View Full Version : I hear that Klasse SG is hard to remove, any tips for easier removal
PDT447
10-16-2003, 04:45 PM
I have AIO but want to try SG but need to be prepared. Any tips for easy application and removal?
Thanks
SK2003TypeS
10-16-2003, 04:51 PM
Check out this one from the Hall of Fame. Really good write up. Good Luck !
http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12590
Welcome to Autopia :wavey
Pats300zx
10-16-2003, 04:53 PM
The best method I have found to remove SG is the 2 MF method. One damp and one dry. Make a pass with the damp MF and follow with the dry one. I have never had any issues with SG removal using this method. I would also suggest waiting at least one (1) hour for the SG to cure and at least 24 hrs between coats of SG.
Hope it helps...
raymond_ho2002
10-16-2003, 06:05 PM
The two towel method helps a bit. Sonus QD will help a lot. It significantly reduced, but did not completely eliminate my hazing problems. Still working on it.. :(
tcfool
10-16-2003, 06:17 PM
I too have a little write up that worked well for me.. I love the stuff now!
Klasse (http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=28689)
TC
:xyxthumbs
Use an applicator dampened a tiny bit with water to get the SG as thin as possible. Thin is key.
I used a spray bottle to mist the paint with water as I was buffing instead of using 2 towels. It seemed to work just as well.
Be sure to let the SG dry thoroughly. 1 hour or more is usually suggested, but adjust the time depending on temperature and humidity.
Patrick
10-17-2003, 12:18 AM
Join a Gym......
Kidding, kind of, I dont wanna get in trouble....Actually I felt like i was leaving a gym when i got done....Someone will chime in with there miracle cure for the Klasse Twins....I use AIO quite frequently actually, pretty dad gum good stuff !!
imported_NHBFAN
10-17-2003, 09:01 PM
Sonus makes SG removal a breeze. Even if you apply too much product (a common error with SG application) Sonus will remove it and leave your finish very bright.
Apply 3 to 5 coats and top with S100. You`ll be glad you did.
chris0626
10-18-2003, 07:38 AM
As I`ve posted recently, last weekend I had my first Klasse experience on the Benz. Used AIOx3, followed by SG. But by that time, it was getting dark. So I left it on overnight, came back to it the next morning after the dew had dried, then buffed it right off with a CBT, and it was as easy as S100. Shocked??? You betcha.
Now for the truly shocking part. Applied the 2nd layer of SG Monday night, intending to remove it Tuesday morning before work. But it had rained overnight and I didn`t have time to deal with it. So I drove it to and from work (quite embarassed by the SG haze all over the car, glass, and wheels :( ). Too tired to deal with it that evening or the next morning. (Call me Lazy Detailer.) So I ended up removing it Wednesday evening -- 48 hours after application! :eek: First I went over the car VERY lightly with a WW to remove the worst dust. Then used Meguiar`s Final Inspection and the CBT. Again, it came off like a charm, and the shine was wonderful.
Now ... I wouldn`t exactly recommend a 48-hr wait between SG application and removal. But it worked for me.
OK, go ahead and shoot. :o
BillNorth
10-18-2003, 01:52 PM
Oh my. OK, a correction to one of the posters. Curing is the time required between coats of a product. Curing is the actual bonding and molecular crosslinking process. For SG, CURE time is 24 hours, not 1 hour. The 1 hour you are referring to is (by some ppl) the recommended DRY time. Many have suggested letting sg dry for an hour to make it easier to buff off. Not true. The best way to remove SG is to wipe on and wipe off. Do a section at a time, similar to how s100 is applied and removed. Using the two towel method or the water in a spray bottle method will cause your SG to develop an oily haze/film down the road, especially as the weather changes. Ask me how I know this. Ask showroom lincoln how he knows this as well. It`s the reason why he stopped using klasse.
To apply SG, mist your terry applicator with a non-carnuba based qd. Apply it to a section thinly, so thin you can`t even see it. Then immediately wipe with a DRY MF/cotton. Move onto the next section.
I don`t recommend using lynn`s method either. Buffing your car after having driven it anywhere is asking for trouble. You are just begging for swirls. QD`ing your car after driving is also asking for trouble. Again, ask me how I know this (and on a silver car)!! With that said, its not practical to let your car sit in the garage for 2 days letting the sg dry.
The method I`ve outlined is the simplest and most effective way to SG a car. It takes me half an hour to SG (apply/buff) to a MB C-Class or BMW 3 Series. There has been no degradation in my SG thus far.
And Ironically, this method is also how klasse USA recommends applying the product. One of the oldschoolers on here sent Bob from Klasse USA an email asking him the best way to apply and remove SG. He said, wipe on, wipe off. Nobody believed him at the time because they thought he was trying to make SG more consumer friendly. It turns out he wasn`t bs`ing. I`m proof of that.
And please, no flame intended to anyone on here. Just trying to set the record straight.
Hmm, you know I had forgotten all about your "wipe on, wipe off" method Bill. I never did try that out.... :doh
BillNorth
10-18-2003, 07:00 PM
Originally posted by 4DSC
Hmm, you know I had forgotten all about your "wipe on, wipe off" method Bill. I never did try that out.... :doh
Time to give it a shot then. You still have time. The snow hasn`t fallen... yet. :D
rstype
10-18-2003, 07:55 PM
Ugh, it`s funny how I saw this thread *after* I applied Klasse.
So I clayed the Odyssey`s roof for the first time today, and for no reason at all, I felt like experimenting with SG again. I applied a thin coat with a QD misted foam applicator, went inside, marinated some chicken, went online, and found this thread.
And I read Bill`s post, ran back into the garage, panicked, and am now trying to get rid of this SG residue. Most of it came off with a MF, but there are still some stubborn spots. It`s so "stuck on" that you can barely feel it, and it almost looks like minor scratching.
So I could either...
a.) Use a damp MF or QD and risk meeting that infamous SG haze. (It theoretically doesn`t work anyway, as exposing it to water will prevent the air from crosslinking the resin.)
b.) Reapply SG over this mess and immediately remove it.
It`s getting dark, too, and I`m lazy!
PDT447
10-19-2003, 01:36 PM
Wow great advice guys thank you so very much! A wealth of information by some very friendly people!
imported_jgv
10-19-2003, 01:41 PM
Originally posted by BillNorth
The best way to remove SG is to wipe on and wipe off. Do a section at a time, similar to how s100 is applied and removed.
Wow! this method opens an all new opportunity to my 1L bottle of SG! :bow
Originally posted by BillNorth
Ask me how I know this. Ask showroom lincoln how he knows this as well. It`s the reason why he stopped using klasse.
I don`t understand, he stooped using SG cause it could be that easy? (wipe on/wipe off) :confused: