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ultrajim49
01-06-2003, 08:54 AM
Those who read my review of the BO6040 ( http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16906 ) know that I have a hood to test things on.

The center part was my test area for wet-sanding.I have never done this before, but learned a lot since then:up .



The sanding paper = Picture 1:

http://www.autopia.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=1056&papass=&sort=1



Picture 2: after sanding:

http://www.autopia.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=1057&papass=&sort=1



I let the sanding paper soak in plain water for a half hour.

With a sponge I wet the area to be sanded, as I was sanding, the surface dries, therefor I held a spritz-bottle with a soapy mix(just like claying) to wet the area again.

I folded the sandingpaper around a kitchen sponge to get a better grip and for better distributing the "force".

I think a rubber sanding block would have been better still, for a more even finish.



Picture 3:compounding:

http://www.autopia.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=1058&papass=&sort=1



After drying the surface you need to compound to get the sanding marks out: 3M fine cut with wool pad (Makita-wool pad)

As you can see there is a haze left by the compound.

Perfectly normal.



Picture 4: polishing:

http://www.autopia.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=1059&papass=&sort=1



To get the compounding haze out you need to polish: 3M machine polish, and Megiuars polishing pad

the apearance improves greatly.



Picture 5:glazing

http://www.autopia.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=1060&papass=&sort=1



Glazed this hood starts to look like something "Autopian", allthough you can clearly see scratches wich go straight through the clear:sosad



Picture 6: the result after waxing:

http://www.autopia.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=1061&papass=&sort=1



After Meguiars Gold Class paste wax: shows that imperfections (scratches) are not hidden with waxing:D

That`s about the best I could get that hood





What have I learned?

I have learned that wetsanding isn`t something to be afraid off, providing you use the wright steps in the wright order, this is VERRY agressive , and will surely take alot of clear away, but sometimes something as abrasive as this might be nececeary(sp?)



Christiaan

Lowejackson
01-09-2003, 10:21 AM
Excellent article :xyxthumbs



The before and after pics are amazing.



Steven

ultrajim49
01-09-2003, 03:45 PM
Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay OT:

Hi , Lowejackson

Congrats on your 1000th post the night before your wedding:xyxthumbs

:bounce = for tomorrownight?



On topic: thanks for the heads up



Christiaan

jerry@robs
02-17-2003, 04:43 AM
Great post dude... :)



I wetsanded my hood a year and a half ago and I love how it looks now...



http://images.cardomain.com/installs/165000-165999/165153_113_full.jpg



http://images.cardomain.com/installs/165000-165999/165153_10_full.jpg

ultrajim49
02-17-2003, 04:53 AM
Looking mighty good:xyxthumbs :bow



Christiaan

AndreaBees
02-19-2003, 08:12 PM
cvcaelen: did you use your Makita orbital to conpound, polish and glaze the wetsanded areas? I always thought you needed a rotary to remove sanding marks.



theveed: where`d you get fine grit sandpaper here in the phils?

jerry@robs
02-19-2003, 09:53 PM
Green: You can get them in car paint stores. Simex has them as well but of course they overpriced it a little, but it`s still cheap at P20 a piece... compared to the outrageous UniGrit papers.

ultrajim49
02-21-2003, 02:09 AM
Originally posted by green

cvcaelen: did you use your Makita orbital to conpound, polish and glaze the wetsanded areas? I always thought you needed a rotary to remove sanding marks.



theveed: where`d you get fine grit sandpaper here in the phils?



Yes, I did,



the Makita has not the speed of a rotary, but with it`s forced rotation and a 750Watts motor(you can put pressure on the orbital) and some time, it works

Mind you, the hood was BNR(beyond normal repair:D )but I could get the most of the scratches out.

The sanding marks were completely removed with the compound

Machine polisch could be buffed to a high shine.



If only the freezing would stop so I can give my car "the treatment"



Christiaan

jerry@robs
02-21-2003, 02:18 AM
Originally posted by cvcaelen

If only the freezing would stop so I can give my car "the treatment"



Christiaan



Bah Chris... you`re hard core enough to treat your car even if the weather is chilly... :):xyxthumbs

ultrajim49
02-21-2003, 02:27 AM
Originally posted by theveed

Bah Chris... you`re hard core enough to treat your car even if the weather is chilly... :):xyxthumbs



minus 4 centigrade at noon realy is a tat too cold,

this week-end however we`ll have a heatwave:8 Centigrade :bounce



Christiaan

ByndCln
03-05-2003, 05:36 PM
All I can say is wow :shocked .

Great step by steps, now I am tempted

Not that good yet though.

maybe on a beater

imported_Kyle
08-01-2003, 09:00 AM
interesting thread!



I have lots of swirls that I couldn`t get rid of with DACP,#9+pc.

I wasn`t happy with the result of DACP and wondering if I should try wetsanding this time. Do you think it`ll work? I`m too scared to use wetsanding :(

Gonzo
09-12-2003, 07:13 AM
Looky here:



http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/mmr_sheets.htm



for super fine papers

spetulla
12-01-2003, 11:56 PM
i just got two packs (25 sheets in EACH pack) of unigrit 2000 and 3000 for 20 SHIPPED from a guy on ebay who sells them. Might wanna look into that. I got mine so he is legit.

madazskunk
12-02-2003, 12:13 AM
Originally posted by MildSeven

interesting thread!



I have lots of swirls that I couldn`t get rid of with DACP,#9+pc.

I wasn`t happy with the result of DACP and wondering if I should try wetsanding this time. Do you think it`ll work? I`m too scared to use wetsanding :(





Try using 3m medium cut compound. I have gotten good results with it and yellow pad on pc. This is the most aggressive product I have tried with the pc and it handles it fine. I don`t know how much more aggressive you can get with a pc but medium cut is not a problem at all.