ack...swirls proving tricky...thoughts?

[JPS911]

Recap: Flawless finish, bodyshop buffed it w/o my permission.

Rather than fight to have them fix (after all, they did it wrong in first place), bought a PC and some Lake Country pads.



I first tried 3M SMR with white pad...didn`t seem to do too much.

Tried 3MSMR with Yellow pad...didn`t seem to do much.

Tried Meg ScratchX with White pad...didn`t seem to do much.

Tried Meg ScratchX with Yellow pad...ack...worse. Occurs to me to try the obvious...

Tried 3M SMR with black polishing pad...MUCH better...but still there. Really worked it in until powdering...still there...PC on about 4-5...went over it several times.

Also tried ScratchX with black...not too much difference.



So, if black finishing with SMR is too little, and white polishing with SMR is too much...what next? :nixweiss



Please help...want to try some more tomorrow, and buy whatever I need to during the day. Ack.

[russ968]

Hey JPS911,



Hmmm...tough day. I haven`t used Lake Country pads so it will be difficult for me to comment. SMR has fillers, which I’m not sure you want, and lighter abrasives.



I`d go get some DACP, 3M PI-IIIMG and which ever of the pads are a medium to light cut, yellow with Lake Country I think. I`d start with the PI-III and pick up the DACP if the PI-III isn`t enough.



I`m a huge fan of the closed cell orange pads from CMA or Griot`s. I don`t know anyone local that sells these though.:nixweiss



Are you going the polymer/acrylic route to complete?



Russ

[JPS911]

Thanks...yes, going with 3-5 coats of Zaino Z5 to start, then build up to about 20 coats of Z2.

[Accumulator]

Yeah, I`d try the PI-III MG. Try with the white first, if that doesn`t work do the yellow-then-white. BTW, I too like having some of the orange Griot`s pads on hand for those in-between jobs.

[JPS911]

I have picked up some 3M FI-IIIMP (or PI-IIIMP, whatever it is), but haven`t yet used. In meantime, thought you might like to know what David B himself mentioned about this (I`m assuming he doesn`t care that I post it, as it is information all can use), as I definitely learned some stuff that makes sense, but is counter to some of the advice I read on the board:






I am assuming that the finish was good to begin with and that there are no scratches that you are trying to remove. I am also asuming that the body shop made the finish "duller".



Step 1 was the best step to take. Step 3 and 4 were big mistakes! "SX" is awful stuff. Very coarse. Miles away from SMR in grit. You "may" need to go back to SMR with a yellow pad then finish with a white pad to overcome the hazing roughed in by the SX.



I have nearly 100% luck using these steps normally. And this would be from starting from a finish that is probably "worse" than yours.



1. Finesse It and yellow pad

2. SMR and yellow pad (if necessary)

3. SMR and white pad

4. Paint Cleanser and white pad. (P21S or Pinnacle)



Keep in mind, I have trained people along with this list and they have had no luck. But the reason was "technique". Most people use the PC like they are applying wax. They move it around on the car WAY too fast. You have to go very, very SLOW. Only do a 14-18" square area at a time, per application of compound. Keep in mind, the orbital nature of the machine makes it VERY safe. You can literally stay stopped in one spot for several minutes and you wouldn`t burn a hole. Don`t fret it. Just watch the thin spots like sharp edges or corners where paint is sprayed thinner. Also weight the buffer enough to deform the pad just slightly. Watch the speed of the spinning pad. You want to slow it a bit but not stop it.



Apply LIBERAL amounts of compound and do not let it dry powdery. That is just a myth and so wrong. Compounds were NOT designed to use dry. They bunch up and can cause their own scratching that way.



Push hard enough with the pad that you see a "snake skin" pattern appear with the compound on the surface of the car. Then watch the consistency of the compound as you move around. It will eventually (3-4 minutes) start to break down, you will see it look shinier and almost look more watery in consistency. Just a few seconds later, especially on the outside edges, it will start to dry. That is when it is time to stop. Use a little QD and MF towel to help remove excell compound. Don`t push hard, this is virgin paint!



I do this for all steps and it always works.



Hope this makes sense.

Brad



PS

Just helped buff a black `96 Carrera last weekend! It worked great!







Also






But you may be able to save it with SMR/yellow pad and then SMR/white pad. Pads make a huge difference.



Something else I noticed, the larger the pad, the longer and slower you should stay in a particular area because it runs even cooler and "works" even less.



When I am trying to get out scratches, for instance, I can never do it with a [7.5"] type pad. It has so much flexibility in it and won`t allow be to push. I prefer to use the [6"] pads has when I have tough places to compound. Keep this philosophy in mind and go particularly slow if you only have an assortment of the larger pads handy.