PDA

View Full Version : Non clear coated Porsche



autowax
11-11-2002, 12:36 AM
Boy my head is spinning from reading all these days!

I have learned a lot in the process...I wish this site was around when I had my heavily oxidized 944 and never managed to make her look good...



However being the newbie that I am I`m confused about the process on non clear coated cars like my guards red 993.

The car looks good from far away but on closer inspection many swirl marks reveal their ugly head... In the past using a good wax and cleaner almost every two weeks I thought it was good enough and using el cheapo terry towels washed with softener(oh my) I managed to put more swirls on than a hagen das swirl heaven have...

It is clear what I have to do:

wash with dawn, clay, wash with dawn use SMR or the other harder stuff (sorry new to using acros) and then wax?



What is not clear, given the fact of the non clear coat, are the following:



1. Do I use a PC for all of the above or just my hand in fear or not removing a lot of paint?

2. Do I stick with the SMR or go initially with the finess it . I really do not want to remove too much paint . reading from the posts in the archives even the supossedly mild SMR removes paint on non clear coated cars. So should i bite the bullet and go with the harder stuff from the get go?

3. There is a lot of talk about the S100 or P21S looking good on red cars like mine. However I have read that Zaino offers better protection but it does not look particularly good on red.



My biggest concern( read paranoia) is future maintenance. What i mean is that in the event of new swirls after I`m done with the ritual. Are there any intervals on using the swirl removers on non clear coated surfaces given the fact that paint is removed everytime??



:nixweiss

imported_BretFraz
11-11-2002, 12:47 AM
The products and techniques one uses on single stage paint is the same as clearcoated multi-stage paint. Nothing changes.



If you want to remove swirls, stains, and oxidation you have to remove some paint. There`s no way around it. The same happens with clearcoats too. I`d definitely use the PC as it will make the job easier and more consistent.



SMR vs. FI2 will be determined by the condition of your paint and how it reacts to those products. Do a test on a small section using the PC to judge results and use the product that does the job you need it to do. I`ve understood Porsche paint to be quite soft so maybe use a less aggressive polish and work it harder, but that`s just a start. Feel free to experiment.



As for carnauba vs. sealant, that`s a never-ending debate. Both have their supporters and detractors. Frankly, your car will look terrific with either product as long as you prep the paint correctly and completely. No amount of fancy wax will improve a lousy prep job. One point to consider about Zaino is that it needs a complete commitment to the product line in order to get max results. That means about $70 in product. If you don`t want to make that commitment then buy a jar of S100 for $15 at your local Harley store and use whatever polishes you have for now. When you start to get more discriminating then consider other products.



Good luck. Post some pics when you are done.

mrdetailer
11-12-2002, 12:46 AM
My 1991 Blaze Red Mazda is conventional. I`m glad it is because many of the clear coats of that vintage have flaked off requiring repainting. It really looks fantistic when well prepared, but it definitely comes with some disadvantages. The largest being that almost everything brings up color into whatever pad you use. Here`s what I do to minimize color transfers.



1. Go with the least agressive product that will do the job. In this case try SMR first, then the FI only if needed.



2. Change pads fairly often if the color becomes brilliant. I do it much more often on the conventional coat since it seems to fill up faster.



3. Once the swirls are removed use less abrasive glazes as long as possible. I`ve found that with good care swirl mark removers are necessary every other year.



4. Use a synthetic sealant as a base coat like Klasse AIO, or Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish. Don`t be surprized if some color comes up since it will be cleaning the paint a little. Sealants as a base coat last longer, and seem to prevent oxidation better.



5. Now, I haven`t tried every wax on the market of course, but most liquids I`ve tried bring up color. The ONLY liquid that doesn`t bring up color in my experience is the new Blackfire Paint Protectant. Carnauba pastes like P21S or Meguiars #26 don`t bring up any color either. For me that`s a Plus.



6. Personal preference for me is sealants topped by a carnauba.



Play around a little and see what works best on your vehicle.