Can`t figure it out please help

[Prerunner06]

Im trying to clean up my Vw Jetta GLI and it has some scratches all over it only when under a good light source. I`m getting a nice smooth Finnish but I can`t get the scratches out. I`m using a lake country yellow pad with megs rubbing compound from a local auto parts supply house. I`ll let the pics do the talking.
12035
In this photo I am getting the shine and depth I want.
12036
But there are scratches like this all over the whole car

[Old Pirate]

I don`t know what type of polisher you may have but this is a great kit ( Meguiars Porter Cable XP Soft Buff Polishing Kit ) to have in your pursuit of removing swirls on the Jetta.

[Prerunner06]

I am using a porter cable I figured it would cut but it does not seem to cut at all! Should a I try another cutting compound?

[dtuna42]

Im trying to clean up my Vw Jetta GLI and it has some scratches all over it only when under a good light source. I`m getting a nice smooth Finnish but I can`t get the scratches out. I`m using a lake country yellow pad with megs rubbing compound from a local auto parts supply house. I`ll let the pics do the talking.
12035
In this photo I am getting the shine and depth I want.
12036
But there are scratches like this all over the whole car

Which machine are you using?

Are you using the Meg`s Rubbing Compound that comes in a "tin", or circular plastic container? If so, I think that is a mild hand rubbing compound, and may not have enough cut.

If you are using a compound that is meant for a machine, and a good DA machine, it`s possible you are getting the desired results out of this first step, and you are simply leaving some micro-marring, or haze. If that is the case, you may simply need to follow up this step with another, milder polish, with a finishing pad, such as the Lake Country White or Black/Gray pad.

[Prerunner06]

It`s in a black bottle with a red hood on the front and I followed up with with Wolfgang finishing glaze and a sealant. And the finishing glaze with a white pad and sealant with a blue

[TLMitchell]

I am using a porter cable I figured it would cut but it does not seem to cut at all! Should a I try another cutting compound?


It`s in a black bottle with a red hood on the front and I followed up with with Wolfgang finishing glaze and a sealant. And the finishing glaze with a white pad and sealant with a blue

Sounds like Ultimate Compound, a very good OTC compound with good cut that generally leaves a nice finish. Combined with yellow LC it should be able to abrade some pretty severe defects using correct techinique. Which Porter Cable might be an issue.... the older original version has been a workhorse for a lot of years. The newer PCxP is more powerful with better ability to keep the pad spinning under greater pressure.

Removing defects is a combination of products as well as arm movement speed, pressure and technique. If you`re moving too fast, not adding enough pressure, using too much or too little product or not keeping the pad flat and spinning at least somewht, you may not get the results you seek. The first thing you need to determine is whether complete removal of the defects is possible or even adviseable.

Can you catch a fingernail on the scratches? If so some wet sanding may be required IF the clear coat is thick enough to support that aggressive of an abrasion technique. If your nail doesn`t catch or perhaps just barely does you ought to be able to remove them using the products you`re currently using.. at the very least you ought to be able to make them less noticeable.

You don`t mention your experience level with machine polishing or paint correction. This might be useful to diagnose faulty technique, if applicable. Another thing that comes to mind, are the scratches definitely above the clear coat? If the vehicle has been resprayed or you acquired it recently without full knowledge of it`s history it may have been the victim of a poor respray and cleared over before the color coat was enhanced.

More info would be good...

AS you`ve no doubt noticed, glazing and sealing before you`ve determined the results of the compounding or polishing steps leave you with an unsatisfactory result after doing a lot of work and wasting product. Therein is the value of a small test spot worked until you`re satisfied with the results before doing the rest of the vehicle. Although hoods and trunks are frequently convenient places for test spots I generally look for the area of a vehicle with the worst defects. If my process leaves tha area with a satisfactory result I know the rest of the areas will turn out that well or better.

TL

[Prerunner06]

Those pictures were on the trunk I only did half the trunk tonight because I was not happy with the results. I keep the pad as flat as possible moving side to side up and down slowly with about 8lbs on the machine on speed level 6 and it is the older machine.

[opie_7afe]

question is what size pads are you using? alot report the pc7424/xp have troubles keeping rotation of the 6.5" pads however with the griots it dont seem to have a problem due to a more powerfull motor. a good tip is put a pad on your polisher then get the bathroom scale(if its digital i dont think they can go below 20lbs) and put a clean hand towel down on your scale(to keep pad clean) then push down untill your at 15lbs of pressure that helps train your self to how much pressure to use,also look to see how much the foam compressed to tell if your using correct pressure. if im thinking right vw/audi has some fairly hard paint so i would try something with more cut like m105. for me the UC does not have nearly the same cut as 105 using same pad, and same ammount of product for 105 and UC the 105 just cuts faster and finishes alittle more hazy then the UC. it took me about 5 passes with uc on this van im working on to get to the level of correction i wanted, takes me 2 passes with m105 to get the correction level i want. the last photo you uploaded seems like the scratches may be too deep to repair without wetsanding or too deep to repair safely, i would not want you to wetsand and then that spot the clear coat fails or you hit the color coat. use your fingernail and see if it catches,sometimes the baggie trick helps to tell if scratch is fairly deep or a 60x-100x pocket magnifier helps to determine this. i honestly do not think its so much your method or machine i think its product/pad combo not working for the paint or the defect is too deep.

[Prerunner06]

Is the 105 something I can pick up locally or need to order online?

[TLMitchell]

Those pictures were on the trunk I only did half the trunk tonight because I was not happy with the results.

Gotcha, good move.


