AIO, SG, WAX (learned those acronyms here - woohoo!)

[83Esprit]

Ok...

So I have decided to go with Klasse. My plan is: Pre-Wash, 1 application of AIO, followed with 2 applications of SG (I`ll let the first coat cure 24 hours). Does this sound reasonable?



If I add a wax topping over the 2X SG can I simply wash off the wax to apply another coat of SG? Or will I have to start the whole process (AIO....) over? Will an application of AIO remove all the layers of wax and SG previously used?



Thanks,

Kelly

[vettefan67]

Hi Kelly,



You might want to try out more than 2 layers of SG if you have the time. I noticed a definite difference in filling ability and shine from 2 to 3 coats of SG, but believe there are diminishing results afterwards.



You can do a mild Dawn wash to strip the wax and not all of the SG, but make sure you do more than 1 layer of SG as some SG is removed by Dawn. A couple of harsh Dawn washes didn`t remove my AIO + 3*SG even when I wanted them to, but I have been convinced recently by other members that some SG is removed by this.

[imported_Page]

Kelly,



Long post, but bear with me. I want to provide you as much info as I can which I hope will help.



How old is your car, and what condition is the paint in? I would say those are some questions you might want to examine before AIO. I think many here would agree that the "prep" work you do before AIO and SG will make all the difference in the world.



TO answer your question:

AIO will remove the wax and previous SG layers. Here is the "catch 22". AIO does put a light coat of sealant on the car. So, if anything is on your paint underneath the AIO it is "locked in" by the AIO. THen you layer on SG, and you still may have some "things" underneath the AIO and all the SG. So your sitting there, looking at that fresh SG finish, and can`t figure out why you have "rough" patches or "crap" in your finish.



Here is my recommendation for a finish which is smooth, shiny, and as free from defects as possible(I am also taking into consideration cost as well)



1. Wash car (some quality car wash) and dry.

Stick your hand in a cellophane cig wrapper or plastic bag. GENTLY run your fingers down the car while wrapped in cellophane or plastic. Do you feel "pebbles", "bumps", or "rough patches"? If so, consider the clay in step 2. If she`s smooth as glass, then go to step 3.





2. Clay the car. Mother`s makes a kit for 18.00 that you can buy at Pep Boys. Autozone or Trak may carry it also. You can find tips for claying on this site.



3. Check the paint for swirls. If you see scratches/swirls, you might want to use a 3M or other product to remove them. It`s up to you. AIO will highlight swirls in my experience, and then SG will work to fill them in. I find best thing to do is "remove" or hide the swirls with 3M or other product first, then AIO, then SG.



4. After claying/swirl removal you can wash again, or just use AIO. I normally wipe down the car after claying with a MF cloth misted with a quick detailer. I wipe gently and remove any clay residue. The AIO then cleans the paint and removes any other items.



5. Layer on up to 3 or 4 or 5 coats + of SG waiting at least 12 to 24 hours in between coats. I apply SG, allow 1 hour to dry, buff off. Wait 24 hours, then apply next coat. Not to brag, but I have a garage to do this in. If you don`t, this method is debateable as you rely upon weather etc to be friendly. I find waiting the 24 hours gives me a deeper shine, and I think a better bond of the SG layers. I know this much. When I try back to back layers of SG, I have seen "hazing" or "gumming" of the Klasse SG, and that`s using one to 1.5 ounces on a car. The 24 hours seems to "harden" the Klasse and lets the SG layer on.



So, claying only costs you 18.00 more. I just clayed my 2002 Ford F-150 Supercrew with 5 layers of SG on it. I clayed the truck because after claying my 2001 Mustang, I realized how much SMOOTHER the stang paint was even though I had five coats of SG on the truck! I might have removed one to two layers of SG with the clay, but I plan to layer two or more layers this week.



Here`s the kicker:

I had already deep cleaned my 2002 F-150 with ABC and Pinnacle Paint Cleansing Lotion prior to AIO or my first five layers of SG. I think it shows that even with "chemical" cleaning, sometimes clay gives that extra touch. I think you will find the clay gives you a really smooth surface to work with, and that will enhance your shine and slickness once you apply AIO and SG.







Please respond with any questions.



SJ

[ldonato]

if i`m running multiple coats of SG (let`s say 4-5) how do i strip it all off when i want to start a fresh again? if a dawn wash won`t cut it, would multiple dawn washes? or AIO then a dawn wash? thanks

[imported_Page]

Eugene,



There are posts on this in the archives but here is it in a nutshell



1. 100% Rubbing alcohol or a 50%/50% alcohol/water mix sprayed on and wiped down will remove Klasse.



2. AIO will remove layers of KSG. You will have a new layer of AIO, but KSG will be removed.



3. Any paint cleanser (Pinnacle Paint lotion, PS1 Paint cleanser, 3M Swirl remover) will remove Klasse KSG and/or AIO.



4. Chemical cleansers such as the ABC system from Auto Int will remove all AIO and KSG.



I hope that helps. I think Dawn will remove some KSG.



