99323ic
07-02-2002, 05:31 PM
I`ve used Klasse and found it to be really easy to use, literally just follow the directions. What I liked about it is the amount of time that it took to 3 layers of each product (about a one day process with liberal breaks).
First off, go to CMA (http://www.properautocare.com) and get the Klasse Concours Kit (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/klasconkit.html) for $40. It contains 16 oz. bottles of All-In-One and Sealant Glaze, and 2 microfiber covered foam applicators along with directions. Alternatively you can step up one notch and get the Klasse-Sonus Complete Kit (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/klassoncomki.html) for $70 which adds to the Concours kit the following: Klasse Vinyl, Leather, Rubber, Cleaner Protectant (8 oz.), the Sonus Gel Wheel Cleaner (16 oz.), Sonus High Gloss Acrylic Spritz (16 oz.), 3 Microfiber Applicator Pads (instead of 2), and 1 Microfiber Final Wipe towel (different than what I recommend next) along with instructions.
Also get 1 or 2 (I`d recommend 2, if your wallet doesn`t mind) 5-packs of micro fiber towels 5-Pack Kit of Microfiber Towels (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/kitiffivmict.html) for $30 (each) which will give you 1 (awesome) Magic Towel for final buffing, cleaning, wipe downs, etc.; 1 Viper Glass Cleaning Cloth for glass & plastic surfaces; and 3 Viper Detailing Cloths for product application/removal and general cleaning.
SIDE BAR: The trick to using the Viper Glass cloth, by the way, is to use a 50/50 solution of filtered/distilled water and isopropyl alcohol (or add vinegar to the mix and make it in thirds), thoroughly wet the cloth and then WRING, WRING, WRING until it`s as dry as possible. Wipe along and use a second glass cloth (or Magic Towel) to dry/buff. Clean & streak free. Try your best to not overlap onto the paint as that will strip Klasse if left on too long.
You will also need some no-wax/no-silicone detailing spray, such as Meguiar`s Final Inspection (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/megfinin.html) for $6. This is used in between Sealant Glaze layers. If your wallet doesn`t mind, also get some Eimann Fabrik Clear Pearl Instant Detail Spray (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/cp-32.html) for $15. This contains carnauba, so you`d only use this after you`ve finished your Klasse treatment. Using it between Klasse SG layers may cause problems with bonding. Since it contains wax, it will help rejuvenate your wax (or if you don`t add a layer of Biltz on top, it just richens the shine that the Klasse gives).
Ok, on to the fun part!
In a shady area (or garage), start off with a freshly stripped car by using Dawn (the original blue stuff) and really give it a good scrubbing. Dry with an Absorber towel ($9 locally) or a P21S drying towel (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/p21-168.html) ($10). UPDATE Get a Big Blue Drying Towel (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/bigbludryint.html) or the Blue Towel Kit (http://www.properautocare.com/biglitblutow.html) for incredible performance. (I`ve got 2 of the BBT`s and NEVER WRING THEM OUT while drying my car). They are incredible! Be very thorough in your drying.
Take a break!
Grab your Klasse All-In-One (AIO) and an applicator pad. Clap the applicator pad in your hands a few times to get rid of any loose fibers and trim any loose threads. Wet it down and SQUEEZE it until damp. Put it aside and shake, shake, shake the AIO. Pour about a dime sized drop on to the pad. Personally, I start on the trunk lid and smoothly apply back and forth (in the direction of airflow) from one side of the car to the next. Check your pad and see if you need to add some more AIO. According to the directions, you shouldn`t need or than an ounce or so for the entire car (less is better). Go over the entire car from back to front.
Take a break! (but not too long)
Do it again. No need to buff off the first coat.
Take a break! (but not too long)
(Personal preference) I do a third layer on the leading edges of the hood, above the windshield, and the mirrors, where ever a stone or crusty bug might hit.
Grab a Detailing Cloth and remove any AIO residue (there shouldn`t be much).
Take a break! (You deserve it!!) Wash your hands and dry really well. Come back to the car and feel it. Now look in a mirror and see the grin on your face The paint should feel like melted butter; really smooth and soft. Yippee!!
Grab the other applicator and do the same thing (Clap the applicator pad in your hands a few times to get rid of any loose fibers and trim any loose threads.) DO NOT WET IT! Put it aside and shake, shake, shake the Sealant Glaze (SG). Pour about a dime sized drop on to the pad. Start at the trunk lid again and in the direction of airflow apply from one side of the car to the other side.
Go over the entire car using light coats (remember that less is better!). Once your done with the first layer, you should end up at the trunk again. Grab a detailing cloth and your Final Inspection. Give 1 spritz to the towel and begin to remove the SG. If it`s too hard to remove, use some more detail spray. The goal here is to have the SG sit for about 20 minutes or so between residue removal. You can adjust your technique to fit your style, but that`s your goal. Between layers of SG, you should wait about 24 hours (that`s the consensus among board members, any way).
Take a break! You`re almost there!
Do it again! Now you should start to see some really nice, deep richness to your car. A third layer will intensify this, but 4 or more seems to have diminishing returns, so 2 or 3 seems to be the ideal.
