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tomp
08-04-2004, 08:50 AM
I just ordered a pc for my 04 Mitsu Endeavor. It`s dark red.

In March I clayed, AIO,SG, and P21S. Over the last 6 months I think I reapplied P21S twice and used PB QD+ after a few washes.

I intend on doing a good detail around labor day because I can keep the vehicle garaged for the entire weekend.

Condition of vehicle is very good. It`s dirty of course from all the rain in the NE. I have some faint scratches across the hood that are only visible at a very shallow angle in bright light or sun.

I`m thinking of the following:

Clay
SSR1 with a green Edge2000 pad
AIO with a Blue Edge2000 pad
UPP 2 coats with a Blue Edge2000 pad - 24 hours between coats.
P21S 1 coat. Blue Edge 2000 pad (possibly more to be applied just before winter.

I figured that the green pad is a light cut and should clean up the really faint marks. They go across the hood and appear to be made by hand. They do not look like they were generated by machine.

I have SG but I wanted to try UPP. I think it will last through the winter. I really don`t like applying SG because it`s a pain to remove. Of course I have the PC now and that shouldn`t be too much of a big deal. I really want to see if UPP is more to my liking at this time.

Anyway, I bought 3 blue Edge2000 pads and a white Edge 2000 pad. I figured on using blue pads as listed above. But I do have a white pad coming too for the high gloss I desire.

My question: What do I apply with it? Should I use the QD or apply another coat of P21S or is there another item that someone can recommend. I shouldn`t be buffing dry, right?

HondaMan
08-04-2004, 09:56 PM
Looks good to me....isn`t PS21 more of a "show wax" -- since it`s a truck and you have tough weather, what about letting the final layer be something tougher (acrylics, etc)?

tomp
08-04-2004, 10:24 PM
These are the defects that I want to get out.

tomp
08-04-2004, 10:27 PM
I think because I blew up the image so much that it looks worse than it really is. I cannot see the defects unless I`m at a shallow angle.

HondaMan
08-04-2004, 11:04 PM
What are they -- swirls?? How`d they get there -- hand washing/polishing? Or is that the natural pattern from rains and weathering???

tomp
08-05-2004, 02:41 PM
I`ve had those very faint marks since I bought the SUV new. They were there all the time you were looking at the vehicle in Massachucetts. Obviously they are not noticable unless you look at a very shallow angle in bright sunlight. I had to get the camera just right to see them. I cannot feel them. With my dark red paint I have to put more care into detailing. Light color vehicles like the silvers and greys don`t show these defects as easily.

Still waiting for suggestions but I`m guessing a green Edge 2000 pad with SSR1 should deal with this.

HondaMan
08-05-2004, 04:42 PM
I`m wary of giving out PC advice since I will be using mine next for the 1st time, but Green+SSR1 sounds right from all that I`ve read at DC and all our linked URL`s.

Didn`t know that about "light" colors...interesting...mine is magnesium metallic (gold+brownish color) and my mom`s is a black Camry so it will be interesting to take some before and afters on both cars this week and next. I hope I can borrow a digital camera and then upload them here.

CharlesW
08-05-2004, 05:03 PM
Originally posted by tomp
SSR1 with a green Edge2000 pad
AIO with a Blue Edge2000 pad
UPP 2 coats with a Blue Edge2000 pad - 24 hours between coats.
P21S 1 coat. Blue Edge 2000 pad (possibly more to be applied just before winter.

If you could describe the pads by their intended function rather than color, it would help some of us that don`t know what color of pads = what use.
My personal experience has been good with the following:
Swirl Remover - Polishing pad, speed 4 to 6 depending on how bad the swirls are.
AIO - Polishing pad, speed 4 to 5. (It`s so easy to use that hand application would not be a problem)
UPP - Finishing pad, speed 4 to 5. (Another product that is easy to hand apply)
P21S - I have used S100 which is supposedly about the same thing and I wouldn`t bother with the PC for applying it. IMO, it would be more work than doing it by hand.
The PC is great for liquids, but pastes require putting them on the pad which is somewhat of a nuisance, (IMO)
Read and follow the instructions for each product. None of them are used like your usual OTC product.
My feeling about the P21S topper is, why not just add more UPP once in a while? Once you put the P21S on the UPP, you need to strip it befor you can put more UPP on the vehicle. On my very dark blue Pontiac van, the S100 didn`t add enough extra to be worth not being able to apply more UPP. Not everyone will agree with that, though.

HondaMan
08-05-2004, 05:09 PM
Charles, is there any set rule about whatever you`re applying LAST -- say it`s UPP -- that you`re supposed to wait 24 hours before doing the 2nd coat?

Years ago, on my Vette, I used to double-wax right away (wax or Liquid Glass, whatever I had) and I could tell right away the improvement over a single coating. If I gave a coat of UPP or whatever I used as my finish a few hours to dry/stick, would I really be jumping the gun over waiting a full day?

CharlesW
08-05-2004, 05:16 PM
Originally posted by HondaMan
Charles, is there any set rule about whatever you`re applying LAST -- say it`s UPP -- that you`re supposed to wait 24 hours before doing the 2nd coat?
lol
I don`t think there are any set rules in detailng.
Products vary in what is recommended for drying or curing time.
UPP instructions say to wait 24 hours befor applying more.
That`s why it is important to read and follow the instructions.
AIO is a wipe on, wipe off product. So is S100/P21S.
UPP needs to dry at least 30 minutes to an hour.

tomp
08-05-2004, 09:26 PM
I`m not an expert in this at all but I`ve been doing a lot of reading on DC and other places.

Correct me if I`m wrong but UPP is a Polymer which means it has to go on after the surface has been prepped with a cleaner like AIO or Pro Polish. A Carnuba would prevent the Polymer from taking.

True?

I know that SG requires a surface prepped with AIO.

CharlesW
08-05-2004, 09:48 PM
Originally posted by tomp
Correct me if I`m wrong but UPP is a Polymer which means it has to go on after the surface has been prepped with a cleaner like AIO or Pro Polish. A Carnuba would prevent the Polymer from taking.

True? That seems to be the general consensus of opinion.
Several members have used 4 Star Ultimate Paint Cleaner as a prep for UPP with good results. :dunno
My combo has been Klasse AIO, then the UPP. Couldn`t be happier. Easy to use, looks good, lasts long enough for me, and doesn`t stain trim!!!

Charles

HondaMan
08-06-2004, 09:22 AM
Charles, how do you apply those -- by hand or by PC? I`m talking AIO, EX-P, and UPP.

Since most of them are easy, I`m wondering if it pays to do them by hand or machine.

EBPcivicsi
08-06-2004, 09:33 AM
I know that the pictures may make the defects appear worse than they are, but I think you may need SSR2 with the green pad. Then I would switch to a blue pad(assuming we are talking about edge pads here) with the SSR1, continue as planned

In the methods you are using, I would apply the SSR`s via PC, AIO by hand, and with UPP it is a toss up. I like to apply UPP via PC because it gives me a thiner layer and I find it to be faster.

HondaMan
08-06-2004, 09:38 AM
Hey, CivicSI, I have a brand new 2004 EX...any pointers or suggestions? Magnesium metallic color (goldish/brown).