Bought new car - black. What to buy, etc

[imported_mirrorfinishman]

Originally posted by Greg

Why no clay? Why only professional products? Why no buffer?



Maybe it would be best to read the thread over on the `Detailing` board;

`Clayed my car and have SERIOUS problem!`

http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=31166



Unless someone has the experience, knowledge and skill level I will almost always reccomend no clay, no buffer and only the use of professional products.



Now this may not be very popular and may be a problem to some, however, as a detailing professional; it`s the best advice I have to offer.

[Patrick]

Yes, and no....I would clay, without a doubt, its essential to remove that new car crap that accumulates.....As for orbital buffing, im not sure i could bring myself to do that on my new car, if i have never done it before, especially black, especially with a new Cobra. I think i would want to see product results prior to me using them. Im a little confused with franks defenition of "professional" though. Is Blackfire considered Professional ?

Im sure that Cobra would look ooohhh ssooo goooood with a couple layers of BF on it.......

[Quik89si]

I`ve used clay for four years or so, probably 2 or 3 times per year, and I never had a problem like that with my black car. I haven`t seen numerous other posts about the same type of thing. I`m sure there are many other experienced detailers on this board that have used clay for many years with no problems like that one.



With clay, it seems to be easy to make sure that you`re using it safely...make sure to really soak both the clay and the panel with some sort of QD, and you should have plenty of lubrication. Also, check the clay every few strokes and see if you can see anything embedded in the clay. If you can, pick out what you`re able to and then fold the clay, make a new flat surface, check it before laying it down, and start again. Seems to work fine for many of us...



Also, can you specify what you mean by "professional products"? Like Meguiars products that say "Professional" on the front? What about some of the more popular products on this board, like Klasse AIO and S100 wax? Do you consider those "professional"? Just thought it might be a good idea to specify exactly what you`re recommending.



Alex

[imported_memnuts]

Hi Young_Stallion,

First - Never wash a hot vehicle or in direct sunlight



A good washing technique involves the usage of plenty of pre-wash wet down and rinse and a good auto shampoo ( I prefer Zaino Z7, 1Z Perls, Gold Class, and I plan to try Meg 00). Whatever shampoo you decide to use make sure that it has good-excellent lubricity ( as I found out, suds are less important the slimeness - 1Z :xyxthumbs).

The next important tool and plan is the 2 bucket method. One bucket with your washing solution and one with clean water. The second clean water bucket it for dislodging any particulate matter that should have immigrated into your washing mit/towel that you just wiped off the completely panel. The second bucket may have to be changed a couple of times during a wash ( that`s where patience can be put on trial :) ).

Wash Mit, very important and the item that will most likely cause the damage to your paint. A high quality mit/towel is essential. I prefer a natural fiber mit/towel. I presently use a DF microfiber Towel ( very soft, deep pile, allows immigration of dirt into itself, releases said dirt upon dipping in rinse bucket and hold a great deal of soapy water. I just got a really nice MF wash mit that I will try next spring when I take the black Z28 out of hibernation.

Always wash top to bottom - top/hood/truck/ upper side panels/ lower side panels, etc.

Use a separate mit/towel for wheels/tire/ fender wheel/ underchassis and alway do last unless you are going to change your wash and rinse water before proceeding do wash your paint.

Rinse completed panel well and periodically re-rinse until you are finish washing remainder of vehicle and ready to dry. This avoids water spotting.

Next potential area of concern is the final drying. Again use a high drying towel. There are many excellent products - Waffle-weave Microfibers, synthetic chamois ( takes a little practice with the blotting technique, and of course the old stand-by, a 100% high quality cotton towel.

I am sure there are points I missed that I hope fellow Autopian`s will chime in and fill the blanks or post the thread that outlines what I just illustrated.

A great, no excellent resource for detailing procedures ( including the proper washing technique) is DavidB`s e-book on detailing. A great reference and starting point for the basics for the perfect shine and car appearance maintenance.

Hope this helps

[grt1today]

If you`ve never used a porter cable before, I probably would`nt on blk. Either have a professional do it, or better yet just use a good hand polish yourself. But I would absolutely-positively-without a doubtely:nixweiss use a clay bar. Don`t be scared, just use plenty of lube. Meguiars QD is actually really good because it`s real sticky. Do it, you`ll be glad you did:)

[imported_Greg]

The PC is the easiest machine in the world to use. It would be next to impossible to do any damage with this machine. That`s why its so popular. I would take some FP or SFP to the new car, based on number of dealer installed swirls.

[imported_memnuts]

The only way a PC could damage your paint would be to drop it on your vehicle or being foolish enough to use a sandpaper pad rather than a polishing/buffing pad. JMO.



Young_Stallion,

it sounds as though you have secondary transportation. Use that vehicle to test how easy and rewarding claying and PC usage is. If you can wash a car you can clay your vehicle.

Simple technique: Use plenty of lube ( 1 cap of car shampoo in 10-16oz of distilled H2O). Only work clay across surface in a straight line. Let clay do the work. No need to use pressure. Let it glide. As the invisible grit is removed you will feel the change on how the clay moves across the finish. Continually monitor the clay contact surface and knead frequently. No professional expertise required. Just practice and again patience.

[GO Dawgs]

So what products would yall use on black?



Car Wash?

Polish?

Wax?



Want something also to remove minor swirl marks

[imported_memnuts]

Originally posted by GO Dawgs

So what products would yall use on black?



Car Wash?

Polish?

Wax?



Want something also to remove minor swirl marks



Just may experience



Car Wash: Z7, 1Z Perls, Meg`s Gold Class



Polish (swirl removal and minor blemishes): Using PC - Meguiar`s DACP followed by Menzerna IP and FP. Optional( cleansers/glaze) Clearkote Vanilla Moose or P21S GEPC.

Hand application products: Search "ScottWax" threads :xyxthumbs



QD: Meg`s Final Detail, Zaino Z6, EO Wet, Mother`s, Poorboy`s Spray and Wash.



Wax: any non-abrasive carnuaba or sealant (1 exception: the Klasse twins are reported to be very good AIO (cleanser) & SG)

My arsenal: Zaino, Platium UPP, Poorboy`s EX, Meg #26, P21S, Pinnacle Souveran and Poorboy`s Natty`s Carnuaba.

All these products have slightly different final appearances in terms of wetness, depth, color hue, optical clarity, reflectivity and durability. The trick is to find the balances between the look that pleases you and gives you the protection durability that you require.

[imported_mirrorfinishman]

Originally posted by GO Dawgs

So what products would yall use on black?



Car Wash?

Polish?

Wax?



Want something also to remove minor swirl marks



As a detailing professional, these are the products I would reccomend.



CAR WASH:

Meguiars #00 Hi-Tech Wash



POLISH:

Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze

Meguiars #9 Swirl Remover



WAX:

Meguiars #20 Polymer Sealant

Meguiars #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax

[GO Dawgs]

So this is an 04 F150 black in color. Should I clay the vehicle or what. Is Meguires the way to go or what?

[DetailQueen]

Originally posted by grt1today

Congrats, on a beautiful new car. I would clay it, klasse twins, and souveran on top...:) :xyxthumbs :xyxthumbs