Got Makita?

[old_gonzo]

If you have used this product, what did you think about it? Curious as it is on sale at an auto detailing site. Thanks in advance. :)

[KR CoolShine]

I have used it. Not since I got Crystal Mist and Mt towels, though.



It`s a bit thicker than CM. I had it streak once or twice while buffing.



It seems very slick and looks good, though.



I have to QD tonight (in the heat!). I`ll try both CM and FG side by side and let you know.

[old_gonzo]

Thanks for your efforts. What color car will you be applying it to? I wasn`t sure if the Field Glaze contained carnauba or not; since you have the bottle handy, are you able to tell? Thanks.

[Don2000g]

It does have carnauba in it.

[old_gonzo]

Curious - have you tried this product before? Thanks.

[KR CoolShine]

Don is right as always. :)



Label says:



Zymol Field Glaze Liquid Carnauba



Back label says:



ZFG is a no-silicone, Carnauba Milk srpay wax designed to eleminate (sic) the bond between dust and foreign material while enhancing the existing wax shine.



Oh, both my cars are British Racing Green



And, I did not QD tonight. Had to wash instead (at 9:00)after driving through a brief rain shower. 92 degrees, high humidity, smog alert -- acid rain heaven.

[Ron Ketcham]

Quick Detailers will not stop the potential of "etching", sorry.



Ozone is a more active "oxidizer" than the oxygen molecule on water. Just like when washing you clothes, add heat and moisture, you start the reactive chain of events.



Wash vehicles that are in a high ozone enviorment and high heat, with a non caustic carwash shampoo, allow it stay or set on the paint suface for 3 to 5 minutes or even longer.



The high solid clearcoat will absorb this solution into the porosity of the clear, this will neutralize any of the acids that may have penetrated into the substrate,(resin system-binder/film former) and render them harmless.



Then, once you have rinsed and dryed the vehicle`s paint, go ahead and apply a QD if you wish (most are just alcohol and water).



That alcohol will "pull" some of the water out of the substrate. It is a "drying agent", but will not provide any sacrifical protection to your clear.



Dealerships uses of "di-water", "reverse osmosis" water washes of lot inventory actually contributes more to "etching" of clears than if they let them alone.



The old rule of chemistry is still in effect, " never add water to acids, only acid to water".



Acids(oxides/dioxides) when dry will not do much, if any damage, but add an oxidizer(water-oxygen molecules) and the corossive eating of the clearcoat starts.

[jrt81]

First of all, Big Thanks to Todd, Angelo and all of you guys for your tips & views.

Recently, I was able to borrow a Makita 9227 rotary. I like it! In fact I liked it a lot that I bought one! A friend hooked me up with a store and I got a decent deal with it.
The weight didn`t bother me much, and I don`t think it will because I won`t be using it everyday. I just like the feel and the smoothness of the machine.

I tried it on the front of the Accord, and it did take out most water spots on the hood & front fenders. I only went as high as 1000 rpm (for a brief moment), and mostly used the 600rpm speed.

One thing I experienced is some occasional pad hopping. I was using the Tangerine Hydrotechs with P203s. What could have caused the hopping?

Are hydrotechs good choice for the rotary? or should I go with the Flats or Hi-Gloss?

Thanks once again for all your inputs. :)

[imported_Flash Gordon]

One thing I experienced is some occasional pad hopping. I was using the Tangerine Hydrotechs with P203s. What could have caused the hopping?



Spritz the pad with h2o, and apply more pressure

[jrt81]

Thanks!

I will do that when I do the side(s).

[imported_broker99]

you will love it.

[dennn]

First of all, Big Thanks to Todd, Angelo and all of you guys for your tips & views.

Recently, I was able to borrow a Makita 9227 rotary. I like it! In fact I liked it a lot that I bought one! A friend hooked me up with a store and I got a decent deal with it.
The weight didn`t bother me much, and I don`t think it will because I won`t be using it everyday. I just like the feel and the smoothness of the machine.

I tried it on the front of the Accord, and it did take out most water spots on the hood & front fenders. I only went as high as 1000 rpm (for a brief moment), and mostly used the 600rpm speed.

One thing I experienced is some occasional pad hopping. I was using the Tangerine Hydrotechs with P203s. What could have caused the hopping?

Are hydrotechs good choice for the rotary? or should I go with the Flats or Hi-Gloss?

Thanks once again for all your inputs. :)

Hi,

You shouldn`t have to be afraid to go higher than 1000rpm. At 600rpm, it barely does anything, in my opinion. With the advanced technology medium grade polishes and high quality foam pads, holograms and swirl marks is quite rare.

Most of the paint strike through, I have read, occur with the heavy grade compounds (think M85) and heavy cutting wool pads at really high speeds. Even with a very cutting foam pad, you have to literally apply a lot of pressure on the same spot for 20 seconds in order to go through the paint. But you wouldn`t even do that with a dual action polisher anyway, right. Compounds like #105 are so fine and cut so well that it doesn`t induce a lot of scouring and swirls and you shouldn`t need apply too much pressure for adequate correction. #105 at the right speed, pressure, and pad acts like a medium grade polish.

I do find the LC orange pads hop like crazy with both DA and rotary. The moderator suggested priming the pad with the product itself to reduce it. I am not sure if the hydrotech pads hop as much, but basically most of the "coarse" feeling pads would hop because they grab to the surface instead of smoothly rotating on it. Meguiar`s cutting pad doesn`t hop as much if hopping is a real concern for you.

I would suggest high-gloss pads over hydrotech. The fact that the hydrotech only comes in two variants makes it harder to fine tune the right cutting power for the job, in my opinion.

[jrt81]

Thanks dennn.

My paint is in relatively good condition, i.e. just minor swirl marks. No need for more abrasaive compounds yet. In fact, I think with the rotary, I think I can tackle minor defects with some mild polish. The most abrasive polish I have is the P203s.

You have a point with the pads, I may get some hi gloss pads on the next sale!

[jrt81]

you will love it.

Yup!

I can`t wait to do the sides of the Accord! :smile:

[jrt81]

dennn,

I think the priming issue may have been a factor. I probably didn`t prime the Tangerine pad enough.

When I tackle some minor swirls on the sides and trunk, I will bump the speed up.

I will try to post the results of my detail soon.