I keep the pad as flat as possible moving side to side up and down slowly with about 8lbs on the machine on speed level 6 and it is the older machine.

Aha, you need more pressure on the pad. Many recommendations I`ve seen indicate 15 - 20 lbs. Too much and the pad will stop rotating, you don`t want that. It`s beneficial to put a couple of marks on your backing plate using grease pencil, Magic Marker or whatever so you can clearly see it`s rotating. The older PC will bog down easier than some of the newer, more powerful machines but they`ve been getting the job done for years. Increase pressure until the pad almost stops rotating then back off a smidge (technical term) until you can clearly detect rotation, you don`t need much. If you happen to be using 6.5" pads the larger pad`s rotation will stop earlier than something smaller like a 5.5".


Is the 105 something I can pick up locally or need to order online?

M105 Ultra Cut Compound is in the Professional Mirror Glaze line denoted by the cream colored bottles and less fancy labeling. All the product bottles kinda look the same whereas the consumer products are flashier. Some have reported either Auto Zone or Advanced Auto is now carrying the Mirror Glaze line, I`ve seen it at several CarQuest auto parts stores. If you see it in your area OTC you may be stuck with quarts. If you don`t use a lot of it that could be a lifetime supply. Some online venders offer it in 8 & 12 oz sampler sizes.

Ultimate Compound is only one step down from 105 on the Meg`s aggressiveness scale. I`d say rather than run around buying different products try to refine your technique and go with what you`ve got and see if you can attain your desired results that way, you can always notch up your products later, if necessary. I`ve had surprisingly good results with Ultimate Compound and it`s a lot easier to work with than 105. 105 has a much shorter working time, dries out faster, is more difficult to wipe off cleanly and dusts like crazy if you use too much product although a light misting of water can increase working time.

I`m not much of a fan of LC yellow. IMO, it`s firmness makes it a bit harder to use and the pressure needed to remove some more severe defects will frequently leave the finish marred from abrasion. Since I tried Purple Foamed Wool pads I find they cut and finish better and rotate easier under pressure. But like I sez, give what you have another pass or two with more pressure and see what you get... it may take multiple applications. If you do experience some loss of gloss or marring from the aggressive pad try backing off the pressure and let the pad spin up for a couple of passes as you`re finishing the section pass. Work small areas... no larger than 2 ft by 2 ft or smaller.

If you decide to step up your game and investigate some product upgrades I`ve been recommending the Meg`s MF DA System vs M105 and just about anything. The D300 Compound is a joy to use compared to 105, wipes off clean n easy, no dust and cutting capability almost on par with 105 although much more user friendly. The MF pads are a breeze to use as well and wash up better than anything else I`ve ever used. Since using the MF System about the only time I pull out the 105 anymore is for use with wool and a rotary to remove sanding marks or for seriously stout correction. Unless you have a well-stocked detailing specialty store near you (few and far between, IME) you`ll probably have to buy the MF System online if you decide to go that route some time in the future.

As with almost all compounds, the mentioned products will stain black trim and be a bear to remove. A cutting pad such as LC yellow can also burn trim if you catch an edge. Once you get away from the wide open spaces of the trunk tape off anything you don`t want compound on.

As an aside, if you go into your UserCP and modify your profile you can add your location if you`re inclined. You never know, you may have a seriously capable detailer across town or even down the street that you can turn to for pointers. Everyone in the detailing community started somewhere and most turned to others for a hand from time to time and almost everyone is willing to lend a hand to someone having difficulty.

When you get this sorted out please posts results and pictures. Some folks disappear after solving their issues and leave one scratching their head wondering how it ever turned out. You can post pictures into your post vs attaching them by uploading the pics to the Photo Gallery then inserting the IMG URL into your post. Makes things easier to see and diagnose. A few spaces before and after multiple IMG URLs keeps them from running together and makes viewing easier.

TL

[Prerunner06]

Wow thank you all for then info! I`ll give it another go tonight. And I am going to post pictures of the results also sorry for the issues from the first post I started and have been replying to this thread from my iPhone. I`m in Phx az if anyone is local and could lend some help to teach that would be great!

[TLMitchell]

Wow thank you all for then info! I`ll give it another go tonight. And I am going to post pictures of the results also sorry for the issues from the first post I started and have been replying to this thread from my iPhone. I`m in Phx az if anyone is local and could lend some help to teach that would be great!

Auto Detailing Solutions is in Chandler and has sampler sizes of almost everything Meguiar`s makes. You can order online and save shipping by picking it up. Rick is a great guy and very knowledgeable. Give him a call.

Another thought.... if you were only using 8 lbs of pressure with LC yellow you may want to back off and give orange a try with the increased pressure. If it handles your defects you may be able to avoid the marring you can possibly expect with the yellow. Always better to start less aggressive and work your way up as needed.

TL

[Todd@RUPES]

Great advice TL.

I would add that the VW`s I have worked on have had really hard paint and may require multiple passes to get those deeper marks out. Focus on pressure (the pad spinning slowly is perfect) and slow arm speed. Also, it is not always best to remove everything as you risk thinning the clear-coat too much and reducing the life expectancy of the paint.

[Prerunner06]

Ok so you want the pad to spin slower while cutting and faster while polishing? I`ll try the orange pad out with the increased pressure as soon as I can get the time. On a side note TL do you know of any classes in the valley central Phx if possible?

[TLMitchell]

On a side note TL do you know of any classes in the valley central Phx if possible?

Nope, I`m from Ohio. Call Rick at ADS, he`d know. He may even offer some for all I know.