ultrajim49
08-23-2002, 12:39 AM
.Updated 27/02/2003
Lots of questions are being asked about Zaino, and many times the same Q`s.
As I was a novice once I thought it might be a good idea to summerize the steps involved when someone takes the step towards Zaino.
I do not claim this to be the one and only perfect product, I just tried to write a guide-line.
The Zaino-route manual
No matter what condition your car is in :
Step 1:
Wash your car
It realy doesn’t matter what soap you’re using because this wash is only ment to take dirt and dust away , just rince well .
Work in the shade the whole time as much as possible.
Step 2:
Clay your car
Right after you ‘ve washed you can start claying you can even let the car be wet , clay needs lube anyway.
I’m not going to explain the clay method , but only this : do it minitious, be as thorough as you can so that you don’t miss any spots
What brand of clay you use doesn’t matter , but as Zaino is a system where everything works well together , then Z18 is not a bad choice, a bit hard to fold maybe,cleans realy well though.
Step 3:
Wash your car again
Again , it realy doesn’t matter what soap you use ‘cause this isn’t the last wash before Z.But this time dry the car as good as you can.
Maybe some will call this step overkill , but it takes the clayresidue away for sure.
It is prefered to let the car dry overnight, you don’t want water comming out of crevices with the next step.Drying with a leaf-blower, running around a bit are allso means for drying the car faster if you do not have time.(Allthough I would not suggest driving aroud as you collect dust againâ€)
Step 4:
Paint prep time
I’m not going to explain , David’s book is the reference on this.
What realy matters is that you do it as good as you can , by PC(preferred) or by hand (LOT’s of work & time) doesn’t matter.But remember that this is THE most important step in the whole process.
The way you leave your finish at the end of this process will be magnified by Zaino , optical perfect,remember?
Step 5:
Last wash
Now is the actual start of the Z-procedure
For this wash it is recommend to use DAWN, or an other dishwashing-liquid.Choose a dishwashing-liquid with no additives like hand-softners,flavors&nice smells,extra shine capacities for drinking-glaces ,†No, just plain simple dishwashing-liquid like for example Blue Dawn.
Two ounces in a 3-gallon bucket should do the trick : the reason for this wash is to get the paint free from oils,fillers and whatever was on it before Step 1.Zaino wants to bond with your paint and doesn’t want to bond with old waxes.Claying and polishing took away alot of it , but unfortunately polishing replaced some fillers , therefore : dawn-wash.
If you do it wright the first time , this will be the only time you’ll be Dawn-washing(unless you need to remove swirls & scratches later on :as time goes by your paint will be under attack.Then after repairing these “attacks†Dawn wash may be needed)
Remember by the start of Step 5 you have a perfect (or as near as) finish , use the perfect washing & drying techniques from now on : you don’t want to induce new swirls , do you?
Prefered to let the car dry overnight : see allso the end of Step 3.
Step 6:
Applying &buffing Zaino
First decide what you want to use : Z1 or ZFX :should You use Z1 there’s no need for ZFX and vice-versa , it’s up to you, but for the first application you NEED to use one of them .
What’s the diffrence then?
Well , if you choose ZFX you have the option to apply up to 3 layers a day , there’s no need for waiting in between layers ‘cause there’s no dry & cure-time.And after the first layers you can continue without ZFX(recomended re-use after 10 coats or so)but with dry-and cure time
If you choose Z1 then you first put on a coat of Z1 ,no need to let dry immeadiatly follow with Z2( Z3 if you have a non-clearcoated car) or Z5 .Again only do this the first time and then after a 10 or so layers.Once the Z2 or Z5 is on , let dry.This can be an hour , or more.You can tell that it’s ready to be buffed off when a crystal clear finish appears right after you wiped your finger over a hazed section.If it smears , wait longer , maybe pull your car out in the sun : Z will dry faster and will remove easyer.
You choose ZFX?
Start by mixing an ounce of Z2 or Z5 in a vial and add 4 drops of ZFX.
Close the vial good(!!!) and shake for at least a minute.Let rest for about 5 minutes.In the mean time get your applicator , stepstool,MF’s,â€ready.Drink a coffee â€
Shake well again and start applying.
After the whole car is done , you can buff off wright away.
Instead of a vial you can use a syringe it’s more economical ‘cause you can get the last drop out of it, and the vial apears kinda hard to get the verry last out:
My wife works in a Vet-clinic, and she can get me 60Ml(= 2ounces) syringes.
First I put a plug into the tip of the syringe
then I put the Z and at last the ZFX in it.
Put the plunger in , but just at the verry beginning : the air compresses , no prob in doing so.
shake
let rest
shake again
put syringe with the tip upwards so the Z-ZFX can collect at the plunger and away from the tip.
It won`t take a minute
take the plug out , but put your applicator near the tip `cause a drop or two will come out.
Gently push the plunger `till all the air is out.
You`re ready to Z
works like a charm
no Z can stay behind
The application :prefered is to use the Z-applicators wich are in fact sponges in a white cottonâ€bagâ€.Nothing keeps you from using foam applicators.Use what’s handy for you.
Moisten the applicator a bit and squeege ‘till damp.Then a slight mist of Z6(QD) this makes spreading easier and makes thin layers possible
Some put a dime-size drop on the applicator , some thin lines and I put pin-size drops on.Experiment what works best for you.Remember: thin is the way to go.On an average car at least 3 layers out of an ounce(some get 6 out of an ounce)on a Van (depending size) 2 coats out of an ounce.
How do you know you’ve covered everything?
Well, put a system in your work, take sections at a time , and concentrate on covering everything.Be sure , where the applicator was , Z will be there too.
Buffing:
On the web-site Sal recommends pure cotton towels to buff off.Other members aboard (me included) use MF’s with great succes.The thinner you went the easyer the buffing will be.
The moment you notice streaks you’ll know Z wasn’t dry enough or your towel (or MF) is saturated.Wait a bit longer , pull your car in the sun or change towel (or MF).
Immeadiatly after application clean vial(or syringhe) and applicator with a strong mixture of dawn,do it quick otherwise if it cackes tossing away is the only option.
Enjoy the shine
Step 7:
Quick Detail
After a coat and in particular in between coats it is recommended to QD.
Take your best MF’s for this (you don’t want swirls!!!)
Mist a LITTLE Z6 on a section , spread even with one MF , buff to an amazing shine with the second.Finish the entire car.
If you prefer, you can mist on one MF , whipe finish and buff.Whatever works good for you.
Step 8:
Continue layering
Since Z is not abrasive , you can build layer upon layer , improving shine , slickness and depth with each layer.
You’ll be the judge.
A word about the non-abrasiveness:
Z5 is named : polish.Somewhat misleading ‘cause Z5 will only fill in MINOR swirls.It’s optical clarity is a fraction less than Z2.But the diffrence is so small that it’s most likely that you will not notice the diffrence.What is more likely is that Z2 has more UV-resistance.
Another method of putting Z on , By Tort:
The technique is just a variation on how the Zaino website recommends applying . . . damp applicator, with a spritz of Z6 now and then.
I use a 3M waffle finishing pad (grey). I wet the pad thoroughly with water, then squeeze until barely damp. Sandwiching the pad between a couple of MF towels and squeezing gets them mostly dry, then I mount the pad on the buffer and allow it to free spin. Centrifugal force will pull any residual drops out of the foam. I then spray the pad lightly with Z6, and apply the ZFX/Z to the pad using a 35 mL oral syringe. Part of the trick is to get a very small amount of Z distributed over the face of the pad; the syringe comes in handy for that . . . it`s easy to control, and you can gauge how much is being applied to each panel.
Now to apply to the car . . . before firing up the buffer, I dab it in several places over the panel I`m about to cover. This leaves small deposits of Zaino on the surface that will "refresh" the pad as I spread the Z. In my experience, this yields more even coverage. Then I turn on the buffer (set around 2 or so) and spread the product over the panel. There`s no need to "work" it at all; I usually support a good deal of the buffer`s weight, and just let the waffle pattern of the 3M pad "massage" the Z onto the paint.
The first couple of panels will require more Zaino until the pad is "loaded"; after that, I`ve found the pad gives back as much as it apply to it, and takes only tiny amounts (less than 1 mL) for subsequent panels. Oh, I hit the pad lightly with Z6 every other panel or so, too, as that seems to even out coverage and allow the Z2/Z5 to spread that much more thinly.
If I`m doing multiple coats (and I usually do at least 2 if I`ve busted out the ZFX), I spray the pad with Z6 and put a damp MF towel over it while removing the previous coat; it keeps the Z on the pad from setting up in the interim.
Tort
Step 9:
Washing
You are in the Z-system therefore use Z7 please.With each wash you re-new the shine.
A dubble dime-size in a 3gallon bucket will do just fine
Use the perfect washing and drying techniqe
Step 10:
Enjoy the shine
edit: this article is not perfect, thus from time to time I will update it
Lots of questions are being asked about Zaino, and many times the same Q`s.
