imported_Luster
01-28-2003, 11:20 AM
Many of you saw my post over at Autopia University, showing off my engine bay pics. I was asked if I would write an article on painting and clearcoating parts in the engine compartment.
My 2001 Grand Prix started off pretty plain-Jane when the hood was opened. Actually, it was all a Dull-black, Dull-gray theme. Not really my style.
But I fixed that. When I popped the hood, I wanted people to say that phrase that comes from deep within the bowels of the soul……
OH…..MY……GOSH…….! or something equivalent….
http://www.autopia.org/gallery/data/500/6491p1010011.jpg
So here goes…….
Supplies…
1. Sandpaper…180, 220, 300, 600, 1000
2. Painter`s mask
3. PlastiKote Hi-Temp Engine Enamel (comes in 30 or 40 colors and clearcoat)
4. Drop cloths
5. Old sheets
6. Clean rags
7. Paint thinner
8. Simple Green
9. Some old engine parts or an old hood
10. 3M blue painter`s masking tape
Practice
1. Using old parts, follow these techniques and PRACTICE A LOT!!!
2. This can only help the finished product.
3. Mistakes WILL BE MADE. It`s unavoidable. (Why do you think my engine looks like that? It has about 20 coats of paint on it from all the mistakes I made!)
Preparation…
1. If you can remove the part, do so. It makes a much neater job.
2. For smooth surfaces start with 600 grit sandpaper and then move on to 1000. Dry sand then wet sand.
3. For rougher surfaces start with 180, 220, 300, 600, 1000. BEWARE…there is a lot of work involved in transforming a rough surface into a smooth surface! Be sure this is what you want before you start. (my engine cover was very rough………I`ve got over 15 hours just in the cover)… (if you go to my web-page, you can see the "show-cover", which has about 40-50 hours of labor in it...the black cover is the "BEATER" cover for everyday driving")
4. Sand to desired smoothness
5. Clean thoroughly with Simple Green and a clean rag.
6. Allow to dry before proceeding
Primer…
1. If possible, try to have a dust-free environment for your work.
2. Cover everything that you don`t want over-sprayed including your car.
3. Begin your primer using long, quick strokes from side to side, stopping the spray at each end.
4. Very Important………THIN COATS!
5. Trying to apply thick coats of paint will only bring on runs and heartache!
6. Let each coat dry thoroughly.
7. Lightly sand between coats.
8. Usually 2 coats of primer is sufficient.
Painting…
1. Essentially, follow the same exact steps as used in Primer…, except apply more coats.
2. I must stress………THIN COATS.
Clearcoating…
1. Clearcoating is the secret to a nice, clean-looking, shiney engine bay.
2. Follow the same exact procedures used in Painting… and be sure to lightly sand between coats.
3. Very Thin Coats.
4. Patience!
If you are Clearcoating "Factory-Painted" items…
1. Start with 600 grit and go to 1000 grit, wet and dry.
2. Clean completely with Simple Green and a clean rag.
3. Let dry thoroughly.
4. Apply clearcoat just as you would paint. Long, quick, side-to-side strokes.
5. Thin Coats!
6. The more coats you apply, the shinier your end product will be.
DO`s & DON`T`s…
:up DO…Cover everything with drop-cloths
DO…Wear a painter`s mask
DO…Use long, quick, side-to-side strokes
DO…Apply THIN coats.
DO…Practice on some old or used parts first.
DO…Expect to make a few mistakes the first time
DO…Be patient. (I have over 100 hours in the painting of my engine bay, not including weekend cleanings).
DO…As much as possible, try to work in a dust-free environment
DO…Allow plenty of drying time between coats
:nono DON`T…Get in a hurry!
DON`T…touch your painted work before it is dry
DON`T…paint or clearcoat any rubber wires, hoses, belts, wiper blades, etc. Mask them off before painting or clearcoating.
DON`T…apply your coats too THICK.
RUNS… The dilemma of a man in a hurry…
1. If the paint or clearcoat has a run, you might as well figure you have to re-do the part so begin by wiping it with a rag and paint thinner.
2. Keep wiping until the surface is clean again.
3. Start over with the sanding process.
4. Start over with the painting / Clearcoat process.
5. You must be patient.
There will be a lot of Trial and Error in this process. Don`t expect a miracle the first time out.
I have done lots of artwork and painting in my life so I may have a slight edge, but, if you have patience (which you must have in order to be a true detailing enthusiast!), you should be just fine by following these guidelines.
Words of advice:
If you don`t practice, your askin` for trouble.
PATIENCE, PATIENCE, PATIENCE
Final thought......if you have an air-brush, you can do an even better job, but it`s not necessary. I did my entire engine bay with "rattle-cans".