By the way, don`t worry about getting the AIO or SG on the glass, it buffs off with ease. It also doesn`t stain rubber moldings!
Now, here`s an option. You can either sit back and really enjoy your shiny car (make sure that you put on sunglasses before moving it into the sun!!) or you can add a wax topper. Most here seem to love Blitz Wax (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/blitzwax10oz.html) for it`s durability, price ($16), and how it brings out the richness of the paint. Pinnacle Souveran Car Wax (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/pin-312.html) is highly regarded among users, but will set you back about $70. They also offer Pinnacle Paste Glaz (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/pin-311.html) ($35), and Liquid Souveran Carnauba Wax (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/pinliqsouvwa.html) ($25).
At this point any tiredness that you feel will be whisked away whenever you gaze at your beautiful car :xyxthumbs
UPDATE - Use a PC !
Recently I purchased a Porter Cable 7336SP Random Orbital Polisher (http://www.portercable.com/cgi-bin/products.cgi?method=byid&prod_id=7336) and used it to apply Klasse. What a wonderful experience! You have 2 ways to get one, either via CMA`s Porter Cable Ultimate Detailing Machine (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/porcabuldetm.html) ($179) which includes the machine and the Velcro backer plate plus you`ll need the DAP-Kit Detailing Accessory Package (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/porcabuldetm.html) (see the bottom of the page) for ($50) or you can go to Lowes (http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=51472-000041735-7336) and get it there for $109 and then order the Porter Cable Accessory kit (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/porcabackit.html) ($60) from CMA, which includes One 6 inch Velcro Back-up Plate, One 6 inch Lambswool Compounding Pad for leveling the surface (the Lambswool pad is also used as a cushion under the terry bonnets), One 6 inch Yellow Cutting Pad for older, oxidized finishes, Two 6 inch white polishing/waxing pads, One 6 inch gray finishing pad for producing an ultra high gloss, Two 6 inch terry bonnets for buffing. I`d also suggest getting Viper Microfiber Bonnets (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/vipmicbonfor.html). If you love microfiber like I do get 2 !!
Use the PC the same way that you`d work by hand, but start out slow until you get the hang of it. It makes the work go a lot quicker, and gives you a wonderful finish. Make sure that you clean the pads in soapy water and get them really clean! Mark them so that you know what product is used with what pad (do a search for more in-depth PC use).
My apologies for the long post, but I got carried away!
If any questions arise from this, just post them and you will get plenty of useful information. Make sure that you liberally use the search feature, too. There`s been a lot of debate & discussion on Klasse and PC`s, so check out all of our posts for details.
Thanks to David for placing these instructions in a permanent home! :bow
First off, go to CMA (http://www.properautocare.com) and get the Klasse Concours Kit (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/klasconkit.html) for $40. It contains 16 oz. bottles of All-In-One and Sealant Glaze, and 2 microfiber covered foam applicators along with directions. Alternatively you can step up one notch and get the Klasse-Sonus Complete Kit (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/klassoncomki.html) for $70 which adds to the Concours kit the following: Klasse Vinyl, Leather, Rubber, Cleaner Protectant (8 oz.), the Sonus Gel Wheel Cleaner (16 oz.), Sonus High Gloss Acrylic Spritz (16 oz.), 3 Microfiber Applicator Pads (instead of 2), and 1 Microfiber Final Wipe towel (different than what I recommend next) along with instructions.
Also get 1 or 2 (I`d recommend 2, if your wallet doesn`t mind) 5-packs of micro fiber towels 5-Pack Kit of Microfiber Towels (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/kitiffivmict.html) for $30 (each) which will give you 1 (awesome) Magic Towel for final buffing, cleaning, wipe downs, etc.; 1 Viper Glass Cleaning Cloth for glass & plastic surfaces; and 3 Viper Detailing Cloths for product application/removal and general cleaning.
SIDE BAR: The trick to using the Viper Glass cloth, by the way, is to use a 50/50 solution of filtered/distilled water and isopropyl alcohol (or add vinegar to the mix and make it in thirds), thoroughly wet the cloth and then WRING, WRING, WRING until it`s as dry as possible. Wipe along and use a second glass cloth (or Magic Towel) to dry/buff. Clean & streak free. Try your best to not overlap onto the paint as that will strip Klasse if left on too long.
You will also need some no-wax/no-silicone detailing spray, such as Meguiar`s Final Inspection (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/megfinin.html) for $6. This is used in between Sealant Glaze layers. If your wallet doesn`t mind, also get some Eimann Fabrik Clear Pearl Instant Detail Spray (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/cp-32.html) for $15. This contains carnauba, so you`d only use this after you`ve finished your Klasse treatment. Using it between Klasse SG layers may cause problems with bonding. Since it contains wax, it will help rejuvenate your wax (or if you don`t add a layer of Biltz on top, it just richens the shine that the Klasse gives).
Ok, on to the fun part!
