**Random Questions Part I**

[glass_image]

well i came up with several questions that i was hoping you guys could help me with...



1.) are there any other alternatives to removing old wax besides dawn/paint cleaner/claybar? i know claybar doesn`t remove all the wax anyway though...



2.) when i get done claybarring a section, should i then wipe it with a terry cloth and rinse after the whole job is done or what?



3.) when polishing, how should i apply to small objects like side mirrors, front bumper, rear valence, etc.? my PC would have a really hard time reaching some of these areas...



4.) is the difference in a wax and a sealant that the sealant should be applied after polishing, to lock in the oils and the wax actually gives it a more in-depth shine therefore needs to be applied after the sealant? if so, what are some good choices of sealants and can they be applied by hand?



5.) where can i order products such as pinnacle, zaino, 3m, etc.?



6.) what is the difference in all the different types of pads for the PC? i noticed on griot`s website that there are several different colors... what is the difference? do these pads connect to the velcro backed pad or are they seperate pads alltogether? is there a particular package i can purchase that includes all the different pads?



7.) my rear bumper was repainted a few months back and i`ve been trying to get the `rough` texture of some of the paint to go away... i thought it was overspray but after using a claybar on it, the roughness was still there. did they forget to clearcoat it maybe? also, now after polishing for the first time (don`t know if it was there before this) there are tons of micro-sized specks or holes on the part that was repainted... any idea what this is?



i am very sorry for the numerous questions, but i`ve been posting about them and can`t seem to get any answers (also tried searches). any help would be GREATLY appreciated... thanks in advance :)

[Onehole]

Some answers:



1.) are there any other alternatives to removing old wax besides dawn/paint cleaner/claybar? i know claybar doesn`t remove all the wax anyway though...



I use P21S Total Auto Wash. Its a citrus degreaser and will strip wax.



2.) when i get done claybarring a section, should i then wipe it with a terry cloth and rinse after the whole job is done or what?



As long as its not too hot, I wait till the end and give the car a light wash.



3.) when polishing, how should i apply to small objects like side mirrors, front bumper, rear valence, etc.? my PC would have a really hard time reaching some of these areas...



Polish by hand.



4.) is the difference in a wax and a sealant that the sealant should be applied after polishing, to lock in the oils and the wax actually gives it a more in-depth shine therefore needs to be applied after the sealant? if so, what are some good choices of sealants and can they be applied by hand?



Wax and sealants serve the same purpose...to protect the paintwork from the elements. Both should be applied over paintwork thats in good condition (generally this is achieved by polishing the paint first). Waxes generally give a better depth of shine, while sealants have the advantage of lasting longer.



Some folks use a sealant, and then top it with wax to get the best of both worlds. Klasse Sealant Glaze is a great sealant and is generally applied by hand.



5.) where can i order products such as pinnacle, zaino, 3m, etc.?



Zaino needs to be ordered from them...other stuff http://properautocare.com/



6.) what is the difference in all the different types of pads for the PC? i noticed on griot`s website that there are several different colors... what is the difference? do these pads connect to the velcro backed pad or are they seperate pads alltogether? is there a particular package i can purchase that includes all the different pads?



Check out the same link above



7.) my rear bumper was repainted a few months back and i`ve been trying to get the `rough` texture of some of the paint to go away... i thought it was overspray but after using a claybar on it, the roughness was still there. did they forget to clearcoat it maybe? also, now after polishing for the first time (don`t know if it was there before this) there are tons of micro-sized specks or holes on the part that was repainted... any idea what this is?



Sorry no.

[Nick T.]

1.) prepsol as used by paint shops



2.) use a shampoo/water solution for the lube, rinse as you go



3.) get a 3.5� backing plate and 4� pads, do it by hands for the remaining areas



4.) most sealants won’t bond properly with underlying oils/waxes - as a general rule synthetics add reflectivity and carnaubas/oils add depth



5.) most products from CMA (http://www.properautocare.com/) - Zaino (http://www.zainobros.com/) online for info, then by mail - 3M from local paint stores



6.) see geekysteve’s Porter Cable for Beginners (http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/detailing/forum.php?postid=1430487&page=1)



7.) dunno

[Andre']

7. Sounds like a very bad paint job. The rough texture is orange peel, and the pinholes AKA solvent popping, is from trapped solvents, air or moisture. The repair shop should fix the proplem for free.

[DaGonz]

I agree with Andre on question 7. It sounds like the body shop did poor preparation before spraying the rear bumper area. They shoudl repaint it for free.

[glass_image]

i guess ill go back and ask them about it... i bet they wont do it for free though :(

[Jake11375]

They should have given you warranty papers for the completed paint work if they are a ligitament repair shop. Pinholing and orange peel are inexcuseable on new paint. If they don`t fix that at no charge, then they don`t deserve to be in business. Even Maaco will back up their work on something like that.