Good Luck.......
Bill.......:cool:
My 2001 Grand Prix started off pretty plain-Jane when the hood was opened. Actually, it was all a Dull-black, Dull-gray theme. Not really my style.
But I fixed that. When I popped the hood, I wanted people to say that phrase that comes from deep within the bowels of the soul……
OH…..MY……GOSH…….! or something equivalent….
http://www.autopia.org/gallery/data/500/6491p1010011.jpg
So here goes…….
Supplies…
1. Sandpaper…180, 220, 300, 600, 1000
2. Painter`s mask
3. PlastiKote Hi-Temp Engine Enamel (comes in 30 or 40 colors and clearcoat)
4. Drop cloths
5. Old sheets
6. Clean rags
7. Paint thinner
8. Simple Green
9. Some old engine parts or an old hood
10. 3M blue painter`s masking tape
Practice
1. Using old parts, follow these techniques and PRACTICE A LOT!!!
2. This can only help the finished product.
3. Mistakes WILL BE MADE. It`s unavoidable. (Why do you think my engine looks like that? It has about 20 coats of paint on it from all the mistakes I made!)
Preparation…
1. If you can remove the part, do so. It makes a much neater job.
2. For smooth surfaces start with 600 grit sandpaper and then move on to 1000. Dry sand then wet sand.
3. For rougher surfaces start with 180, 220, 300, 600, 1000. BEWARE…there is a lot of work involved in transforming a rough surface into a smooth surface! Be sure this is what you want before you start. (my engine cover was very rough………I`ve got over 15 hours just in the cover)… (if you go to my web-page, you can see the "show-cover", which has about 40-50 hours of labor in it...the black cover is the "BEATER" cover for everyday driving")
4. Sand to desired smoothness
5. Clean thoroughly with Simple Green and a clean rag.
6. Allow to dry before proceeding
Primer…
1. If possible, try to have a dust-free environment for your work.
2. Cover everything that you don`t want over-sprayed including your car.
3. Begin your primer using long, quick strokes from side to side, stopping the spray at each end.
4. Very Important………THIN COATS!
5. Trying to apply thick coats of paint will only bring on runs and heartache!
6. Let each coat dry thoroughly.
7. Lightly sand between coats.
8. Usually 2 coats of primer is sufficient.
Painting…
1. Essentially, follow the same exact steps as used in Primer…, except apply more coats.
2. I must stress………THIN COATS.
Clearcoating…
1. Clearcoating is the secret to a nice, clean-looking, shiney engine bay.
2. Follow the same exact procedures used in Painting… and be sure to lightly sand between coats.
3. Very Thin Coats.
4. Patience!
If you are Clearcoating "Factory-Painted" items…
1. Start with 600 grit and go to 1000 grit, wet and dry.
2. Clean completely with Simple Green and a clean rag.
3. Let dry thoroughly.
4. Apply clearcoat just as you would paint. Long, quick, side-to-side strokes.
5. Thin Coats!
6. The more coats you apply, the shinier your end product will be.
DO`s & DON`T`s…
:up DO…Cover everything with drop-cloths
DO…Wear a painter`s mask
DO…Use long, quick, side-to-side strokes
DO…Apply THIN coats.
DO…Practice on some old or used parts first.
DO…Expect to make a few mistakes the first time
DO…Be patient. (I have over 100 hours in the painting of my engine bay, not including weekend cleanings).
DO…As much as possible, try to work in a dust-free environment
DO…Allow plenty of drying time between coats
:nono DON`T…Get in a hurry!
DON`T…touch your painted work before it is dry
DON`T…paint or clearcoat any rubber wires, hoses, belts, wiper blades, etc. Mask them off before painting or clearcoating.
DON`T…apply your coats too THICK.
RUNS… The dilemma of a man in a hurry…
1. If the paint or clearcoat has a run, you might as well figure you have to re-do the part so begin by wiping it with a rag and paint thinner.
2. Keep wiping until the surface is clean again.
3. Start over with the sanding process.
4. Start over with the painting / Clearcoat process.
5. You must be patient.
There will be a lot of Trial and Error in this process. Don`t expect a miracle the first time out.
I have done lots of artwork and painting in my life so I may have a slight edge, but, if you have patience (which you must have in order to be a true detailing enthusiast!), you should be just fine by following these guidelines.
Words of advice:
If you don`t practice, your askin` for trouble.
PATIENCE, PATIENCE, PATIENCE
Final thought......if you have an air-brush, you can do an even better job, but it`s not necessary. I did my entire engine bay with "rattle-cans".
Good Luck.......
Bill.......:cool: