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View Full Version : proper pc use instructions. please help



mhsu408
07-17-2002, 12:04 AM
how do you guys use the buffer? What`s the best technique? I`ve been hearing various opinions. Go in a linear, or circular motion? Do you have to work the same spot over twice, each in different directions? What do you guys think is the best technique to use?



Also how much pressure do you apply to the buffer? and what settings do you use and for how long on each setting?



Again, i`ve tried using the SEARCH, but could not find much info about this. Thanks for your help.

Jngrbrdman
07-17-2002, 12:10 AM
I`d highly recommend getting the Autopia Guide to Detailing. It will be money well spent and will answer questions exactly like this one. Just a thought.

uconn1150
07-17-2002, 12:12 AM
I`ve only been here a couple of weeks and I know that SEARCH is a useful tool, but sometimes you really don`t get what you are looking for...



From what I`ve heard is that you will use the PC in a linear fashion from the hood back up over the roof toward the trunck/hatch...for the sides, linear up and down...



a ROUGH idea for speeds is 6 for the application of polish and 4 for the application of wax/sealer (I will only use the pc for applying)



Everyone has their own opinion, so don`t be suprised if you get many varied explanations...I hope I got the general idea...:nixweiss



:bow thanks everyone for my little knowlegde (as of now :wavey )

laynlow
07-17-2002, 12:16 AM
Boy, I think one could write a book here.



First, you do not use circular motions. The random action of the polishing pad does the work for you. I make back-and-forth passes that slightly overlap. After completing them one direction, I change and go 90 degrees to that. The exceptions are edges where you don`t have that option.



As for how long, it depends on the product you are applying. Products that contain buffered abrasives must be worked a long time to break down the abrasives and polish the finish. Start with a firm pressure and lighten up as the product begins to dry. Pure polishes and glazes like IHG or Meguiars #7 do not need to be worked as long. Get a nice even coat, and wipe the residue off, your done. Waxes also just need an even coat and time to cure before removal. With the prior two, the weight of the PC will provide enough pressure.



Also, try searching with broader terms. There really is a wealth of info on all these products.

ZL1Mark
07-17-2002, 12:28 AM
I can give you the perspective of a total newbie - I got my PC yesterday, and used the yellow pad w. SMR on the hood & front fenders last night, and one door & rear fender tonight. Also applied Zymol by hand, and then used a terry bonnet over lambswool to work the wax, followed by hand buff off w. a MF towel.



I`ve gotten the best results so far by:



applying 5-6 small dots of SMR around the perimeter of the pad, inside the highest (thickest) part of the pad. dots bigger than a pencil thickness, maybe as big as a dime



place the pad against the paint & smear back & forth to distribute before powering up



start at speed of ~3 to start, cover the area with straight lines, overlapping each line about 1/3 to 1/2 of the pad diameter, then use straight lines at 90 degrees to the first set of lines. Moderate pressure; I`m just distributing material & pulling some into the pad as well. Do this for 1-2 minutes, moving at a speed of 1-3 inches/second



Increase speed to ~4.5, follow same kind of pattern/speed as above, for 2-3 minutes as the polish hazes up & starts to dry out. Use fairly firm pressure, depending on how bad the swirls are.



Increase speed again to 6, and work the polish until it almost entirely disappears & the paint gets nice & glossy. There will be a lot of dry flakes/powder thrown off during this process. Start fairly strong pressue, back off to lighter & lighter pressure.



Now, I am NOT any kind of expert!!:bow I`ve exhaustively read `bout every post on this board about PC & polish (and wax), and thought I`d thrown in a novice`s perspective about how I`m feeling my way so far.



The video on this site re: buffing is nice/valuable to watch, though I wouldn`t start with lambswool pad!!



Oh, and I pulled on a pair of leather weightlifting gloves w. double-thickness leather palms, to try & give my hands a break from the vibration of the PC...

ClayBartrug
07-17-2002, 07:03 AM
Most of what has been said here is good information. I will just add a few things and reiterate a few points from my recent first experience with a PC. First and foremost, know that your best learning will come from experimentation. Start small and work your way up. Start with SMR and just the polishing pad and on lower speeds. Work in a linear fashion, with overlapping strokes. Then work perpendicular to the strokes on your first pass of an area. Work areas that are not too large. With SMR and abrasives you need to work them to break them down, more or less till they disappear or there`s little residue which can be easily removed.



I know it`s somewhat frieghtening, but start slow and you`ll see that the PC isn`t too hard to use at all. In fact, it`s rather easy. Your first session should just be experimenting and feeling how the machine works. Light pressure at first until you get a good feel for it.



Hope some of this helps. Good luck!

mhsu408
07-17-2002, 01:04 PM
when moving the PC back and forth, how slow should you move it?



i know you work patch by patch when polishing with a PC. But, is the correct technique to finish going one direction first on that patch... then afterwards, going the 90 degrees direction and do the same patch again?

ClayBartrug
07-17-2002, 01:10 PM
Originally posted by mhsu408

when moving the PC back and forth, how slow should you move it?



i know you work patch by patch when polishing with a PC. But, is the correct technique to finish going one direction first on that patch... then afterwards, going the 90 degrees direction and do the same patch again?



It`s kinda hard to judge the speed, persay... I`d say to move it at a relatively slow pace. What feels natural. If you move it too fast, you won`t be working the product in as well as you might have to.



As for the technique, I think you just wanna make sure you get good coverage of an area. How you accomplish that is your call really. back and forth, the 90 degrees seemed pretty natural to me. :nixweiss There`s no hard and fast rule though really.