Rust Converter

[Claude]

I have a little surface rust in my trunk of my 73 SS Malibu.I had seen a can of rust converter in an aeresol can at Autozone that says it converts rust into a paintable primer.Was thinkinng of using this product + a can trunk spatter paint.Has anyone used such products?Thanks for any input.JB

[samiam513]

it`s called POR 15. I saw it today on Trucks. The host had a piece of rusted, ,pitted metal which half was painted with POR15. He beat the crap out of the painted side with a hammer and no paint chipped off.



Looked like good stuff.



http://www.porstore.com/

[EDBSO]

Another interesting product that will work very well. (http://www.evapo-rust.com/)

[Accumulator]

Jeff Brown- I haven`t seen the aerosol converter you mentioned, but other converters work pretty well. I`ve used them with generally good results.



Other converters, besides those already mentioned, are available from Eastwood (www.eastwoodcompany.com) .



Whatever you use, be sure to follow the directions. You don`t want the rust festering under your spatter paint. I`ve found that the prep work is, per usual, more important than which product you use. And note that some converters don`t stick very well to UNRUSTED surfaces unless they are properly treated as per the manufacturer`s directions. A shop I use POR`ed a frame WITHOUT using the POR-brand prep stuff (prepped it carefully though, blasted, solvent, etch, etc.) and the POR peeled right off :eek: I prepped the same car`s suspension pieces (per POR`s directions)and the POR is adhering perfectly.

[meGrimlock]

Back when I had a `66 Corvair, and I was also doing some body work on my mom`s `83 Corolla, I used an aerosol product called Extend. It worked very well, and after the body work on the Corolla was finished, I have noticed no problems. I had done that 9 years ago, and I still regularly see the person that bought the car from my mom. I believe you can find it a AutoZone and PepBoys.

[shaf]

Another rust converter that might be easier to find at a Autozone/Pepboys type of place might be Extend by Loctite in a blue jar. I wouldn`t use spray on because of possible overspray though. I`d get the liquid, pour some out, then brush it on.



Like Accumulator said, don`t make the mistake of thinking you`re helping anything by sanding it down much first (exposing bare metal). It really does have to stick to rusted metal. Just wire brush it a bit or something.



You can always also prime it with a rust converter type of spray paint for extra insurance.



I`ve noticed also that (cheaper) "rust removal" products contain the same phosphoric acid as rust converters and also claim to leave a protective coating behind. They need rinsing, but other than that they seem to promise the same thing. What`s the difference? :nixweiss

[jimmybuffit]

I have a 1977 (11-76) Toyota Land Cruiser. It sat behind a barn, north of Fort Wayne, Indiana for over ten years.



POR-15 has been a saving grace for my feeble "restoration " efforts.



It has been on the truck for 2 years, sitting outside, and still has gloss... BTW, they don`t suggest that it has UV properties, and recommend paint w/ clearcoat...



I think it is the BOMB!



Jim

[Nagchampa]

I think you should grind or wire wheel the rust off before you use that stuff.