DACP + Yellow pad not strong enough

[Beason]

I just tried DACP using a Yellow cutting pad from CMA and even though it did fairly well it didnt leave up to my expectaions, there were still some swirls and light scratches. The PC was set on about 4.5 and i worked in 2 x 2 areas mostly. What could I do next to get these out? Increase the speed of the PC? I also have a Meg. Red Cutting Pad with is a little strong then the Yellow and also have a Wool pad, would u recommend these? What is the next abrasive product I could use if DACP isnt strong enough?

[imported_Kyle]

I`m on the same situation, I`m looking for next level..DACP wasn`t good enough for me. How about wet sanding? or Blue Moose that Scottwax is talking about?

[Beason]

I do not want to wet sand and the blue moose that scott was talking about is still being developed and he has it as like a "trail version" im not sure though.

[JasonC8301]

Kick it up a notch to 6. I work in the polishes at 6 with PC. But for now my Makita has replaced my PC for removing defects. My Pc is used primarily for final finishing.



I would use the Pc at 6 then work in the DACP until it is fully broekn down before trying the blue moose (pretty strong stuff) or wet sanding.

[shaf]

Hmm, you know sometimes we tend to overlook this simple option, but how about just trying it again?

[GoodnClean]

I got worthless results with DACP the first time, the second time, on 6 breaking the product down way after I thought I had to, it came out fantastic.

[Accumulator]

I`m always pretty conservative when it comes to how much clearcoat you should remove. BUT..sometimes, especially when you`re just starting to get a (previously abused) car into "Autopian condition", you have to be pretty aggressive. Then pamper it so you don`t have to do THAT again.



*IMO*, sure, try using the Meg`s maroon pad. I has just a little more bite than the CMA yellow. MOST of the time, the (foam) pad just lets the product work its magic better. The pad itself isn`t gonna cause any big problem.



Even the (right) wool pad isn`t THAT aggressive on a PC. And yes, I do serious swirl removal at speed 6.



Again, just *MY OPINION*, but I STRONGLY urge everyone (who hasn`t done a lot of it with great results...you guys know who you are, this isn`t about you ;) ) to just FORGET ABOUT WETSANDING YOUR BASECOAT/CLEARCOAT PAINT. Even 2000 grit wet takes a "feel"...how much do *YOU* think .3 mils feels like? You`ll still have to polish it out, and by the time you remove that much clear it`s too late. Better to have imperfect original paint than to have to repaint.



Hey Jason, getting a feel for that rotary?

[JasonC8301]

Brian - Not overlooked, just indirectly stated to try again at speed of 6. I find that my PC always seems to be at 6 when I break down polishes.



Accumulator - I think I`m getting that rotary down.



First dark colored car (did a silver car before this one, but that color is hard to tell if your really doing it right, hides imperfections so well)

http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25153



http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=26282



Finally two cars with rotary, BMW by hand, all in 8 hours.

http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25401



Anyway back to topic, as Brian/4DSC and GoodnClean said, try DACP again (but kick it up a notch to 6.)

[tkr128]

I`d also recommend using speed 6 on the PC and really working in the product. I`ve always been hestitant about going up to 6, but I tried it last week and really worked in the product (FI-2) and the results were amazing. It got rid of about 90% of my pretty bad swirls. :xyxthumbs

[Beason]

stupid question, how do you know when the product has been fully broken down? last time i used it, it was a little hard to buff out after i was finished.

[JasonC8301]

DACP when fully broken down shouldn`t be hard to buff off. It breaks down to a powder that should be wiped/dusted, not buffed off.



I find 3-5 minutes at 6 will break down the DACP to this powder.

[imported_Kyle]

When I used DACP with speed 6, it made squeaky sound when I wiped off, was it okie or I used PC too long?

[Magellan498]

Usually polishes are done being worked into the paint when they start to dry and powder off.



When you start throwin powder, then you`re done.

[LOTA OT]

I might be in th minority here, but I don`t work DACP until it`s a powder. I find it`s pretty much broken down before it gets to that point and I stop while it`s still a little moist. Something about buffing a powder scares me, especially the way DACP balls up when dry. I also find it`s easier to wipe off the residue. Using this method, I don`t get any hazing and sometimes just go right to wax.



If the DACP isn`t working with a yellow pad, either try the wool pad (though I`ve never used one so I can`t vouge for it) or as 4DSC said, just apply again. A second application should get the deeper swirls. You might also try a little more pressure when you first start the PC and lighten up as you ramp the speed up.



Michael

[jerry@robs]

sorry to butt in... most polishes and compounds require a little of pressure for it to work properly, meaning you have to press down a little more than the weight of the polisher then when it starts to break down, let the weight off a little and buff to a gloss... most people just "spread" the product like they do by hand... you need the pressure.