Help moron with Oxidation?

[tarnation]

I`m trying to fix up a `86 944 that used to be red. The paint looks kinda dull/chalky with white spots some as large as nickels on horizontal panles and dull look on the vertical panels. The spots look as if water beaded up on the finish and left permanent white marks. There is no cracking or peeling look to the paint.



I have an acquaintance who does touch-up paint work for several places including the local BMW dealer. He seems to be ok, maybe not the very best. He looked at the car and tried some type of medium/mild 3M rubbing compound and that patch looks ok. He told me he could do the car for me, or I could get some clearcoat safe rubbing compound and do it myself.



On griots site the say not to use rubbing compounds at all. Now I`m like a deer in headlights; do I let him do it? Or do it myself using rubbing compounds? Or something similar to griots polishes? Should I invest in a Orbital?



Thanks in advance,

Todd

[rolle4]

Since the paint is dull and chalky you will have to remove a considerable amount of oxidation. To do this by hand will be difficult and quite labor intensive. A PC would be almost an essential tool for this type of work. I would heartly suggest you start there. As for type of polishing material, I would probably begin with Meguiars DACP followed by SMR if there is any remaining haze from the DACP. I`ve found that in most cases I won`t need to polish further after the DACP. Just be sure to fully work the polishes until they break down completely. The next step would be to protect the finish with either a polymer or a good carnauba wax or a combination of the two. (polymer with a carnauba topper). Good luck and be sure to take before and after pics. :xyxthumbs

[ashsarna]

Brokerbh has good advice on suggesting a PC and DACP. I would add that I had oxidation on my wheels (which were clear coated), and used 3M fine cut rubbing compound. The water spots and marks, that I thought were going to be there always just wiped away. I applied some good wax after that for protection. You will have to test the product in a small area first and see it for yourself - maybe even by hand just to feel comfortable with how effective the product is.

[2wheelsx2]

I would try a small spot with DACP with a PC. If it`s not working well, you`re going to have to go to a medium or heavy cut compound first. DACP is not strong enough for severe oxidation. You would be there all day....don`t ask me how I know. :)

[clint]

Another good safe easy first step in rescuing a neglected car is to use nu-finish polish on it- you`ve seen it at target and wal-mart in the orange bottle..

It is a really safe first step in getting the worst of the oxides off, and leaves the paint ready for what ever else you need to do with more `autopian` products and means to get it back to the land of the living. It`s great for painted wheels too..



I think it gets the oxides off more with solvents than abrasives- but I`m not sure about that.. Whatever the case- it seems to take only the oxide off and leaves the paint relatively shiny.. It`s way safer and less work than compound- as a first step anyway..

[BillNorth]

jngrbrdman posted a thread of b4 and after shots of a red car he detailed with severly oxidized paint. I believe he said all he used was 2 or 3 coats of AIO with a PC and cutting pad to remove the oxidation and "chalky" look. The b4 and after difference was incredible. Truly outstanding. Try searching for the thread.

[shaf]

I would go for either DACP or 3M Medium Oxidation Remover Wax (do a search on this last one). Both can remove oxidation while also polishing the surface, which sounds like a good idea to me since if the finish is that neglected a polishing job is probably in order. I think that either of these products or 3M Fine Cut (the strongest among these btw) would save you time and work over something milder, especially if you`re doing it by hand.



Griot`s makes a broad statement (just like Carcareonline too!) not to use rubbing compounds, but ignores the fact that rubbing compounds come in finer grades other than "coarse sandpaper". :rolleyes:

[clint]

- just don`t use that red rubbing compound that comes in a tub- usually sold by turtle wax-- That stuff is pretty much sand in some red base..



When somebody says not to use compound- that stuff is probably what they are talking about- it`s hard core-- good for getting rust off of old anvils and horse shoes you may dig up- but not safe for clear coat..

[B737GDog]

My `89 928GT is guards red and does not have a clear coat. I do not know if your 944 has a clear coat or not. Good luck.

[tarnation]

OK, I have been doing much reading and learning and am considering getting a PC. I still have a couple of concerns. Large body panels I think I could do, but what about obstacles like badges/lettering/trim, gaps between panels and areas that have textured paint like rocker panels below doors on 944? Do you have to do them by hand? Thanks for all the help and hand-holding. I hope to get before and after pics for the forum.

[clint]

For alot of the little nit-pick areas like badges and gaps you mentioned, you will need to do by hand- The big white foam pad can go over badges safely, but the pc can`t get right up against the border of badge/paint.

Fingers, rags, you get the idea. The good news is that after you get the major oxidation off, since you`ll maintain the car finish, it will never be as hard to get right as this first time is going to be.



My wife has (had - i stole `em) some cotton swabs that had the cotton made into points- for manicurists or something.. I think they came from target. Those are the bomb for right against badges.

[zirpsplace]

This is great info, I have a similar situation and I was about to ask the same question but I saw this post.



Thanks guys!