What are these two yellow foams?

[harrybar]

Hi all:



I just found this wonderful site not long ago and this is the first time I post question here, please bear with me if my questions sound boring.



I have read a lot about Klasse and Zaino at this site but still have some questions, I hope to have some insights before I place the order.



My question:

1. I understand that I need to wait 12-24 hrs between 2 application of Zaino. I have only one car and need it for daily commute. Do I need to wash the car before every application? Is Klasse+wax the better option in this case?



2. It seems Klasse doesn`t work very well on removing scratchs and swirls, is Z5 better on the job? How does Z5 compare with other brands?



3. Has anyone used PS27 scratch remover? Do I still need to use some buff/polish product after the scratch remover? If so, what brand will be good for hand work?



Thank you for any advice!



Matchbox

[BradE]

If the car does not get very dirty between applications of Zaino, then you could just QD it. But, if it get somewhat dirty, then you should wash it before applying anymore layers of Zaino. Many, myself included, think you should let the Klasse cure for 24 hours as well so that you get the full layering effect.



I use both products (Zaino and Klasse) and Klasse does not do much to hide swirl marks or scratches. Zaino Z5 does a great job. Zaino Z5 does not "remove" the swirls and scratches, it just fills them. You should try to remove as many swirls and scratches as you can before applying either product. You will have to use an abrasive compound to remove the marks. You can search the archives about how to properly remove the swirls, and which products would be best to suit your specific needs.

[harrybar]

Thank you very much, ShowroomLincoln.



One more question: once I apply Klasse or Zaino at spring/fall, what should I use to wash and shine the car monthly before the next application? What QD stands for?



Thank you again.

[Don2000g]

Hey Matchbox. I also use both products and I would have to disagree a bit with my fellow Autopian. The Z-5 does not do a great job of filling in swirls in my opinion. It is very very mild stuff. Often times you need to apply several layers of this stuff to get the results that you want. Many regulars here have also expanded a bit on this notion. It is NOT A CURE ALL END ALL. Sorry but that`s true.



Secondly, a few of the senior members here have addressed the fact that the Klasse Sealant Glaze does hide swirls up a bit. Andre, a well-respected member here has gone on to say the same. If you have some bad swirls or even medium or moderate ones, then the main thing that you need to do is to address the swirls first. Two very good products for this task is 3M Finesse It 2 or even the 3M Swirl Mark Remover. Both do the job pretty satisfactorily, with the Finesse It 2 being slightly more aggressive. I wouldn`t worry about using these products on new cars. Many members here do so and even our most respected member of all, Brad B. does so on his newer cars. Both products are perfectly safe if used by hand.



As for QD, it stands for quick detailing. It`s a type of "spray wax" that helps you remove light dust safely from your car. This product can also be used to remove bird droppings and bug debris. Practically everyone on this forum uses one form or brand of quick detailer. Both products are certainly fine to use. There`s a little bit more of a follwing for Klasse here but again both products should give you great results. And in my opinion, it would be best to ALWAYS wash your car before applying any type of wax, sealant, Zaino, etc... You want to make sure that your car`s surface is as clean as possible. Any light debris or dirt that you could have missed with the quick detailer will get on your application pad and cause all sorts of light scratches and or swirls on your vehicle. So please wash before doing any applications of a product. Don`t take chances. Hope this helps. Laters.

[BradE]

matchbox,



What type of wash you use can depend on which system you are using. For Zaino, I would use Z7. For Klasse, I use Meguiars Gold Class Wash. The Meguiars is a great wash, and you can get it for $9.99/gallon at Target.



Good Luck!!

[harrybar]

Thanks a lot for all the helps, but still need a little bit more ... :}



1. I plan to use something a little bit aggressive than swirl remover at first. Don2000g mentioned 3M Finesse-it 2 would work safely by hand, but I found from 3M website this one is suggested for machine use. Also I saw somewhere that 3M Perfect-it 2 rubbing compound works pretty well on this purpose. Any hint on which one I should go for?



2. After I apply the above (either one), do I need to wash the car before I apply the swirl remover?



Thanks a lot again!

[harrybar]

One more question:



If I use Klasse AIO, SG then wax, do I need to wash away the wax before I use any QD product? Will Klasse SG be gone after the wash?

[imported_gewb]

SG will not wash away. In fact build up layers of SG over the course of days or weeks before you use a carnauba topper. I’m on my 3rd coat of SG and find it does have <em class=`bbc`>some[/i] filling capabilities for micro-marring and minor swirling as Don mentioned. If you end using a wax topper use a QD with carnauba in it like Clear Pearl or Showoff. Finesse-it 2 has cutting power used by hand, start off with a milder product first, you can always go harsher.

