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Desertfox66
10-06-2001, 01:21 PM
A friend asked me if I could help with his `97 Chevy Truck. He parks outside and tree sap is <strong class=`bbc`>coating[/b] his vehicle. I`ve already clayed the truck to remove the existing surface contaminants and followed that up with two passes of PI 2 and the yellow cutting pad on the 7424. The problem is that the tree sap appears to have deeply pitted the paint.

Any and all suggestions are greatly appeciated.

Ron Ketcham
10-06-2001, 01:29 PM
First, use the 30X magnifier and you will most likely find that the clear is also cracked, plus the pits.



The allowable removable amount of clear is .3 (3/10th) of a mil of clearcoat.



The pits are deeper than that or you could not readily notice them.



Sounds like the only real repair is a trip to the bodyshop.



:eek:

ihetenyi
10-06-2001, 01:47 PM
My jetta suffered a similar problem with acid rain pitting at the dealership. I could notice the pits under multiple forms of lightning and I consulted professionals to determine what to do next. I learned that some of my pits were over .3 mil deep and could not be removed without sacrificing the integrity of the clear coat. Cutting the paint with a rotary would only remove the more shallow pits and minimize the appearance of the deeper ones. For my car, the risk of the rotary vs the minimal benefit helped me decide to try and `hide` the issue rather than remove it. I treated the car for the acid and alkaline problems and then coated with AIO (7424), 5 coats of SG, and 2 coats of Blitz. The pits are very hard to see now:).



I would try and evaluate the damage before cutting with FI2 or any of the other abrasives recommended around here. That will also help set expectations regarding the results.



Steve

ihetenyi
10-06-2001, 01:48 PM
Is it obvious that Ron was the one that helped me evaluate my problem?

YoSteve
10-06-2001, 02:38 PM
yes steve, you obviously spoke the "ron" in your last post :)

ihetenyi
10-06-2001, 03:40 PM
yeah - "pulled a Ron" or "spoke a Ron" could become new autopia terminology...

Desertfox66
10-06-2001, 03:54 PM
I kinda thought that might be the case, thanks Ron for the input.



I told my friend the bad news. We`re going to try to make it as presentable as possible since he can`t afford a new paint job right now.

Ron Ketcham
10-06-2001, 04:12 PM
During the first 15 minutes of the two day PrepExcellence Trainning course at Automotive International, we introduce the students to the 4 basics of all professions.



Education

Knowledge

Diagnoistic Skills

Process/Procedure



Without these, we are all just peeing into the wind.



These are the processes that all professionals go through on the way to enlightenment, Grasshopper.



Ketch







:eek:

imported_theamcguy
10-06-2001, 04:32 PM
.3 mils eh? that`s qutie a bit when you think of toolmakers terms. Thats eleven thousandths of an inch. .011. A strain of hair is only 2 thou. .002. How thick is the clear normally??:confused:

Ron Ketcham
10-06-2001, 04:42 PM
Will vary by plant, model and material, but from a low on horizontal surface of 1.5 to 2 mil. Some apply an additional, but it does not provide additional protection, only depth of gloss.

Due to the clear being a polymer resin/catalized coating, only the top .5 mil has density and that is where the UV blockers are concentrated.

If you wish to see all the information on clears and various levels of the entire paint system, visit www.autoint.com and click onto Tech Tips section. Lots of tech photos with text to surf through.

Ketch

:up

ISLANDSBEST
10-07-2001, 03:43 AM
If your friend`s truck is continuously exposed to sap, a car cover is the only answer.

01GTCOUPE
10-07-2001, 02:58 PM
Ron,



As part of a professional`s keys to enlightenment, you might also add this adage, which we passed down in our medical training.



1. Watch One

2. Do One

3. Teach One



In other words, if you really want to know something, try teaching it to someone else.

Ron Ketcham
10-07-2001, 03:19 PM
After almost 50 years of doing this stuff, I am still amazed how much I learn by teaching.



It creates questions in one`s mind, as you go through the teaching of the processes.



Like, why didn`t I see that if this was done here, it would change what happens there.



But, unless one follows the first four basics, they never get to the higher level of diagnoistic abilities, just keep waiting for someone else to give them a "simple" answer.



I sometimes think that this attitude is due to the advertising community. "Just give them enough to make them want to spend money, don`t question the whys or the whatfors."



As I have seen alot of, most don`t want facts, they want easy , let them off the hook answers, that don`t make them think.



Just a couple of thoughts.



Ketch



:eek:

ZL1Mark
02-13-2010, 09:12 AM
Todd states this a good polish particularly for light colors. Why for light colors as opposed to dark? Todd, or anyone? :)

imported_wfedwar
02-13-2010, 09:43 AM
All polishes leave some degree (fineness) of marring. This one leaves marring that might become visible as hazing on darker colors. It`s a tradeoff for the amount of cut you get. On darker colors, you may need a finer finishing polish that probably also doesn`t provide as much cut. In that case, you may be looking at two steps to remove the same type of swirls/scratches/imperfections.