View Full Version : What to use after SMR??
WS6Fury
03-01-2003, 11:09 PM
What should I use after SMR`ing a car?
Usually I go straight to carnuba wax. What about everyone else??
How about 3M`s glaze? Is this good stuff. i got a bottle, but I may return it. Figured maybe glase the paint, then carnuba it. Or should I do something before the glaze??
Scottwax
03-01-2003, 11:14 PM
I use Clearkote`s Vanilla Moose between swirl removers and wax. Leaves the paint as wet looking as Meguiars Hand Polish (similar to 3Ms IHG), but much easier to use since the excess wipes off without smearing. It also leaves the paint real slick like S100 SEC/P21S SEPC, but has slightly more cutting power in case any slight scratches or swirls still remain after using an SMR.
Patrick
03-02-2003, 01:23 PM
Fury, I guess that all depends on what your level of satisfaction is....If you like the way it looks after SMR, go with your favorite sealer/wax.....Like Scott said, he prefers the Moosewax brand....(In still waiting on mine Scott, I bought due to your rave reviews!) I currently use BF II, thats what makes me...well, you know...happy ...:bounce
jcattarulla
03-02-2003, 04:37 PM
After SMR I would use a glaze like a #7, then wax.
Nick T.
03-02-2003, 06:19 PM
Originally posted by WS6Fury
What should I use after SMR`ing a car?If you`re looking for the very best final appearance you can top the SMR with something with a finer abrasive and some fillers such as P21S GEPC and then top that with a glaze that is all filler and no abrasive such as 3M IHG.
nate010753
03-03-2003, 07:40 AM
Just curious what purpose the GEPC would serve after SMR? what would it do for you I guess is the question that I am wondering about?
Nick T.
03-03-2003, 09:47 AM
Going from SMR to GEPC to IHG is like going from a low number sandpaper to a high number sandpaper to a burnishing cloth. Each step removes the marks left by the previous step.
SMR has mild abrasives and no filler. GEPC has very mild abrasives and filler & oils, IHG has fillers and oils, but no abrasives.
WS6Fury
03-03-2003, 06:20 PM
Okay, thanks everyone for the good info!
Now, btw these two items listed in this thread, moose wax, and GEPC, which one should I use after SMR. I want the best overall appearance I can possibly get! Are these two fine polishes somewhat similar, in that I can use a sealer afterwards, then wax?
Lookin4aTruck
03-03-2003, 07:21 PM
I just returned a bottle of the 3M perfect III polish/Glaze because I found it was very difficult to buff off. It required a great deal of pressure by hand and it still left a greasy like haze on the paint. It was hard to get off.
Scottwax
03-03-2003, 07:29 PM
Originally posted by WS6Fury
Okay, thanks everyone for the good info!
Now, btw these two items listed in this thread, moose wax, and GEPC, which one should I use after SMR. I want the best overall appearance I can possibly get! Are these two fine polishes somewhat similar, in that I can use a sealer afterwards, then wax?
I`ve used both S100 SEC and Vanilla Moose and I prefer Vanilla Moose...which, after talking to Mr. Glass, I have found will protect the paint. It does have protective properties. No wonder it leaves the paint so slick and smooth! You don`t have to top it unless you want to!
WS6Fury
03-03-2003, 11:36 PM
Originally posted by Scottwax
I`ve used both S100 SEC and Vanilla Moose and I prefer Vanilla Moose...which, after talking to Mr. Glass, I have found will protect the paint. It does have protective properties. No wonder it leaves the paint so slick and smooth! You don`t have to top it unless you want to!
Is this something that will negate the use of say Zaino, collinites, or any other good waxes when used in combination with? Or would I have to remove its protective properties first?
WS6Fury
03-05-2003, 09:51 AM
Oh yeah, is GEPC a polish and glaze? And is Moosewax a polish and glaze? Or are they both just polishes??
imported_memnuts
03-05-2003, 10:07 AM
Originally posted by WS6Fury
Oh yeah, is GEPC a polish and glaze? And is Moosewax a polish and glaze? Or are they both just polishes??
Both are very,very, very mild polishers (cleansers) and glazes. They both perform great. Work into surface until almost completely gone and buff remaining residue to a high gloss. Easy on and easy off. I can not answer which is better because I use a 3-step process Vanilla Moose, 3M IHG followed by P21S GEPC as my final prep.
On my daily drivers I use VM and GEPC by themselves and they work great alone also. I always top with a sealant or wax for added protection.:wavey
WS6Fury
03-05-2003, 11:25 AM
Originally posted by blkZ28Conv
Both are very,very, very mild polishers (cleansers) and glazes. They both perform great. Work into surface until almost completely gone and buff remaining residue to a high gloss. Easy on and easy off. I can not answer which is better because I use a 3-step process Vanilla Moose, 3M IHG followed by P21S GEPC as my final prep.
On my daily drivers I use VM and GEPC by themselves and they work great alone also. I always top with a sealant or wax for added protection.:wavey
wouldn`t IHG be after GEPC? I thought IHG was strictly a hand glaze with no polishing abilities?
imported_memnuts
03-05-2003, 11:39 AM
Originally posted by WS6Fury
wouldn`t IHG be after GEPC? I thought IHG was strictly a hand glaze with no polishing abilities?
Technically, IHG has no physical abrasives but it does have solvents that aid with its prepping of a finish. I have performed this task with IHG being the last applied or in the middle. My personal appearance and surface prep goals were met with GEPC being worked into the finish last. I also feared having too much oil remaining on the finish prior to application of my protective sealant and some of these oils are removed by the GEPC which itself has oils but its formulation is not as predominated by oils as an ingredient has in IHG. Also GEPC leaves such a even streak-free finish that any surface unevenness created by IHG is easily rectified.