As I was a novice once I thought it might be a good idea to summerize the steps involved when someone takes the step towards Zaino.
I do not claim this to be the one and only perfect product, I just tried to write a guide-line.
The Zaino-route manual
No matter what condition your car is in :
Step 1:
Wash your car
It realy doesn’t matter what soap you’re using because this wash is only ment to take dirt and dust away , just rince well .
Work in the shade the whole time as much as possible.
Step 2:
Clay your car
Right after you ‘ve washed you can start claying you can even let the car be wet , clay needs lube anyway.
I’m not going to explain the clay method , but only this : do it minitious, be as thorough as you can so that you don’t miss any spots
What brand of clay you use doesn’t matter , but as Zaino is a system where everything works well together , then Z18 is not a bad choice, a bit hard to fold maybe,cleans realy well though.
Step 3:
Wash your car again
Again , it realy doesn’t matter what soap you use ‘cause this isn’t the last wash before Z.But this time dry the car as good as you can.
Maybe some will call this step overkill , but it takes the clayresidue away for sure.
It is prefered to let the car dry overnight, you don’t want water comming out of crevices with the next step.Drying with a leaf-blower, running around a bit are allso means for drying the car faster if you do not have time.(Allthough I would not suggest driving aroud as you collect dust againâ€)
Step 4:
Paint prep time
I’m not going to explain , David’s book is the reference on this.
What realy matters is that you do it as good as you can , by PC(preferred) or by hand (LOT’s of work & time) doesn’t matter.But remember that this is THE most important step in the whole process.
The way you leave your finish at the end of this process will be magnified by Zaino , optical perfect,remember?
Step 5:
Last wash
Now is the actual start of the Z-procedure
For this wash it is recommend to use DAWN, or an other dishwashing-liquid.Choose a dishwashing-liquid with no additives like hand-softners,flavors&nice smells,extra shine capacities for drinking-glaces ,†No, just plain simple dishwashing-liquid like for example Blue Dawn.
Two ounces in a 3-gallon bucket should do the trick : the reason for this wash is to get the paint free from oils,fillers and whatever was on it before Step 1.Zaino wants to bond with your paint and doesn’t want to bond with old waxes.Claying and polishing took away alot of it , but unfortunately polishing replaced some fillers , therefore : dawn-wash.
If you do it wright the first time , this will be the only time you’ll be Dawn-washing(unless you need to remove swirls & scratches later on :as time goes by your paint will be under attack.Then after repairing these “attacks†Dawn wash may be needed)
Remember by the start of Step 5 you have a perfect (or as near as) finish , use the perfect washing & drying techniques from now on : you don’t want to induce new swirls , do you?
Prefered to let the car dry overnight : see allso the end of Step 3.
Step 6:
Applying &buffing Zaino
First decide what you want to use : Z1 or ZFX :should You use Z1 there’s no need for ZFX and vice-versa , it’s up to you, but for the first application you NEED to use one of them .
What’s the diffrence then?
Well , if you choose ZFX you have the option to apply up to 3 layers a day , there’s no need for waiting in between layers ‘cause there’s no dry & cure-time.And after the first layers you can continue without ZFX(recomended re-use after 10 coats or so)but with dry-and cure time
If you choose Z1 then you first put on a coat of Z1 ,no need to let dry immeadiatly follow with Z2( Z3 if you have a non-clearcoated car) or Z5 .Again only do this the first time and then after a 10 or so layers.Once the Z2 or Z5 is on , let dry.This can be an hour , or more.You can tell that it’s ready to be buffed off when a crystal clear finish appears right after you wiped your finger over a hazed section.If it smears , wait longer , maybe pull your car out in the sun : Z will dry faster and will remove easyer.
You choose ZFX?
Start by mixing an ounce of Z2 or Z5 in a vial and add 4 drops of ZFX.
Close the vial good(!!!) and shake for at least a minute.Let rest for about 5 minutes.In the mean time get your applicator , stepstool,MF’s,â€ready.Drink a coffee â€
Shake well again and start applying.
After the whole car is done , you can buff off wright away.
Instead of a vial you can use a syringe it’s more economical ‘cause you can get the last drop out of it, and the vial apears kinda hard to get the verry last out:
My wife works in a Vet-clinic, and she can get me 60Ml(= 2ounces) syringes.
First I put a plug into the tip of the syringe
then I put the Z and at last the ZFX in it.
