Swirl Removal w/ Rotary

[imported_Intel486]

These pics were taken awhile ago and sitting on my camera. I just got around to resizing them and posting this. It was awhile ago as you can see "The Wall" in the background and it still has the forms on it, which were removed last week sometime. Check the Hot Tub forum for more information on "The Wall"



I normally don`t get to work on my truck a lot. Most of the time I`m washing it with the help of Flood Lights. Got some pictures of me working under flood lights. Very Difficult! and the bugs sure like burning hot, bright lights!



My truck is never in a complete state of detail. In fact, right now it is probably the closest it has ever been! The interior is actually in a full state of detail! Quite amazing if you ask me. I usually get to do just one step on the truck and then it is awhile till I do the next.



I used Pro`s Creamy Cutter on my truck a long time ago but never got around to coming back with a polish to remove the swirls from it. You can see them on the paint as well as many other swirls from washing, drying and other things (My bedcover serves as a great table!).



I first did the right side. You can see the section I worked on is swirl free while the left has them still. Had to use my hand to block the sun. This is one of the best angles for seeing swirls BTW.



I did this running the Rotary at 1700 RPMS w/ Pro`s Yellow Waffle Cutting pad and Creamy Cutter. I went back over it again at same speed with Pro`s Flat Black Finishing Pad and their Swirl Eliminator and Polish.



http://www.goldenshinedetailing.com/images/bedcoverswirlsright.jpg



Now, lets tackle the left side. Here you can see the swirls nicely and I figured out to use a towel to block the sun`s reflection.



http://www.goldenshinedetailing.com/images/swirlsbedcover1.jpg



Now, I ran the buffer with medium pressure, around 1700 RPMs and a Yellow Waffle Cutting pad. I moved the buffer in an H pattern. I move it up and down, then back and forth, and then up and down again, incase my H pattern thing needed explaining. Use an overlapping pattern too. I`ll also be heating up the paint some. It doesn`t get so hot though that I can`t hold my hand on the paint.



In this paint you can see the marks from where the buffer ran. You`ll get these marks when using a heavy cutting compound because the abrasives are larger or if you are using a cutting pad as they can actually swirls also. You can also get these marks when polishing for many reasons.



http://www.goldenshinedetailing.com/images/swirlsbedcover2.jpg



Next I pulled out the Black Flat Finishing Pad and ran it over the paint with Pro`s Swirl Eliminator and Polish. I start off using medium pressure for the first two passes and then the last one I let up a little. Again, H pattern, overlapping passes, 1700RPMs, etc. I move the pad at a speed though that the paint doesn`t heat up really.



http://www.goldenshinedetailing.com/images/swirlsbedcover3.jpg

[Tim Lingor]

Hey Intel!

Yup! I know those marks well!!:(

One of these days when the weather warms up a little, I will try it again! I still have no idea what the heck is happening to cause my buffing pads to grab, but I am working on it!!



But I am glad to see that you can get those marks out! Looks good Intel!

[imported_Intel486]

Originally posted by Andre`

2hotford Here is a good thread on rotary usage. http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12377 (http://)



link messed up for me.



http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12377

[Tim Lingor]

Thanks guys!

Actually, I have read that thread a few times.



Andre---I get the same marks as Intel. I know I could get rid of them if I could figure out why my buffer keeps grabbing the paint, pulling me and itself all over the place. It seems like the pad is getting sticky. I continually clean it, and make sure I prime it before use. But still the grabbing!!



Funny, I have 25-30 high end power tools. I can make almost anything out of wood, metal etc... But that darn buffer is really starting to get to me!!



I refuse to resort to the PC for removing the holograms! I know it can be done, but what am I doing wrong?? And that darn grabbing...!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[imported_Intel486]

Originally posted by 2hotford

Thanks guys!

Actually, I have read that thread a few times.



Andre---I get the same marks as Intel. I know I could get rid of them if I could figure out why my buffer keeps grabbing the paint, pulling me and itself all over the place. It seems like the pad is getting sticky. I continually clean it, and make sure I prime it before use. But still the grabbing!!



Funny, I have 25-30 high end power tools. I can make almost anything out of wood, metal etc... But that darn buffer is really starting to get to me!!



I refuse to resort to the PC for removing the holograms! I know it can be done, but what am I doing wrong?? And that darn grabbing...!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Can you describe how you are doing it again?



I got the hologram marks in the one pic from using a heavy cutter. They go away after you use a Finishing Pad and a Swirl Remover.



hmmm... How much pressure are you applying and are you keeping the pad flat on the paint? I still don`t know why it would be grabbing and leaping around. Maybe you`re just too weak to use the rotary :D

[Tim Lingor]

Too Weak???!!! Your mama didn`t think so!!:D LOL!!!



I will start from the beginning:



I am using a Meg`s W9000 pad ( a beige, 8" ,colored Foam Finishing pad).

I am using Meg`s DACP, then on a clean Finishing pad, I finish with Meg`s #9 Swirl Remover. I am using 1000RPM; I even tried going up to 1500 rpm.



