sorry to bring that up again, but i really need help here...

[chip douglas]

would it be a mistake and could it be the reason of my failure to remove swirl that i spritz the pad a bit too much ? I think it would make sense that this will dilute/reduce the effectivenes of a polish



please let me know, time is ticking.....i mean winter is coming and i got to get both are cars done soon.



:nixweiss

[LOTA OT]

Actually, with most abrasives, if you spritz the pad, it usually takes the compound longer to break down. If you still have swirls, either you didn`t use a stong enough polish, or you didn`t work it long enough.



Most polishes don`t need the pad to be spritzed. What products are you using and under what conditions. Why did you think you needed to spritz the pad?



Michael

[chip douglas]

im using 3M`s machine glaze pn. 5937, and saw spritzing pads in a lot of postings, that i thought it`d help, but actually it didnt, it made the product useless......so sprtizing is over as far as im concerned...........im alomost certain it dilute the product so much so that it becomees useless, at least the local 3m guy told me that those using water with their products have a hard time with them and find they re not that good, and the reason why they find they re not good is cause they use water.

[JPS911]

FWIW...I didn`t spritz with the Machine Glaze, I`m assuming that is what you are using. I spritz when I apply Zaino, but that is it. I found water or anything else just makes the product less than useful.

[imported_Tony]

Sometimes you need to spritz a wool pad. Usually you do not need to spritz a foam pad. When I do spritz a foam pad it is the first time I start using the pad and then it is only that once.

[ehgvette]

I only spritz the pad initially so I don`t start with a dry pad. From then on you`re keeping the pad moist with the product you`re using.

[Accumulator]

Chip Douglas- I haven`t got around to addressing your marring removal troubles. Lynn even PM`ed me about the "can you get a perfect finish" thread but....anyhow:



Are you using a rotary or a RO? I THOUGHT you were using a rotary. IF SO, the 05937 really oughta do it for you. UNLESS you`re somehow re-marring the finish during product removal or something (how good are your towels?). If you`re using a RO, *I* think you`re gonna need to get more aggressive. Maybe you`ll even need to do so if you`re using a rotary.



*I* find that 3M`s polishes/compounds act MORE aggressive with a damp pad, FWIW. I generally use them on DRY foam pads, damp wool ones. Yes, they oughta work OK with a dry pad. Maybe try distributing the product more evenly/completely on the pad.



Another though is to try the 1Z polishes. *I* find them VERY easy to use/remove.



As (I think) Jngrbrdman said in the other thread, it`s a mechanical process of abrading down the paint until you get it all level with the bottom of the "crevice" of the swirls/scratches. Mild products/pads (and RO`s as opposed to rotaries) take longer than aggressive ones..If it`s not going fast enough for you, step up to something like 3M`s PI-III RC (pn 05933). It`s really NOT that much stronger than the MG, honest ;)



OR, as I often tell Lynn, live with a little marring. IMO (OMG, Accumulator`s Autopian Heresy again :eek: ), there`s a LOT more to having a nice looking car/pleasurable ownership experience than having a perfectly mar-free finish. Like having plenty of paint (and a life beyond detailing). Yes, a total lack of marring gives a look that can`t be equaled if you DO have marring, but still...I have (completely, as best I can tell) swirl-free cars and ones with marring, and I doubt that 1 person out of 10 can tell the difference. But then I don`t own black or red cars any more...Give it a little thought and do what makes YOU happy.

[chip douglas]

I pretty much agree with you on many thoughts expressed here............i noticed it`s very hard to keep a finish swirl free. so one prolly do the best he can and let slide the rest/ or just hide whatever marring is left.



:wavey