3m Pi Iii Mg....pita?!?!

[BCS996TT]

I just completed a 4 hour detail on the car today using the PC for the first time. My hands still feel the intense vibration from the PC.



Below are the steps that I performed...



Wash

Clay

Wash

Dry

DACP with Yellow Pad using PC

PI III MG with White Pad using PC

S100 applied and buffed by hand (much easier than using a PC)



I followed the PC user`s guide (product application and usage) and had very good success with the DACP.



However, the PI III MG was sort of a PITA to buff out with the PC. I was told to apply and buff out the PI III with the PC, however, on several occasions, their were several spots with built up residue that would not buff out (with the PC) and was a PITA to buff out by hand. I had to use a little Final Inspection with a MF towel to get it out...and even then, it seemed that it was caked on pretty good.



Is this type of residue build up typical with PI III? I used about 4 dime sized drops of the product on the pad, smeared it around the work area and used the pc to apply and buff. I tried applying the product with the PC and then hand buffing the rest, but that would have taken double the amout of time.



Any ideas?:nixweiss

[ultrajim49]

I had the same experience with the PIII MG.

For starters I learned that it is an absolute must that the glaze is used extremely thin.

Second it must be buffed off no longer than a minute after applying : so just do one section at once

Third : if you see (after buffing) some haze , don`t bother trying to get rid of it : apply the wax (S100) of your choice , let dry & cure, buff out to a nice shine and you will see that the haze of the PIII MG will be gone.



see allso : http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=15856&highlight=perfectit+III



:wavey



Christiaan

[Mmmph]

I spritz my pad with EO Wipe & Shine when using PIIIMG. It lets me work it longer and cuts down on the residue. I`ve always removed the minimal amount of redidue by hand (MF). No problems!



I dig PIIIMG. It`s my #1 swirl fighter

[Accumulator]

What cvcaelen and Mmmph said. In my experience, sometimes you get the MG residue, others you don`t :nixweiss I`ve tried faster/slower/shorter/longer/thinner/thicker...can`t find a real solution or a definite cause beyond the obvious mistakes one can make (using too much, letting it dry too long). Usually it`s not a problem, but sometimes it`s a pain.



When it JUST WON`T come off, I use AIO. This is the ONLY thing I`ve found that removes it quickly and easily (and I`ve tried nearly everything!).



I`m experimenting with 1Z polishes in part because of this residue issue. They seem to contain a LOT more oils, so for some people it would just be trading one problem for another.

[TortoiseAWD]

In my experience, Prep-solve makes short work of that type of reside from PIII-MG. Like Accumulator, though, sometimes I get the residue, sometimes I don`t. Seems to happen more often once the pad loads up . . . I have several pads and switch to a clean one if MG starts leaving a film behind; that seems to cut down on the problem.



Accumulator, please share your experiences with the 1Z polish. I`m considering placing another order to the Autopia Store, and 1Z polishes are on the "maybe" list right now.



Thanks,

Tort

[imported_chr9s]

My experience with PI-IIIMG is that, being water-based, it tends to dry on the surface. However, a damp MF cloth was enough for me to remove MG from the surface w/o additional considerable effort. I "work" PI-IIIMG as I would DACP. The only difference is in the removal -- I have to spritz some h20 on the MF to remove PI-IIIMG. DACP removes easily using a dry MF.



I`m curious why you had to use PI-IIIMG after DACP. Do you have any micromarring after the DACP step?

[Accumulator]

jduarte- If you can get the MG residue off with a little water you`re lucky. There are times when *I* can`t get it off without either a) rubbing a lot harder than I want to (regardless of what I use on the MF) or b) using AIO.



Never tried the PrepSol/Cleans All/etc. though. Don`t like to use it after polishing if I can help it.



TortoiseAWD- Not to 1Z-hijack the thread, but short take: get all three 1Z polishes (or AT LEAST the Ultra/yellow and the Paint Polish/green) UNLESS you`re using something like Zaino where the oils might be a hassle. The 1Z polishing of the S8 is going well but I still think they must have a lot of oils. NOT a problem, no smearing or anything like that. Easier than the 3M stuff I generally have preferred if only because of the lack of residue. Definitely worth a try :xyxthumbs

[BCS996TT]

Originally posted by jduarte

I`m curious why you had to use PI-IIIMG after DACP. Do you have any micromarring after the DACP step?



Well, Im new at detailing and was told by others that PI III after DACP was a good idea? I did have a few swirls left over, but that was probably b/c it was my first time using the PC. However, the PI III worked really well to get rid/cover those swirls.

[Deanski]

I Agree, It`s always a good practice to step down in polishes to get that mirror finish.



I did same thing, DACP, then 3M PIII-MG (very sparingly) then Menz-FP.



DACP does get hazed if used with a cutting pad, but if you switch backl to a polish pad and use DACP,most of it is gone.



I`ve also used Megs SFP after DACP and found great results!



The 3M has to be use sparingly. Too much and you get a hard polish to remove. Then you need some from of QD to soften it B4 you wipe so you do not add marring from rubbin g too hard as you try to remove it.



For those going to wax, the 3M PIII-FG is outstanding! It contains polish and carnuba, so if wax is your route, that`s a great product. But, if you go sealants, stay away from the FG and use SWP and Megs HP or other fine polish.



Regards,

Deanski

[Deanski]

OK, Here`s a very good example of someone using DACP and 3M PIII-MG followed by S100.



3M PIII-MG Results (http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=262406#post262406)



Regards,

Deanski

[imported_chr9s]

Originally posted by Accumulator

jduarte- If you can get the MG residue off with a little water you`re lucky. There are times when *I* can`t get it off without either a) rubbing a lot harder than I want to (regardless of what I use on the MF) or b) using AIO.



Never tried the PrepSol/Cleans All/etc. though. Don`t like to use it after polishing if I can help it.





Agree, you shouldn`t be needing to use Prepsol or any chemical cleaner after the polishing step. You`re negating whatever shine enhancing ingredients these products layed down on the surface. Yes, I don`t find MG hard to remove. A lot of other Autopians have found the product to be quite good and don`t seem to have any problems with removal. I think Nick T also does the same technique as I do with removal - damp MF.



I agree with the point mentioned about stepping down on the polishes. However, PI-III MG and DACP are very close in terms of agressiveness (at least IMO). If you`re getting hazing or marring from DACP with a cutting pad, then it`s probably the pad that`s causing this. With a PC and a polishing pad, DACP is quite mild and I could go straight to wax after DACP if I wanted to. YMMV. So, IMO, it would have made more sense to follow DACP with SMR or Meg SFP, which is really a step down in agressiveness.



Come to think of it, a huge number of products get a couple of steps down in agressiveness when used with a PC. I even remember jngr or smoker use PC + Diamond Cut to get rid of some imprefections. Whereas Diamond Cut is only used in a rotary as a last resort when all other less agressive polishes or compounds fail. So DACP, while being a 5 or a 6 in Meg`s agressiveness rating, is still pretty mild when used with a PC. Again, YMMV. Just my personal observations.