After the first cross-hatch pattern completed, I go back for a second pass(another cross hatch pattern), that is when the pad begins to grab! It is like the pad is becoming sticky. So I wipe up the pad with a Terry cloth towel. But the pad still grabs!



I have zero problems with my PC. BUT, it does not give the same finish a rotary can give! Hence my refusal to give up on the rotary!!



Any ideas? Have you experienced or heard of such a problem?



C`mon, help a rookie!!! PLEASE!!!!!

[imported_Intel486]

Originally posted by 2hotford

After the first cross-hatch pattern completed, I go back for a second pass(another cross hatch pattern), that is when the pad begins to grab! It is like the pad is becoming sticky. So I wipe up the pad with a Terry cloth towel. But the pad still grabs!





What do you do in you first cross-hatch pattern?



Work a 2` by 2` section. Do an up and down pattern, then side to side, and then up and down again. At this point the polish should be all but gone and you can stop. Buff the residue up and inspect your work.



How much pressure are you apply? You think the pad could be skipping because you`re applying too much pressure? or are you too weak to apply too much pressure? :D Make sure you`re keeping the pad flat also. Maybe that is causing it to skip.



What part of the vehicle are you working on also? The hood is easiest to work on. The side panels are somewhat difficult.



For cleaning the pad you want to get a stiff, nylon brush. A paint brush with the bristles cut down short works very well and is what I use. You don`t want to use a brush with metal bristles at all. Just hold the buffer so the back of it is supported on your knee and turn it on. Just slide the brush from the center of the pad to the outside of the pad. A lot of dust should fly off the pad.



You don`t want to be using soo much polish that the pad is loaded with it. My pad stays relatively dry a lot of the time. I usually end up running the brush over it every two or three sections.



How big of a section do you work?



How much polish are you using for that section?

[Tim Lingor]

Well I just did a 2` by 2` section to try it.

I do the up and down, then side to side, then up and down again. But, sometimes I do more, as the polish still does not seem to have been broken down yet.



For the 2` by 2`, I make one thin swirl around the pad, smear it on the surface of the paint, then go to it.



I tried easing up on the pressure. I used, basically, just the buffer`s weight. I have tried more, and less pressure.



.....it still grabs!!! What`s up with that???



Oh, I am 225 lbs, 6` and can Curl(straight bar) 130lbs for 8 reps.

Maybe you need to ask your sister....!!!:D



Thanks bud! I know that I am a PITA, but I will repay the favor when you do your stereo, I promise!!!

[imported_Intel486]

Originally posted by 2hotford

Well I just did a 2` by 2` section to try it.

I do the up and down, then side to side, then up and down again. But, sometimes I do more, as the polish still does not seem to have been broken down yet.



For the 2` by 2`, I make one thin swirl around the pad, smear it on the surface of the paint, then go to it.



I tried easing up on the pressure. I used, basically, just the buffer`s weight. I have tried more, and less pressure.



.....it still grabs!!! What`s up with that???



Oh, I am 225 lbs, 6` and can Curl(straight bar) 130lbs for 8 reps.

Maybe you need to ask your sister....!!!:D



Thanks bud! I know that I am a PITA, but I will repay the favor when you do your stereo, I promise!!!



hmmm... Maybe the pads. I don`t know. I`ve never used Meguiar`s pads before.

[jerry@robs]

Originally posted by 2hotford



I am using a Meg`s W9000 pad ( a beige, 8" ,colored Foam Finishing pad).

I am using Meg`s DACP, then on a clean Finishing pad, I finish with Meg`s #9 Swirl Remover. I am using 1000RPM; I even tried going up to 1500 rpm.





I`m no expert but I do have the W9000 at my disposal, as well as DACP and a rotary... the W9000 is quite "grabby" in my experience as well, even if you just use it for glazing purposes (which is what I do with my W9000 most of the time). The cell structure of this pad is pretty tight and soft and it doesn`t like pressure that much.



I would suggest on switching to a W8000 or a 3M Waffle pad instead if you`d like to reduce such instances.



My W7000 and 8000 rarely "grabs" with DACP or #66... But the W9000 does quite often especially on vertical panels.

[imported_Intel486]

Originally posted by theveed

I`m no expert but I do have the W9000 at my disposal, as well as DACP and a rotary... the W9000 is quite "grabby" in my experience as well, even if you just use it for glazing purposes (which is what I do with my W9000 most of the time). The cell structure of this pad is pretty tight and soft and it doesn`t like pressure that much.



I would suggest on switching to a W8000 or a 3M Waffle pad instead if you`d like to reduce such instances.



My W7000 and 8000 rarely "grabs" with DACP or #66... But the W9000 does quite often especially on vertical panels.



Looks like theveed might have solved your problem 2hotford!

[Tim Lingor]

Thanks guys,

I am off once again to the auto parts store to try some waffle pads!



I still like the Meg`s W9006 finishing pad with the PC as it leaves a beautiful finish.



BUT I want to use the Rotary! IT IS A MATTER OF PRIDE NOW!!!

I used to use the M8000 pads and had minor problems, but I wanted the W9000 for its finishing capabilities. Well, I`ll use the W9006 for the PC and check out the waffle pads for the Rotary!



I will keep you posted!! Thanks again guys!!!