Put the plunger in , but just at the verry beginning : the air compresses , no prob in doing so.
shake
let rest
shake again
put syringe with the tip upwards so the Z-ZFX can collect at the plunger and away from the tip.
It won`t take a minute
take the plug out , but put your applicator near the tip `cause a drop or two will come out.
Gently push the plunger `till all the air is out.
You`re ready to Z
works like a charm
no Z can stay behind
The application :prefered is to use the Z-applicators wich are in fact sponges in a white cottonâ€bagâ€.Nothing keeps you from using foam applicators.Use what’s handy for you.
Moisten the applicator a bit and squeege ‘till damp.Then a slight mist of Z6(QD) this makes spreading easier and makes thin layers possible
Some put a dime-size drop on the applicator , some thin lines and I put pin-size drops on.Experiment what works best for you.Remember: thin is the way to go.On an average car at least 3 layers out of an ounce(some get 6 out of an ounce)on a Van (depending size) 2 coats out of an ounce.
How do you know you’ve covered everything?
Well, put a system in your work, take sections at a time , and concentrate on covering everything.Be sure , where the applicator was , Z will be there too.
Buffing:
On the web-site Sal recommends pure cotton towels to buff off.Other members aboard (me included) use MF’s with great succes.The thinner you went the easyer the buffing will be.
The moment you notice streaks you’ll know Z wasn’t dry enough or your towel (or MF) is saturated.Wait a bit longer , pull your car in the sun or change towel (or MF).
Immeadiatly after application clean vial(or syringhe) and applicator with a strong mixture of dawn,do it quick otherwise if it cackes tossing away is the only option.
Enjoy the shine
Step 7:
Quick Detail
After a coat and in particular in between coats it is recommended to QD.
Take your best MF’s for this (you don’t want swirls!!!)
Mist a LITTLE Z6 on a section , spread even with one MF , buff to an amazing shine with the second.Finish the entire car.
If you prefer, you can mist on one MF , whipe finish and buff.Whatever works good for you.
Step 8:
Continue layering
Since Z is not abrasive , you can build layer upon layer , improving shine , slickness and depth with each layer.
You’ll be the judge.
A word about the non-abrasiveness:
Z5 is named : polish.Somewhat misleading ‘cause Z5 will only fill in MINOR swirls.It’s optical clarity is a fraction less than Z2.But the diffrence is so small that it’s most likely that you will not notice the diffrence.What is more likely is that Z2 has more UV-resistance.
Another method of putting Z on , By Tort:
The technique is just a variation on how the Zaino website recommends applying . . . damp applicator, with a spritz of Z6 now and then.
I use a 3M waffle finishing pad (grey). I wet the pad thoroughly with water, then squeeze until barely damp. Sandwiching the pad between a couple of MF towels and squeezing gets them mostly dry, then I mount the pad on the buffer and allow it to free spin. Centrifugal force will pull any residual drops out of the foam. I then spray the pad lightly with Z6, and apply the ZFX/Z to the pad using a 35 mL oral syringe. Part of the trick is to get a very small amount of Z distributed over the face of the pad; the syringe comes in handy for that . . . it`s easy to control, and you can gauge how much is being applied to each panel.
Now to apply to the car . . . before firing up the buffer, I dab it in several places over the panel I`m about to cover. This leaves small deposits of Zaino on the surface that will "refresh" the pad as I spread the Z. In my experience, this yields more even coverage. Then I turn on the buffer (set around 2 or so) and spread the product over the panel. There`s no need to "work" it at all; I usually support a good deal of the buffer`s weight, and just let the waffle pattern of the 3M pad "massage" the Z onto the paint.
The first couple of panels will require more Zaino until the pad is "loaded"; after that, I`ve found the pad gives back as much as it apply to it, and takes only tiny amounts (less than 1 mL) for subsequent panels. Oh, I hit the pad lightly with Z6 every other panel or so, too, as that seems to even out coverage and allow the Z2/Z5 to spread that much more thinly.
If I`m doing multiple coats (and I usually do at least 2 if I`ve busted out the ZFX), I spray the pad with Z6 and put a damp MF towel over it while removing the previous coat; it keeps the Z on the pad from setting up in the interim.
Tort
Step 9:
Washing
You are in the Z-system therefore use Z7 please.With each wash you re-new the shine.
A dubble dime-size in a 3gallon bucket will do just fine
Use the perfect washing and drying techniqe
Step 10:
Enjoy the shine
edit: this article is not perfect, thus from time to time I will update it