Application technique with Meg’s #9 and a PC?

[Tazmo]

I’ll soon be tackling the job of trying to put a sealant (Klasse) on for the first time. This will also be my first time using a PC. I’ve been searching and reading through the archives and found tips on just about everything from washing, drying, claying, and the proper way to apply the Klasse twins (thin, thin, thin!). However, I haven’t really come upon much on the best way to apply Megs #9.



In other words…how much do I need to work the product? Does it need to be worked to a powder…or does it need to be removed wet? If wet…how? MF towel? How much product should I use…just a couple of dime size blobs on the pad…or should it be applied thicker? Would it be ok to use it with a yellow pad…or even a wool pad (in some places)? If so, what speed should I put the PC on?



My car is silver and the previous owner kept it reasonably well. However, it is 10 years old and has its share of deep scratches from rocks and door dings, etc. The previous owner said he’d taken it to a detail shop to have it “compounded�. While he was pleased with what they did for the most part, most of the scratches still remained. The car also has some swirling and minor marring as a result (I guess) of the detailer’s so-so technique using a rotary.



Now…I’m not expecting try to get rid of most of the scratches (some of which would require touch-up paint), but I am hoping to get rid of some of the swirls and other minor marring the detail shop left. For my first time out, I decided to skip anything more abrasive and just see what #9 would do. I can always go back and get more aggressive later.



Appreciate any advice,



-Taz



Oh yeah…would I get more mileage out of a top coat of S100 if I used a PC instead of by hand? I mean, I would apply it by hand, but would using a white pad to take it off really gain me anything over taking it off by hand? Again…any tips on technique would be appreciated.

[imported_Greg]

Welcome! #9 probably isn`t going to be aggressive enough for the swirls and scratches. I find DACP to be much better for things of those sorts. I would suggest doing DACP with the yellow pad, then #9 with white pad. As for working #9, I would work it till it is powderish, except it doesn`t get as powdery from my experience with SFP, which is close to #9. However, try #9 with the yellow pad. No need to go to wool. Work it and see how you are doing. If you are using Klasse, make sure you go over it with AIO because the SG won`t bond to the fillers in #9. Good luck.

[Accumulator]

As Greg said, you`re gonna need something stronger than #9 to get any real marring out, at least with a PC (as opposed to a rotary). Don`t worry, there are a LOT of products that are more aggressive than #9 but not TOO much so for a PC beginner. Even DACP will probably be fine, or try 3M`s PI-III MG (pn 05937). And I second Greg`s advice to stick with foam pads instead of resorting to wool- better to use a more aggressive product.



As far as how long to work the #9, Mike Phillips (resident Meguiar`s expert) has been saying to NOT work it until it`s dry. Not even until the product on the edge of your PAD dries. Letting it dry is supposedly gonna lead to marring. So try keeping both the pad and the area being worked wet with product, right up to when you (gently) buff it off. Sounds sorta counterintuitive I guess, but I always defer to Mike on Meguiar`s-centric questions.



The DACP is different, there you WANT to work it to a powder. The 3M PI-III is sorta in between, work it until it`s ALMOST gone, but it`ll wipe off easier if you don`t overdo it.

[Tazmo]

My thanks to you both for the advice.



Yeah...deep down I know I should start with DACP. In fact, that was my original plan. However, I`ve got an extra long weekend ahead with some great weather being forecasted and I realized it was too late to order the DACP. I *may* be able to find it locally, but I may not. Guess I`m just a little anxious to get the Klasse twins on.



Accumulator...the info you`ve passed along from Mike Phillips is just what I was looking for. In my search I`d come across a thread in which a newbie reported serious trouble with #9. Can`t recall all the comments, but it didn`t seem like anyone had chimed in with a definitive answer of what had gone wrong.



Now...even though I`m new, I`ve seen Mike Phillips name pop up enough to recognize that name as being an authority on something like this.



So...taking it off wet it is. I take it then, you really don`t need to worry about using too much product? I mean, if you`re going to take it off wet, what would be the difference if you put it on thick or thin? I guess you just wipe it off with a MF?

[TortoiseAWD]

Originally posted by Tazmo

Yeah...deep down I know I should start with DACP. In fact, that was my original plan. However, I`ve got an extra long weekend ahead with some great weather being forecasted and I realized it was too late to order the DACP. I *may* be able to find it locally, but I may not. Guess I`m just a little anxious to get the Klasse twins on. Tazmo,



I`ve had luck finding professional Meg`s products at auto paint/body supply stores here in Omaha . . . according to QwestDex, there are a few places in your hometown that might have what you`re after:



CAVE AUTO BODY SUPPLY CO

200 N GUM ST SUMMERVILLE, SC

(843) 875-2310



CAVE AUTO BODY SUPPLY CO

1923 E MONTAGUE AVE NORTH CHARLESTON, SC

(843) 747-9604



Q H & F LTD

3138 INDUSTRY DR NORTH CHARLESTON, SC

(843) 207-1802



HTH,

Tort

[Accumulator]

Originally posted by Tazmo

... I take it then, you really don`t need to worry about using too much [#9]? I mean, if you`re going to take it off wet, what would be the difference if you put it on thick or thin? I guess you just wipe it off with a MF?



Try to use the LEAST necessary to keep things from drying out. Also, get some Meg`s #34 (final inspection) and use it to keep things wet too. You still want to "work" the product, just not until it`s dry.

[imported_Greg]

Originally posted by Accumulator





As far as how long to work the #9, Mike Phillips (resident Meguiar`s expert) has been saying to NOT work it until it`s dry. Not even until the product on the edge of your PAD dries. Letting it dry is supposedly gonna lead to marring. So try keeping both the pad and the area being worked wet with product, right up to when you (gently) buff it off. Sounds sorta counterintuitive I guess, but I always defer to Mike on Meguiar`s-centric questions.





Learn something everyday!! I`ve worked SFP to pretty much a powder, not quite as much as DACP, but closer than the wet method described here. I can say however, that I have never experienced any surface hazing with a white pad and the PC. Thanks Accumulator/Mike for the tip nevertheless.

[Tazmo]

Gee...I must say, you guys are awesome. Not only do I get some good application advice, but Tortoise gives me a list of where I might be able to locate some DACP in my home town!



And...after I`d put up my previous post, I ran across a post of Greg`s in another thread suggesting to someone to try Maguiar`s dealer locator on their website. With all this info, it seems like I should be able to find some locally after all.



Thanks again to all you guys. If all goes well, perhaps I can report back with some pics.

[imported_Dave Holmes]

Tazmo,



I highly recommend the DACP. #9 is very mild in my opinion, and had trouble minimizing minor swirls on my Nissan even with a PC and cutting pad. DACP removed them with the PC and cutting pad, and took care of light oxidation, too. #9 after DACP did give the finish more gloss, though. I just got more #9 as I use it as my "general" polish/cleaner, followed by #3 Machine Glaze, Gold Class Wax, topped with #26. This was recommended by Meguiar`s tech support when I asked about adding "pop" to my arctic pearl white paint. The tech rep was right on target!



And like everyone else says, work the DACP until it is powdery. You`ll see what we mean when you do it. There`ll be dust on the surface around where you are working. This method works the best for me, leaving a finish that is suitable for waxing right then (but Autopians enjoy doing more than 2 steps too much to quit there).



Hope this helps.



Dave