;)



If it turns out that BOTH methods work fine then that`ll be a good answer/consensus in my book!



Oh, I only brought this up because every time someone says "the #82/#9 left things WORSE", an experienced user seems to say "don`t work it dry".

[Scottwax]

Work it until it is nearly clear and dry, especially with DACP, since it starts off more aggressively. I`ve always gotten the best results, both in appearance (shine and depth) and flawless surface (no marring) by working DACP and SFP until nearly clear and dry.

[Accumulator]

ScottWax- That`s the sort of "..I`ve always gotten the best results.." response I was looking for. I knew that about the DACP, was/am unsure about the #82/#9. Hey, I don`t even USE those products myself! Just wanted to know.

[Tim Lingor]

Hey,



I am one that believes in keeping a wet edge. I have found that I prefer to keep that product (#82) damp during application and removal. Now, I am using a rotary for this procedure and perhaps that is the difference. But when using the rotary, keeping a wet edge means working the product while it is wet/damp. If the area has not been buffed enough, add more #82 and continue buffing. Unlike #83 DACP that has Diminishing Abrasives that need to be broken down and hence, buffed to a point where only a light dust/residue remains, #82 Swirl Free Polish does not. I have found that buffing dry #82 with a rotary, the added heat/friction plus dried product on the pad, can cause marring.



Tim

[Scottwax]

Tim-good tip using a rotary, but by hand or a PC won`t generate the heat that a rotary will and #82 works best for me if I work it until almost dry (not completely dry, but almost dry).

[Tim Lingor]

Hi Scott,



That is why I mentioned the rotary. Using a product with a rotary changes many factors. The rotary makes even a mildly aggressive product more aggressive. Hence why I suggest keeping a wet edge.



As for PC or hand use, I have not used #82 by hand; but, your awesome results speak for themselves!! :up



Cheers Buddy!



Tim

[bigguy]

I used Swirl Free yesterday with a Vector rotary buffer and buffed a 1993 Mercedes finish to a beautiful shine. I buffed the polish until it was completely gone at a speed of about 700 0r 800. The dial was set between 1 and 2. With the Vector 1 equals 500 and 2 equals 1000, it is a little different than the Dewalt.



I wish to add that this car had not been polished for years. It had heavy oxidation and swirls.

[Accumulator]

I sounds like the application method has a lot to do with how long your should work these products...glad to hear the different responses :xyxthumbs