View Full Version : DACP or SR 2.0 first?
BamaGSR
10-31-2003, 11:52 PM
I finally got my PC and goodies to remove the swirls in my Milano Red 1997 Integra`s paint tomorrow. But I have a question: I ordered my goodies from Premium Auto Care, and Dwayne suggested that I use DACP first, then finish with SR 2.0, so I got both products. However I have read on some sites that you should start with the SR 2.0 first, and only go to the DACP if necessary, and others say just use the DACP. I`ll let Autopia have the final say, what`s the best course of action? This is for the red paint on a car that has 128,000 miles and in some areas the paint is a bit faded, almost to a pinkish state. Swirls are very obvious in the sunlight.
So which option should I use?
1. Use SR 2.0 only
2. Use DACP only
3. Use SR 2.0 first, then use DACP if necessary
4. Use DACP first, then follow with SR 2.0.
tpgsr
10-31-2003, 11:55 PM
test a spot with the SR, if it isn`t strong enough to do the job, then use the DACP. There is never a set course of action, but your best bet is always to go from least to most abrasive as needed.
Edit - And if you do end up needing to go the DACOP route, then do DACP followed by SR, and possibly something like #7, then wax
DACP
2000,
If you use a PC, then YES, do DACP 1st, then SFP.
If using a rotary, it`s opposite due to cutting ability of a rotary. You always go to the lower polish prior to a heavy cleaner/polish with the rotary. Rotary polishers generate heat, and a lot of it in short time!
With a PC, it cannot generate enough heat like a rotary, so a good cutting pad and DACP always works well for tuff swirls. If swirls are light, switch to a polish pad. Cutting pads/DACP tend to create a haze. Which is removed by SFP or #9 or 3M PIII-MG and a white polish pad.
For a PC, the best pads I`ve found are those "finger" pads as I call them. CMA has them. They cut very well, do not load up and seem to assist the PC in some way as opposed to a standard pad.
For that final really glossy look, put a grey or beige Megs finish pad on and use #81 Hand Polish. You want to talk shinny? This is a pure polish, no abrasives.
Then, wax away!
Regards,
Deanski
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DR SHINE
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`03 Lexus Absolutely Red SC430 brought to you by Zaino! My SC430
BamaGSR
11-01-2003, 07:43 PM
I went with DACP first, then SR. Seemed to work fairly well. Got most of the swirls out, I was hoping the faded paint would look a bit better, but all in all it looked good.
BTW exactly how much polish does the SR add? I noticed that after I had finished using DACP, then SR, the car looked as shiny as it previously had with AIO/SG/S100 on it. I barely had time to get the first layer of SG on this afternoon before the sun went down, going to add a layer of UPP tomorrow, and eventually add one more layer of UPP and SG each, then top with S100.
If the SG/UPP/S100 can add any shine on top of what I was left with after the SR, I will be thrilled.
Scottwax
11-01-2003, 08:07 PM
Bama-Meguiars Swirl Remover 2.0 and Swirl Free Polish (body shop line) are both very shiny polishes. If a customer comes out to see how their car is coming along just after I`ve finishing using Swirl Free, they are positive I`ve already waxed it.
BamaGSR
11-01-2003, 08:15 PM
Originally posted by Scottwax
Bama-Meguiars Swirl Remover 2.0 and Swirl Free Polish (body shop line) are both very shiny polishes. If a customer comes out to see how their car is coming along just after I`ve finishing using Swirl Free, they are positive I`ve already waxed it.
Yep, mine did indeed look like it had just been waxed. Hopefully adding the SG/UPP/S100 will make it look even better.
BamaGSR
11-03-2003, 02:07 PM
Originally posted by Scottwax
Bama-Meguiars Swirl Remover 2.0 and Swirl Free Polish (body shop line) are both very shiny polishes. If a customer comes out to see how their car is coming along just after I`ve finishing using Swirl Free, they are positive I`ve already waxed it.
BTW, is it possible to use the Swirl Remover as a base for the Klasse SG? It seemed like the car looked wetter after just the polish, then when I added AIO/SG, the car was more reflective, but the wet look was gone. Seems like it would look great if the SR was topped with SG, if this is possible.
Scottwax
11-03-2003, 10:37 PM
Originally posted by BamaGSR
BTW, is it possible to use the Swirl Remover as a base for the Klasse SG? It seemed like the car looked wetter after just the polish, then when I added AIO/SG, the car was more reflective, but the wet look was gone. Seems like it would look great if the SR was topped with SG, if this is possible.
I don`t know. I`ve never used the Klasse twins. After using Swirl Free, I follow with Vanilla Moose and S100 or Carnauba Moose. The burgandy Porsche in my gallery has that combo (S100 topped).
BamaGSR
11-05-2003, 02:34 PM
Originally posted by Scottwax
I don`t know. I`ve never used the Klasse twins. After using Swirl Free, I follow with Vanilla Moose and S100 or Carnauba Moose. The burgandy Porsche in my gallery has that combo (S100 topped).
I`ve been wondering, which do you think leaves a wetter look on a red car, S100 or Vanilla Moose(and is that the exact name of the product?). I`ve noticed you seem to be very high on both, just wondering if you think there`s enough difference between the 2 to notice?
If you have Klasse AIO you should use it first before applying SG. Some people would not, but by default using AIO first will help ensure proper application.
Try adding more SG layers and wait for the layers to cure. It will probably look better after both of these.
jeremyp111
11-06-2003, 06:27 AM
Originally posted by BamaGSR
BTW, is it possible to use the Swirl Remover as a base for the Klasse SG? It seemed like the car looked wetter after just the polish, then when I added AIO/SG, the car was more reflective, but the wet look was gone. Seems like it would look great if the SR was topped with SG, if this is possible.
You cannot apply SG over SR. SG needs to bond to the paint and SR will prevent this because of the oils and fillers left behind. The reason why the wet look went away when you applied AIO/SG is because AIO removed any oil/fillers left by SR. To get the wet look back just top AIO/SG with a quality carnauba wax of your choice. Be sure to add all of the SG layers you plan for before applying your wax. BTW, the look will get better with each layer of SG. About 3-6 coats is ideal.
Jeremy
BamaGSR
11-06-2003, 11:26 AM
Originally posted by jeremyp111
You cannot apply SG over SR. SG needs to bond to the paint and SR will prevent this because of the oils and fillers left behind. The reason why the wet look went away when you applied AIO/SG is because AIO removed any oil/fillers left by SR. To get the wet look back just top AIO/SG with a quality carnauba wax of your choice. Be sure to add all of the SG layers you plan for before applying your wax. BTW, the look will get better with each layer of SG. About 3-6 coats is ideal.
Jeremy
It has a layer of SG and a layer of UPP on it now, I am going to add at least one more layer of each before going to the wax. I was planning on topping with S100, but I also have some of Meguiars #7 and #26. Could I top the SG/UPP with #7 then #26, then S100?
Originally posted by BamaGSR
It has a layer of SG and a layer of UPP on it now, I am going to add at least one more layer of each before going to the wax. I was planning on topping with S100, but I also have some of Meguiars #7 and #26. Could I top the SG/UPP with #7 then #26, then S100? No, the #7 will probably blow away anything else under it. You generally can`t really combine glaze and sealant usage.