toyo dealer prep

[believe58]

I tried using Finesse It to remove some light scratch/swirl marks on a lapis blue boxster. Unfortunately it seems to be causing heavy hazing even after using Pinnacle Paint Cleanser to try and remove the hazing. I tried 3M Swirl Mark Remover and it seems to be doing a better job.

Both products were applied by hand with terry foam pads. Am I doing something wrong with the Finesse It (applying too much?)or is it hazing because of the dark colour of my car? The car is new and was delivered with the slight marks probably put there by the dealer. Any advice on how best to proceed? I want to get the paint as perfect as possible before applying Klasse.

Cheers



Mark (Scotland)

[Michael H]

Hazing is always easy to see on a dark car. I have a similar problem on my black car. So I always use a polish after Finnesse It to remove the hazing. As Finnesse It cuts more (ie it is more abrasive) and you are just seeing the results.



Klasse can also hide finer marks once applied. You will NEVER remove all scraches, it is about reducing their size and number.

[JasonC8301]

I only use foam pads to apply 3M Finesse It II not the terry cloth covered ones. Well a foam pad on the PC helps.





Later

Jason

[old_gonzo]

I have experienced the same exact thing - not to worry. The hazing that you see is actually normal for the products that you are speaking of. I have had significant hazing with the Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion and the 3M Swirl Mark Remover (#39009) for dark cars as well. After I applied the PPCL, I stood back and could really see the hazing. While I could literally feel that it had done a very nice job in cleaning the paint, the hazing seems to be an (unfortunate) by-product. In a sense, the hazing is caused by micro-marring of the surface.



Anyway, the bright side is, after applying the PPCL, I applied 2 coats of Klasse AIO and the hazing was completely removed, leaving a VERY clear finish. My advice to you is to now go over the areas twice with the Klasse AIO and you should really be haze free. (I too apply these types of products with a terry covered foam pad, although most on the Forum prefer bare foam. I do use bare foam for the Sealant Glaze and Blitz wax, but terry covered for the more abrasive products. Just my preference.)Hope this helps you out.

[imported_gewb]

I have the same problem on our pearl ridge blue Forester. When I first detailed the car I used Finesse-it ][, followed by 3M Imperial hand glaze and Blitz. Looked great but after joining this forum I decided I needed to clay and wanted to give Klasse AOI & SG a shot. Clayed, FI2 with foam applicator, AOI/SG. Looked really good except when you walk around the car the paint looked dull from certain angles and if the light hits it just so you can see the marks from the Finesse-it. I think the Imperial hand glaze had been filling these marks before.



I know others like Brad have had great success with FI2 hand applications but either this particular color is especially unforgiving or the technique is beyond my knowledge or skill. I have a PC7424 on the way and hopefully this will be my savior. My question is whether I should use the PC with FI2 or go up to something finer to take out the FI2 hazing?



Good luck getting the Boxster squared away, I’ll post follow up results in this thread or another I’m sure…



Adam

[old_gonzo]

You are correct about the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze - it does not remove imperfections, only fills them in until the next rain storm or washing. Not really effective for long term effectiveness.



A question for you: Did I understand you correctly - you stated that you still have hazing after using the AIO over the FI2?

[old_gonzo]

I would not say that the hazing needs to be "covered up", in as much as it needs to be removed. In my experience, on rather dark paint, the PPCL did leave a haze - something that you will find with many products. The Klasse AIO was extremely helpful it the removal of this haze. The PPCL did an excellent job of cleaning the paint, but the haze needed to be removed.



So, in agreement with Michael H., a polish is typically used following a product that does produce hazing. Hope this makes sense.

[imported_gewb]

I was typing my reply while you posted yours. It’s good that you suggested that Salmoor try one or two coats of AIO. But yes, in my case I see the hazing after AIO but only from certain angles and you can actually see the micro marring when the sun hits the car just so.



It’s my wife’s daily driver and she thinks it looks great as does anyone else I ask. But I think forum members would spot it :)



Adam

[old_gonzo]

but how many coats of the AIO did you apply to the hazed areas?

[imported_gewb]

I did two coats of AIO. I just looked at my photos and the one of my hood kinda demonstrates what I`m talking about. In the picture of the hood you can see how the right side looks kinda dull. Now the mica in the paint makes it change it’s appearance as angles change so I don’t know if the picture is a coincidence or is actually capturing the hazing, regardless it helps me convey what’s going on….


Adam

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1737999&a=13371188&f=0 (`http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1737999&a=13371188&f=0`)

[old_gonzo]

Actually, I did not use the SMR at the same time as the PPCL - if that clears it up a little. The hazing that I was able to remove with the AIO was from the PPCL only.



And if I had to take a guess at how the AIO actually "addressed" the hazing, I would say that it removed it and didn`t cover it. The very nature of applying the products that we do causes micro-marring in and of itself. We are trying to "level" the paint surface. The "trick" is to address this micro-marring by applying subsequent products that are gradually less and less abrasive. As Michael H. said, applying a polish after the FI2 to remove the hazing. So.....if you were to think of it in those terms, the PPCL is actually a little more aggressive than the AIO, even though the the PPCL is rather mild.



Don`t let this discouraged you from trying these products or new things. I had very nice results with the PPCL/AIO/SG.



I hope that this helps. I am not sure that I will be checking this site again until mid-morning tomorrow, so forgive me if I do not respond until then. :)

[old_gonzo]

I`m really sorry, but I pulled up your photos twice and I am not able to see what you are talking about. I believe you that it is there, but from the photo I am not able to tell.



You may want to start a brand new thread in regard to this problem - but bring it to the attention of Brad B. as he uses the Finesse It2 on a regular basis and may be able to shed some light on your situation.



I wish that I could offer you a little more advice, but I have not experienced the same situation, and would not want to offer "untested" advice. I am curious on how you make out with this, though. Keep us posted.

[imported_gewb]

Didn’t mean to pull this thread’s attention towards me but I just though I might have a similar thing going on as Salamoor. I definitely think it’s worthwhile for you to try two coats of AIO Salamoor, if just in a test area. The hazing in my case may just be a product of the mica in the paint as it just looks different from various angles and light. It’s the micro-marring that I’m really concerned about and the photos don’t show that. I think the PC7424 should help me in this regard, though I`m sure with the proper technique and skill it could be done by hand.





Adam

[old_gonzo]

It`s interesting - I`m not exactly sure on how to judge abrasiveness, (possibly the micro-marring left behind) I can only comment on what my personal experiences have been.

When you rub both the PPCL and the AIO (separately) between your fingers, the PPCL feels (very) slightly less smooth than the AIO, yet the AIO has a stronger chemical/cleaner smell to it.



I would say experiment on a panel and see what your results are. I would be interested to know what your findings are.

[imported_glfahlc]

my bro just bought a new toyo avalon and the dealer wants to do some sort of prep that costs $600 and they promise him he`ll never have to wax the car again for as long as he owns it. who has heard of it and does it really work?