What would you buy? P21S GEPC or Vanilla Moose Wax?

[nonwelder]

The title says it all....The VM is about 5 dollars more, but I am kind of indifferent to that. I will be using DACP, followed by VM of GEPC, and then topped with EX and S100. Any thoughts would really help me out!



Thanks,

Brett

[BradE]

I`ve tried both, I prefer P21s GEPC. :up

[imported_Greg]

VMW IMO.

[nonwelder]

OK, we have one vote for each....hmmm..any others?? lol



Brett

[mx5gary]

3M P3 Finishing Glaze

[chris0626]

I used S100`s SEC (pretty much equivalent to GEPC, as I understand it) on the Benz last month. The Benz has not had Autopian attention and the paint is lightly oxidized, I think. The SEC did not really do much that I could see -- not really much cleaning action, and not much shine enhancement. Last week I finally tried the VM that`s been gathering dust since it arrived a couple of months ago. I must say -- and I hate to say it -- the VM did a bit more for the paint -- a bit more cleaning, and significantly more shine. Both times, I topped with S100. The VM did better for me, but your paint may be in much better condition than mine was.

[kg/cm²]

I also prefer GEPC/SEC over VM...->I<- feel that GEPC/SEC gives me a slicker finish than with VM...

[Scottwax]

Vanilla Moose. In fact I sent what was left of my S100 SEC to pats300ZX when I sent him a sample of Quikshine to try.



Both are very good products, I just think VM is easier to use, has slightly more cleaning power and to me it seems slicker. In addition, VM has wax in it, so you can use it as a stand alone wax if you need a quick cleaner wax.



It also helps that the shop I buy VM at gives me a professional discount, so I pay $10 for a 16 oz bottle of Vanilla Moose. Even without the discount, I`d still use VM.



Even at $12, you get 16 oz, where with GEPC/SEC, you get 12 oz for about $9, so really, the price per ounce is about the same.



---------------------------------------------



BTW, Lynn, why do you hate to say you got good results with Vanilla Moose?

[chris0626]

Well, Scott ... You promise I can say this and not start a flame-throwing contest?? This is a bit off-topic.



When folks started raving about VM, MW, etc., I fell prey to (what Mr. Greenspan might have called Autopia`s) "irrational exuberance," and ordered both -- plus ClearKote`s V/R treatment. When they arrived, and I looked closely at the ingredients, I noticed that the V/R contained petroleum distillates, which I know are bad for my old cars. Frankly, that made me suspicious of the whole product line, and that`s why I didn`t even use the others for at least a couple of months. (Now, that could lead us into a whole `nother kettle o` fish about the differing levels of quality that different vendors manufacture/provide for different markets .... but why go there?)



Consequently, I approached the VM with a big ol` boatload of skepticism. And it really had to "sell" me. I had already tried the highly-regarded SEC, with (as I said) disappointing results. So I was casting about for anything that would give me some improvement without too much trouble. I had used #7 in the past. When VM started looking so good on the hood and one side, I went to the trunk, taped it down the middle, and applied VM on one side and #7 on the other -- fully expecting to prefer #7. I didn`t. (That`s not to say anything bad about #7; I suspect the differing results had to do with the amount of paint-cleaning the `93 Benz needed.)



That`s probably a whole lot more than you wanted to know.

[Scottwax]

Lynn, I understand your reservations, I was a little unsure myself when I found out Moose Wax was a petroluem based wax because I`d never heard of that before, but I tried it on my own car first and a few other cars I see regularly so I could monitor it very closely before I used it on more cars. Honestly though, I prefer Vanilla Moose to Moose Wax since it has some light abrasives instead of just chemical cleaners. Moose Wax is excellent on real good paint (no swirls or scratches, etc) and I love using it on door jams and wheels.

[chris0626]

Thanks, Scottwax. I haven`t yet "bellied up to the MooseWax bar" yet. Just waded in the shallow Vanilla Moose waters. Your idea about trying it on door jambs is a good one; maybe I should try it there, or under the hood, or someplace that`s not so critical to me.



But it wasn`t the PDs in VM that threw me. I`m not so nervous about using them occasionally on paintwork, since I think (?) the paint is fairly non-reactive. It was the fact that PDs were in the Vinyl/Rubber Treatment -- when most of us know that PDs in vinyl/rubber is a real no-no for long-term use. That a manufacturer would throw those into a V/R treatment really made me think long and hard before using any of his products. That probably makes no sense to others; but I tend to be on the cautious "stay between the lines" side when it comes to my cars.



So ... that darn bottle of V/R Treatment is still laying in a lonely corner of the basement; I don`t even want to put it in my detailing-supply cabinet. (Is that weird or what??) But I also don`t feel right about returning a product that I suppose I bought impulsively.



OK. Now we`re really way off-topic. So we probably oughta drop this, or launch the discussion in some other appropriate forum.



"We now return to our regularly-scheduled programming." :)

[Pats300zx]

Vanilla Moose. In fact I sent what was left of my S100 SEC to pats300ZX when I sent him a sample of Quikshine to try



Thanks again for the samples Scott. Needless to say I purchased a gallon of Quickshine yesterday. I really love this stuff.



I am a big fan of S100 SEPC. I actually find that I like it better than Pinnacle PPCL.



As far as VM goes, its something I may have to put on my "to get" list.

[imported_memnuts]

I like ( love) and use both products. I give a very slight edge to GEPC because of the condition of my finishes. I use both strictly as cleansers and gloss enhancers. All correctable surface marring is taken care of prior to this step.

I love VM on my clearcoat rims because of it increased cleaning capacity and ability to lay down a coat of protection all in one step.

Answer Brett. Get both and add another dilemma to your detailing decisions. ;)

[nonwelder]

Whoa! Now I am really confused here...:p Maybe someone can offer some more help based on these comments. I want something that can be used right after DACP to hit the tiny things DACP might leave behind or miss. Judging by what you have all said, it seems like VM would be the choice here, but shout your opinions. Also, I am guessing these products work best with the white PC pads.



Thanks so much,

Brett

[imported_Smoker]

I`ve never used VM or Moose Wax, tho I wouldnt mind giving it a go.



A little advice to the topic starter tho - anything DACP misses will need filling in (basically cos its too deep to compound out), but the paint itself will be clean as a whistle, and should only require something with fillers before you wax or seal it.