2005 Acura TL

[imported_capspackle]

I finally went out today and bought a PC 7424 for $129.00. Isnt too bad. I need some recommendations on what pads to buy?



should i use it to apply PPCL?

if so, what pads to apply and which ones to remove?



for SMR, what to apply and what to remove?



for AIO, what to apply and what to remove?



for SG, what to apply and what to remove?





speed recommendations would also be appreciated

[TonyTahoe]

We`re working the same question in the Autopia University sub-forum here (`http://www.autopia-carport.com/forum/showthread.php3?threadid=8439`)

[BradE]

Get the DM kit from CMA for pads, or get Meguiars pads from local paint supply house.



PPCL- White pad, speeds around 3-4



SMR- Can use differnet pads depending on how bad swirls are. Wool/Yellow/White. Speeds between 4-6 depending on level of swirls



AIO- White Pad, speeds around 3-4



SG- Black Finishing, speeds around 3-4



I remove all products by hand, the machine is for application only.

[Sharkie]

I think Meguiar’s, Griot’s and CMA’s are all good. I got the kit from CMA along with the backing pad just because most of the references here are use X with the CMA white/yellow/gray pad. Made things a bit easier for me.





SJS

[dengelson]

I`d suggest starting out with CMA`s backing plate and starter kit.

<em class=`bbc`>clic pic[/i]
http://store4.yimg.com/I/classic-motoring_1681_1977205 (`http://www.properautocare.com/porcabackit.html`)

For SMR start with the white. If that isn`t provideing enough bite go for the yellow pad or the white pad with FI II.

For AIO I`ve used both the white and yellow pad. Both work well but the cutting pad provides more cutting action. :rolleyes:

I got a brand new PC and the Klasse system at the same time. I use the PC with the AIO and was very pleased with the results THEN I made a big mistake and used the PC for my first ever application of SG. I used the grey pad and way too much product. Only I didn`t know it was way too much. It didn`t appear, to my untrained eye, to be too much. When it came time to buff though egads my arms nearly fell off from the buffing and the couple of Viper bonnets I bought quickly gummed up when buffing the SG off.

So I came back here and did some research and asked some questions and began to climb the learning curve for working with SG. After using SG several times I decided to go back and try it again with the PC. It did work much better than the first go around with the PC however, I still feel that SG works best when applied by hand using a MF applicator. I spray one or two shots of QD on the applicator to moisten it then I use the SG sparingly. Three thin one inch lines of SG on the applicator will do an average hood.

CA typically has low humidity so I can usually get away with letting the SG sit for 20-30 minutes before buffing however if you have the time and a garage let it sit longer.

Then when I buff it off I use a MFT that has been soaked in water and thoroughly wrung out to make the first pass. Then I follow that with a dry MFT. The combination of the thin hand applied coats and the damp MFT make SG a real breeze to work with but it took me awhile to get to this point.

[dengelson]

<em class=`bbc`>clic pic[/i]
http://store4.yimg.com/I/classic-motoring_1675_1169009 (`http://www.properautocare.com/vipmicappad.html`)

[imported_firebird]

Want to wash, clay, polish and seal with BFWD. First is it hard or soft paint? Color is metalic maroon. Second, the passenger front and rear doors have been repainted with factory paint I am told. Do I have to worry about using the Megs Correction system (D300 and mf pads) pads on repainted panels? I will use blue LC pad for BFWD.
What if paint turns out to not be factory paint?
Thank you!

[gmblack3]

How long ago was it repainted?

[Nth Degree]

Even though factory paint may have been used, it was applied by a different person, probably in a different method, under different conditions. There is really no way of knowing for sure. A paint gauge helps, but assuming you don`t have one, you are kind of flying blind. Most repaints are a bit thicker than factory paint, but every body shop is different.

I would say 95% of the time what is safe for the original paint is also safe for the repaint. (I have never had an issue, but can see how it could happen.)

I would be comfortable with the method, just go slow and check your work regularly on the repainted panels until you get an idea how it is responding in comparison to the original paint.

[Old Pirate]

On a few cars I was told the same and turn out the clear coat was soft on some panels and the rest was hard as a rock. So the only way to know for sure is to do approcah every panel as if it was a new adventure. Always start the least aggressive way in not knowing what to expect, but have your supplies ready just in case.