How to detail around raised emblem

[Preachers Sheets]

I am going to make my fathers chevy express 2500 full size 12 passenger van look new (I hope).



It is a 98 model, has never ever been waxed and never has had any type of detailing. Has quite a bit of bad swirl marks. All I need to do is get alot of sleep, eat alot of carbs and get ready!



This is my plan:



wash

3m rubbing compound #39002

3m swirl mrk remover #39009

klasse all-in-one

klasse sealent

blitz (if I want to, doubt it would happen)



interior vacumn

clean vinyl

303 the vinyl

windows (man theres alot of glass on that thing)



This outta be fun, say a few prayers for me :-) Good thing I had a porter cable.

[SuperBee364]

Lucky you... A lot of windows. Arghh. I find those the hardest thing to get right. But never stop till I do.

Try some zaino on that bus. It should take you half the time as it just wipes right off not to mention you`ll never have to strip anything in the future. That alone should save you mega time and energy. If not, good luck in your endevours.

[bmerjorge21]

I would just like to add my $.02 on this one. If the van has never been waxed then chances are that it isn`t very smooth. You will probably need to clay to receive optimum results. I`d definitely try the SMR Glaze before the rubbing compound as the general rule is to work from least to most aggresive. The SMR will proabably not cut it though. Also, I don`t know if I`d even bother with the AIO as the paint should be thoroughly clean when you get to this step. Definitely Blitz it man!!! The bumpers must be chrome, no?? What are your plans for them? Where do you live in MA?? Are you like me that says I live in Boston, but I really live in the `burbs. I just say Boston because everyone knows where that is. Good luck!!;)

[Preachers Sheets]

It may sound weird but I have this Rain-X stuff clean glass and chrome, I know I know, it sounds dorky but I used it on chrome and wow! it really really cleans it, I am talking squeaky clean and with some sun it is kind of too bright on your eyes.



I live in Southie (south boston), have been here my whole life. If you know that much about detailing give me a call at 18774024630 some time and maybe I could help you out with your car or something. No one around here is really into this stuff so I wouldnt mind meeting a fellow detailer.

[Dave N]

Be sure to take some "before" and "after" pics!!!

[Preachers Sheets]

Good idea, my parents went to college a few years back for a photography course so they can probaly get a few really good pictures of the damage...

[Preachers Sheets]

by the way: my buddy has a 1999 TRD supercharged toyta tacoma... I like the quad cam 3.4 pumping out 190 hp and 245 torque if I am correct, you`ve got yourself a nice truck man.

[bmerjorge21]

<blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >

<em class=`bbc`>Originally posted by joed1228 [/i]
<strong class=`bbc`> I live in Southie (south boston), have been here my whole life. If you know that much about detailing give me a call at 18774024630 some time and maybe I could help you out with your car or something. No one around here is really into this stuff so I wouldnt mind meeting a fellow detailer. [/b]</blockquote>
Cool!! So you do live in the city. I live on the North Shore, but now I am on the South Shore (New Bedford area). Totally agree with you, Bostonians are definitely not into detailing!!

[hook]

<blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >

<em class=`bbc`>Originally posted by Dave C. [/i]
<strong class=`bbc`> I`d definitely try the SMR Glaze before the rubbing compound as the general rule is to work from least to most aggresive. The SMR will proabably not cut it though. [/b]</blockquote>
EDIT: As soon as I reread the quote, the lightbulb went off. depends on what you`re doing whether you go from least aggressive to most aggressive or vice-versa.

When trying to remove imprefections, the idea is to use the least aggressive possible. Least to most aggressive until you get whatever it is removed. But then you need to work back to the least aggressive to remove any marring you`ve created.

In this case, it sounds as if it`s already been determined that the 39002 (Perfect It II fine Cut Rubbing Compound) is needed. So order of application would bemost aggressive to least aggressive. The FCRC is more aggressive than the SMR, so the SMR is needed after to remove any fine marring (hazing) caused by the FCRC. And then the AIO (in this case, but could be cleaner wax, other fine polish)can make anything left by the SMR even smaller.

Side note, I`ve been using both 39009 and 39002. I have found that neither cause hazing on the dark paints on my cars, and have begun reaching for the Perfect It II Fine Cut more than the SMR, since it gets done in one pass what the SMR has been taking me two or three. This is by hand.


blue skies,
Andy

[boywonder]

<blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >

<em class=`bbc`>Originally posted by joed1228 [/i]
<strong class=`bbc`>I am going to make my fathers chevy express 2500 full size 12 passenger van look new (I hope).

It is a 98 model, has never ever been waxed and never has had any type of detailing. Has quite a bit of bad swirl marks. All I need to do is get alot of sleep, eat alot of carbs and get ready!

This is my plan:

wash
3m rubbing compound #39002
3m swirl mrk remover #39009
klasse all-in-one
klasse sealent
blitz (if I want to, doubt it would happen)

interior vacumn
clean vinyl
303 the vinyl
windows (man theres alot of glass on that thing)

This outta be fun, say a few prayers for me :-) Good thing I had a porter cable. [/b]</blockquote>
You have a pretty good plan of attack except you need to add a good claying to the mix. It`s a possibility this vehicle might have a ton of bonded contaminants in the paint.

I have a 1999 Navigator to detail soon and that joker is going to be a rough project.

My attack plan on it is:

Wash with Dawn
Clean tires, wheels, and running boards with EF HI
Dry using a Chamois or California Water Blade
Clay using a Mother`s clay bar
3M SMR since this truck has a lot of swirl marks
Klasse AIO (2x)
Klasse Sealant Glaze (2x)

Interior attack plans are:

Diluted EF HI for dash and other vinyl
Lexol Leather cleaner and Conditioner for the seats
Vacuum using my trusty shop vac (Which reminds me, I need an extension hose)
Clean the glass using Stoner`s and newspaper

Optional:
Polish the chrome around the grille and backup lights
Polish the taillights


Then on top of that, I have my Maxima, a friend`s 1998 Altima, and possibly a 1980 Mercedes 450SL Convertible to deal with.

[Preachers Sheets]

Hey PrinzII, good thing you bought up the clay, I would like to tell you what I think about it ........ I don`t use it. They way I see it is it costs 20.00 (I am not worried about the money) and it does the same job as the polish. I have used clay once and prior to that I was always just using polish and I said to myself "I am just polishing my car in a different method".



I am able to take out swirl marks and contaminets with one product, almost like killing two birds with one stone (as long as they dont fall on my car).



Anyone else think the same as me? Polish is a liquid clay bar that removes scratches.

[bmerjorge21]

I`d have to disagree with you on this one!! Claying in my opinion makes the surface smoother than any polish could.

[Preachers Sheets]

I don`t know, maybe it is just because the cars I detail are not all that bad. I bought a 1999 Camaro SS that had never been detailed but garaged and the clay vs polish had no difference. Oh well, guess you only need the clay if the car is in really bad shape.



I think to a certian degree clay is an overkill product for most newer, clean, maintained cars.

[bmerjorge21]

<blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >

<em class=`bbc`>Originally posted by joed1228 [/i]
<strong class=`bbc`> I think to a certian degree clay is an overkill product for most newer, clean, maintained cars. [/b]</blockquote>I can agree with that!!

[Cybercowboy]

The process of claying will pick up and remove embedded paint contaminants. Polishing will move the contaminants around (possibly) and cause additional damage. Even brand new paint jobs will very likely have significant amounts of rail dust or industrial fallout embedded in the nice, fresh paint.



Not that I`m an expert, but I think it makes sense to ensure that the paint is as free of debris as possible before taking a random-orbit polisher to bare paint. :cool: