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View Full Version : 3Mâ„¢ Finesse-Itâ„¢ II Finishing Material!!!



imported_Intermezzo
06-10-2002, 12:42 PM
The first time I ever used this product, I got terrible results and made a complete mess of my paint (http://www.autopia-carport.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5060), but I’ve gotta say that after my last two sessions with it, this product has now become one of my favorites. I consider it the perfect product to use in prepping your paint for Zaino or Klasse SG because it does a terrific job with swirls, removes whatever wax/sealant is already on your car & really shines up your car without leaving behind any oils or silicone. I used FI-2 over the weekend on my sister’s ’95 Corolla which has been very neglected recently and the paint was in pretty sorry condition. The steps I took were:



1. Wash with PBS

2. Clay with CM

3. Clean/Polish with FI-2

4. Z-1, Z-5



As I was applying FI-2 to the car, I was amazed at just how smooth and glossy it was making the paint. Sometimes I would step back and take a look after doing half a panel and the difference was tremendous. It did a terrific job of removing swirls and bringing back the car’s color and when I was finally finished, the car looked new (except for some deep scratches which might require a compound). Everyone I showed the car to (my sister and wife) were blown away by how the car looked and were surprised when I told them that I haven’t even Zaino’d the car yet.



Some of the key techniques (some of which I didn’t do when using this product for the first time) were the following:



1. Use a soft foam applicator. I like the ones made by Meguiar’s…they’re a little bigger than CMA’s.

2. Work in small sections at a time (1’x1’).

3. Work the product into the paint with firm pressure until it starts to get tacky.

4. Ease up on the pressure and work the “tacky” product into the paint with light pressure (credit this step to BradB. & Puterbum).

5. Keep working the product in until it is nearly gone and the surface is almost clear (credit this step to Scottwax).

6. Lightly (and I do mean lightly) buff out the residue with a MF towel.

7. If the residue doesn’t come off easily, then you either used too much product or you didn’t work it in long enough.



Using these methods, I was able to remove a good portion of the swirl-marks (75-80% removed) and get a nice, extremely shiny, haze-free surface. The downside is that it took about 5 hours to do this step to the entire car. The entire detailing session took over 8 hours. Although this product leaves a glossy surface, there is no slickness at all which leads me to believe that, unlike PPCL or 3M SMR, this product doesn’t leave oils and your paint is squeaky clean and ready to be sealed! (Someone correct me if I am mistaken in making this assumption) This product gets a huge :up in my book. Now if ONLY I could learn to hand polish as fast as Scottwax.....



I followed the FI-2 with Z-1 & Z-5 and I was done. I took some pictures and had them scanned, but the quality was so poor, I don`t think they merit being posted here.

jr weeks
06-11-2002, 12:25 PM
That product should be a staple for every detailer. It`s been a superb polish over the years for me as well, although I use it with a rotary most of the time.



I have switched over to 3M`s new Perfect-It III line , but honestly, the results I get with the FI -II are such that I will always keep a bottle on hand. It just works. Cheers.

06-11-2002, 01:21 PM
I hate to destroy the charm of this thread, but I really dislike 3M FI2. It is one of the most difficult products to use that I have seen. If you buff wrong the paint is a mess of haze. I would always need to use water or QD to aid in removal. Arrggh, I dont like it at all.

imported_Intermezzo
06-11-2002, 02:47 PM
Ali, we had a charming thread going here and you had to come and destroy it! hehe j/k.



I know what you`re saying. The margin for error in using this product is very small (unlike DACP). The first time I used this stuff, I seriously wanted throw it away because of the hazing and difficulty buffing. But I`ve made a few adjustments to the way I use it and am having no problems at all now. For a car that I`m planning to glaze or wax, I would probably use DACP instead, but for a car that is going to be Z`d or K`d, I think FI-2 is the ticket.....it leaves a great shine with no oils or fillers.

JonB
06-11-2002, 03:15 PM
Just curious....did you use with a PC or by hand? I use it with a PC and the results are amazing. No problem buffing it off since most of it is gone after working it with the PC.....



H

Andre'
06-11-2002, 03:17 PM
FI2 is one of the best polishing products one can buy, it`s a must for any detailer.:up



Lilke Intermezzo said, if it`s hard to remove your not buffing it long enough.

imported_Intermezzo
06-11-2002, 03:19 PM
BigboyHF



I did it by hand.

JonB
06-11-2002, 04:19 PM
If there is any place for a PC, polishing with FI II or SMR is it! It takes the ouch out of buffing.... The products nearly dissolve when it is finished working in and buffing off is a breeze!



H

KEVO
06-11-2002, 07:16 PM
For paints that need more help you may want to use the FI2 as it is more aggresive than the SMR but the FI2 tends to dull the paint slightly, this is why it is important to use the SMR after using the FI2 to bring back the gloss and of course finish off with your favorite kind of paint protector (when using the FI2 or SMR I always use an orbital and foam pads)

imported_doug
06-11-2002, 09:39 PM
I love FI-II FC by PC - where I can easily work the #$%^ out of it. I`ve done a few black sports cars - about 2 hours with the PC.





I only tried it by hand once and got haze `cuz I didn`t work it enough. I`ll be interested to try this technique - there ARE times when giving my car a hand job is better than using the vibrator, if you know what I mean.... ;)

VetteToVair
06-11-2002, 10:13 PM
carguy,

i think i know exactly what you mean:xyxthumbs