[BradE]

I would follow Don`s advise and go with the Finesse It II. Even though is says for machine use, most use it by hand. Especially if you have never used it before, by hand is the safest method.



You put the abrasives on BEFORE you apply either Zaino or Klasse. Since swirl removers are abrasive, they will remove Klasse or Zaino.



No, you do not need to remove the wax before you use a QD. Washing your car will NOT remove Klasse or Zaino. Both Klasse and Zaino should last 6 months with no problem.

[Don2000g]

Showroom is right. Most of us use the Finesse It 2 by hand with very good results. You may have to go over an area two times or so but it most certainly works. Our most experienced and respected detailer here, Brad B. often uses Finesse It 2 by hand with no problems. Laters.

[hook]

<blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >

<em class=`bbc`>Originally posted by matchbox [/i]
<strong class=`bbc`>1. I plan to use something a little bit aggressive than swirl remover at first. Don2000g mentioned 3M Finesse-it 2 would work safely by hand, but I found from 3M website this one is suggested for machine use. Also I saw somewhere that 3M Perfect-it 2 rubbing compound works pretty well on this purpose. Any hint on which one I should go for?
[/b]</blockquote>
I, too, noticed the "recommended for machine use" for the Finesse-It II product when I was looking for a solution to mild/medium swirling introduced by a dealer. This was before I found this forum.

The folks at 3M say that a machine is recommended for the Finesse-It because the compounds used in it require the heat to properly break down the way they`re supposed to, and that hand use can`t generate that heat. This may be why some people have reported mild hazing using Finesse-It; the compounds aren`t breaking down into finer and finer particles.

I`ve used both the Swirl Mark Remover (39009) and Perfect-It II Fine Cut Rubbing Compound (39002). The SMR is good for very mild swirls. The Perfect-It FCRC works great, and I find I use it now more than the SMR. It removes swirls with one or two passed that the SMR would require 4 or more. I also used it to remove hazing caused by wet sanding (took two passes). I was surprised, it`s not nearly as abrasive as I`d expected.

Also, I`ve experienced no hazing with either products on either of my cars, one is very dark green (almost black), the other is a dark metallic blue.

Blue Skies,
Andy

[imported_wfedwar]

I have two yellow foam pads, both made by LC. The first one I got a few years ago from some clearance at either PAC or Autogeek. I can`t remember. It`s one of the older VC style pads. It`s yellow, but not all that stiff (somewhere between orange and white) and has super small pores for an "aggressive" pad. The pores are much smaller than the yellow 6.5" Hi-gloss CCS pad I got from PAC. These two yellow pads are compared in the first pic below. In the second pic, you can see the pores in the VC yellow pad are roughly the same size as a red CCS pad.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o111/wfedwar/Misc%20auto%20pics/IMG_3251.jpg
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o111/wfedwar/Misc%20auto%20pics/IMG_3252.jpg

The reason I`m interested is that I like the foam in the VC pad much better. It cuts roughly the same as the yellow CCS, but finishes much better. The yellow CCS pad is pretty nasty--I only use it on glass. It`s like those yellow bug scrubbers. Any insight? Is this small-pore yellow foam available anywhere anymore? CMA are you listening? You guys seem to have a special relationship with LC. It might be worth your time to check into this and maybe upgrade your yellow foam offering.

[Todd@RUPES]

Do the Hi-Gloss CCS pad (rough foam) also have the blue backing/beveled edges?

LC has used several different foams through out their history. The VC pads tended to be made from a very `fine` version of the yellow foam, as you noted. I know that LC switched to a very large pore (low PPI) yellow foam for a while, that was more like a scotch-brite pad for a short while. I have several of these pads from another retailer (about 3 years old) that have this open foam. I was unaware that Hi-Gloss Pads where ever manufacturered with this foam.

The current LC yellow foam feels inbetween the old VC foam and the CCS foam you have, erring more toward the VC foam (finer). It is the most aggressive of the three yellow foams that I have used and finishes on par with the older VC foam.

[imported_wfedwar]

Do the Hi-Gloss CCS pad (rough foam) also have the blue backing/beveled edges?

The CCS pad has the blue foam constant pressure layer and a white velcro with blue writing. It says CCS-65Y. This pad is probably only a couple of years old. I`ll attach a pic of the back of the pad after I get my camera charged back up.

So the new yellow pads aren`t this coarse material? Would that apply to all the CCS, flat, OEM variations? As far as pad-induced hazing, how would the current yellow compare to PFW? The most aggressive pad I currently use is orange CCS. If I need to step up in cut, what would be a good option (assuming I`m using M105 on hard paint). I figure my options are newer yellow, PFW, or purple in the kompressor style. TIA.

[imported_wfedwar]

pic of back:

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o111/wfedwar/Misc%20auto%20pics/IMG_3253.jpg