In a shady area (or garage), start off with a freshly stripped car by using Dawn (the original blue stuff) and really give it a good scrubbing. Dry with an Absorber towel ($9 locally) or a P21S drying towel (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/p21-168.html) ($10). UPDATE Get a Big Blue Drying Towel (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/bigbludryint.html) or the Blue Towel Kit (http://www.properautocare.com/biglitblutow.html) for incredible performance. (I`ve got 2 of the BBT`s and NEVER WRING THEM OUT while drying my car). They are incredible! Be very thorough in your drying.
Take a break!
Grab your Klasse All-In-One (AIO) and an applicator pad. Clap the applicator pad in your hands a few times to get rid of any loose fibers and trim any loose threads. Wet it down and SQUEEZE it until damp. Put it aside and shake, shake, shake the AIO. Pour about a dime sized drop on to the pad. Personally, I start on the trunk lid and smoothly apply back and forth (in the direction of airflow) from one side of the car to the next. Check your pad and see if you need to add some more AIO. According to the directions, you shouldn`t need or than an ounce or so for the entire car (less is better). Go over the entire car from back to front.
Take a break! (but not too long)
Do it again. No need to buff off the first coat.
Take a break! (but not too long)
(Personal preference) I do a third layer on the leading edges of the hood, above the windshield, and the mirrors, where ever a stone or crusty bug might hit.
Grab a Detailing Cloth and remove any AIO residue (there shouldn`t be much).
Take a break! (You deserve it!!) Wash your hands and dry really well. Come back to the car and feel it. Now look in a mirror and see the grin on your face The paint should feel like melted butter; really smooth and soft. Yippee!!
Grab the other applicator and do the same thing (Clap the applicator pad in your hands a few times to get rid of any loose fibers and trim any loose threads.) DO NOT WET IT! Put it aside and shake, shake, shake the Sealant Glaze (SG). Pour about a dime sized drop on to the pad. Start at the trunk lid again and in the direction of airflow apply from one side of the car to the other side.
Go over the entire car using light coats (remember that less is better!). Once your done with the first layer, you should end up at the trunk again. Grab a detailing cloth and your Final Inspection. Give 1 spritz to the towel and begin to remove the SG. If it`s too hard to remove, use some more detail spray. The goal here is to have the SG sit for about 20 minutes or so between residue removal. You can adjust your technique to fit your style, but that`s your goal. Between layers of SG, you should wait about 24 hours (that`s the consensus among board members, any way).
Take a break! You`re almost there!
Do it again! Now you should start to see some really nice, deep richness to your car. A third layer will intensify this, but 4 or more seems to have diminishing returns, so 2 or 3 seems to be the ideal.
By the way, don`t worry about getting the AIO or SG on the glass, it buffs off with ease. It also doesn`t stain rubber moldings!
Now, here`s an option. You can either sit back and really enjoy your shiny car (make sure that you put on sunglasses before moving it into the sun!!) or you can add a wax topper. Most here seem to love Blitz Wax (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/blitzwax10oz.html) for it`s durability, price ($16), and how it brings out the richness of the paint. Pinnacle Souveran Car Wax (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/pin-312.html) is highly regarded among users, but will set you back about $70. They also offer Pinnacle Paste Glaz (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/pin-311.html) ($35), and Liquid Souveran Carnauba Wax (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/pinliqsouvwa.html) ($25).
At this point any tiredness that you feel will be whisked away whenever you gaze at your beautiful car :xyxthumbs
UPDATE - Use a PC !
Recently I purchased a Porter Cable 7336SP Random Orbital Polisher (http://www.portercable.com/cgi-bin/products.cgi?method=byid&prod_id=7336) and used it to apply Klasse. What a wonderful experience! You have 2 ways to get one, either via CMA`s Porter Cable Ultimate Detailing Machine (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/porcabuldetm.html) ($179) which includes the machine and the Velcro backer plate plus you`ll need the DAP-Kit Detailing Accessory Package (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/porcabuldetm.html) (see the bottom of the page) for ($50) or you can go to Lowes (http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=51472-000041735-7336) and get it there for $109 and then order the Porter Cable Accessory kit (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/porcabackit.html) ($60) from CMA, which includes One 6 inch Velcro Back-up Plate, One 6 inch Lambswool Compounding Pad for leveling the surface (the Lambswool pad is also used as a cushion under the terry bonnets), One 6 inch Yellow Cutting Pad for older, oxidized finishes, Two 6 inch white polishing/waxing pads, One 6 inch gray finishing pad for producing an ultra high gloss, Two 6 inch terry bonnets for buffing. I`d also suggest getting Viper Microfiber Bonnets (http://www.properautocare.com/classic-motoring/vipmicbonfor.html). If you love microfiber like I do get 2 !!
Use the PC the same way that you`d work by hand, but start out slow until you get the hang of it. It makes the work go a lot quicker, and gives you a wonderful finish. Make sure that you clean the pads in soapy water and get them really clean! Mark them so that you know what product is used with what pad (do a search for more in-depth PC use).
My apologies for the long post, but I got carried away!
If any questions arise from this, just post them and you will get plenty of useful information. Make sure that you liberally use the search feature, too. There`s been a lot of debate & discussion on Klasse and PC`s, so check out all of our posts for details.
Thanks to David for placing these instructions in a permanent home! :bow