Cordless PC

[Bobby G]

Well, it took me a while, but I finally set some time aside to try the "cordless PC." That`s right, my PC cordless drill.



I used a 4" backing plate and a variety of pads, including a 7" finger pad and a 6" fine concave pad (shown). I played with a variety of polished from medium compound to fine glaze. The results were very impressive. I rant the cordless on low speed. High speed is way too fast.



I had far better results than I would expect to get with the PC 7424 and nearly equal results to my PC rotary. The big news, though, was just how easy and comfortable the cordless is to use. I got about an hour and 10 min out of the first battery before I had to change over to a second battery. With as slow as I work, I would need two batteries to complete a car.



The 4" backing plate worked okay, but I think a 5" or 6" is necessary for best results. I will order one of each to do more experimenting.

[Steve @ Guru]

Very cool - my only concern would be the longevity of the drill`s motor when run for long stints.



The reason I mention that, is because when I was a tech at the dealership, we had this hand-pump gas tank that we used to syphon gas from vehicles. Very useful when you needed to change a fuel pump in a single-tank E150 van with a full 30+ gallons of gas...tanks get a little heavy at that point. :)



Problem with the gas pump was that it took about 1,000 cranks to get 1oz of gas out of the tank. (It wasn`t the best design) So, many of the guys would rig-up drills and air tools to do the cranking for them while they worked on other stuff.



I saw at least 5 drills bite the dust mid-syphon - the motors got too hot from spinning all that time...we`re talking like 30-45 minutes straight. Makita`s, Bosch, B&D, Milwaukee and Dewalt - we all had our "favorites". My Makita died the first time I tried that trick. :(



Very cool idea, I`d just remind folks to watch the temp of their drills. They get pretty warm rather quickly - be sure to give `em time to cool and rest. :)

[Bobby G]

Steve,



This PC cordless has been through hell and back. I`ve built two homes with this PC tool, even dropped it off the roof onto a concrete slab... yet, here it is. This is one tough tool. My guess is that I`ve driven more than 50 LBS of drywall screws with this thing. I have three batteries and I`ve run it long enough in a single day to drain all three batteries. It just keeps on running.



db

[shaf]

Thanks for reminding me of why I passed up on a cheap rotary that would spend most of its time collecting dust. I thought about doing this very trick one day when I was shopping for drill accessories. I figured I would only dare use a rotary for stubborn spot jobs anyway (if at all), so for the cost of a backing pad that chucks into a drill I could have some rotary polishing capability without having to buy an extra tool.



That`s great to hear it works well David, thanks. :xyxthumbs I bought a new 19.2v Craftsman cordless with my dad not long ago too.

[imported_edschwab1]

When I read the topic I thought you had tested the cordless orbital from Meguiars. If I were to use a cordless drill it would only be for small spots which require more attention. This reminds of the rotary polishers which have a drill shape like this Hitachi.



http://www.toolmarts.com/media/hit_sp18sa.jpg



Eric

[Steve @ Guru]

Originally posted by DavidB

This is one tough tool...It just keeps on running.





Looks like I`m going to have to buy a PC cordless drill - my "other" Makita (the replacement to the one that burned up) has definitely seen better days.

[marvin salud]

Where did you get the backing plate?

[Scott P]

I have an 18.8 volt Dewalt with a 1/2" chuck. I`m thinking my arms would wear out before the battery would. :D

[Bobby G]

Originally posted by millikan

Where did you get the backing plate?



You should be able to find the backing plate at any good tool supply.

[imported_Smoker]

The problem isnt with the toughness of the casing or the build quality of the drill.



Basically motors ( AC and DC) are built and wired for a specific duty.



A DC motor is designed for high starting torque, but get horrendously hot if run constantly for long periods of time.

A DC motor also uses `Brushes` (no not yard brushes!!!) and a commutator.

These again are designed for short, high torque bursts of activity.

Over time, usually measured in running hours, these will all wear out and need replacing.



Industrial applications get around this by starting a motor in one wiring arrangement then once its up and running, switching it over to `cruise mode` by changing the wiring by use of a contactor.



Theres all sorts of jargon to do with winding ratios, field strengths and the way and number of coils that are wound onto the rotor, but needless to say, each is specifically designed for a particular job.

Use it for something it isnt meant for, itll either wear out really quickly or just turn its toes up and die.

[CharlesW]

Isn`t this just another drill motor with backing plate in the chuck?

Granted, it may be a high quality drill and/or backing plate, but it sure doesn`t look to be of much value for automobile detailing.

If you can`t get the job done with the PC random orbital, you most likely need a real rotary.

I guess I just don`t see the value of this thing.

[admac]

i`ve used this kit (http://www.properautocare.com/foampadforyo.html) from proper auto care a few times and have had good results. i buffed out a lot of scuffing on my black motorcycle tank with this system and it worked out great. even with my weak feeble cordless drill. i think i actually prefer it to my orbital pc. i gotta pick up a good drill though.

[AndreaBees]

How fast does the drill go in term of RPM? And what would be a safe speed range to look for in a drill to be used for our applications?



Thanks in advance for the replies :xyxthumbs

[Degislek]

Holy Christ!!! Your paint looks great. Maybe I should have bought a drill instead of a PC (J/K)

[Onehole]

Is this not just like a direct drive buffer?......and as such should be avoided like the plague. Is it not detailing 101 that you need a random orbital buffer?



Did I miss something?