To strip KSG you might want to AIO, and then dawn wash to remove all KSG residue.(that`s really going to the limit.) Like I said, just to be safe.



I plan to follow a method some have posted here...namely get the surface as perfect as possible, then AIO, and layer on KSG. Over time I will clay as necessary, and layer on more KSG. This way you remove contaminants as the come along, keep the surface protected.



Not sure if I will go the whole "strip and start-over" route again.

SJ

[ldonato]

i always forget to do an archive search. like i`m the first one to ever ask these questions. at any rate, thanks for the info.

[83Esprit]

The car is a 2002 Sonata. I purchased it about 6 weeks ago. I have washed it weekly and the exterior seems in good condition. I am not overly concerned with having the `shiniest` car on the street I just want a good (ok...very good shine) with some exterior protectant. I have read about using a clay bar, but never have. Will the clay damage or remove any of the clear coat? I am assuming the clay picks up particles that are imbedded in the paint. Is this correct.



Thanks Again.

Kelly

[imported_Page]

Kelly,



You are correct. Clay does remove items embedded into the paint. Here is the thing. Most new cars have been transported by rail, or sometimes sit in a holding area before they are sent to the dealer. The cars then sit on the dealer lot, where they pick up additional contaminants. The clay will remove these items and leave you with a very smooth finish. As you layer on AIO then KSG you will have a great shine.



There are tips on claying under details, details, details section of the site.



Is clay safe for the clearcoat? I will say yes. You will not remove any more clear with a clay bar than you would with a mild pre-wax cleaner or polish, perhaps less.



Here is the mantra with clay



1. Clean the bar often as you use it. If you see bits of tar or other material in the bar, pick it out. Then knead the bar to a fresh side and continue claying.



2. Knead often. When you are finished with half a hood or a side panel, knead to a fresh side, and keep claying.



As you knead, keep turning the "dirty" side into itself. This way you are pushing any unseen particles into the clay, and leaving you a clean side to work with.



3. If you drop it on the ground, toss it out! If you drop the bar, and it picks up particles, toss it. Don`t take the chance of rubbing grit etc into the paint with the clay. You will be making small scratches.



Many particles that the clay will remove are unseen. When I clayed my 2002 F-150, much of the contamination could not be seen with my eyes. However, rubbing the surface after claying definitely told me that the surface was MUCH smoother.



Don`t let all this scare you from clay. It is easy to use, and produces great results. The main thing with clay is to treat it like a polishing cloth. You would`nt rub your clean panel with a grimy rag, so don`t rub the paint with clay that has particles embedded in it.



DO a search on the site for clay or claying, and you will pull up many threads which can help you out.



If you are debtaing if it is worth it, get the clay. Wash the car and clay one panel. Feel the panel that you have`nt clayed, and the one that you have. You will feel a great difference in smoothness and slickness of the panel you have clayed vs the one you have not.

[DETAILKING]

do not need to use AIO. I would recommend using PPCL on it for prep after a dawn wash or claying. Claying is non abrasive in the sense that no clearcoat is removed from the car unlike when abrasive cleaner waxes are used. As long as you use plenty of lube ( I use car wash as lube) it is safe and results are well worth it. If you choose the klasse route, and the paint is clean and new, I would skip AIO and go right to SG after prepping.

[Rcs476]

<blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >

<em class=`bbc`>Originally posted by SJ [/i]
<strong class=`bbc`>
Stick your hand in a cellophane cig wrapper or plastic bag. GENTLY run your fingers down the car while wrapped in cellophane or plastic.
SJ [/b]</blockquote>

Sorry if I am incorrect, but this sounds like a HUGE no-no. I don`t think that plastic should be moving on the paint as whatever contaminants are on the paint will then be dragged across it.

I think the proper way to do it is, lay the cellophane on the panel, and GENTLY move your hand across the plastic. The plastic should stay stationary.


Somebody please correct me if I am wrong.

[imported_Page]

Rcs,



You are right..my keys don`t move the way my mind tells them to(don`t you hate when that happens?!)



You are correct...lay the plastic down, then move your hand slowly across the plastic/cellophane. The plastic itself should not move.



Good catch!



SJ

[83Esprit]

DetailKing,



Forgive my ignorance but what would be the advantage of going with PPCL after a claying or washing rather than AIO? Is it less harsh or `easier` on a new paint job? Is AIO just overkill on a new car?



Thanks,

Ignorant but Nice,

Kelly

[DETAILKING]

I wouldn`t say it is overkill in all instances, but I like to use the least aggressive products to get the job done. If you are not going to use a paint cleanser or clay, then I suggest you use the AIO. If you are going to prep the car with clay and or a paint cleanser I would skip the aio and go right to SG. Also, I wouldn`t use aio on the car more than 1-2 times a year.